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To this 

Prize Essay 



Practical, Sanitary and Economic Cooking, 

By Mrs. Mary Hinman Abel, 

Was awarded first prize among seventy competitors by the 

AMERICAN PUBLIC HEALTH ASSOCIATION, 

It was offered to the government for gratuitous distribution among 
the military and naval organizations and the offer has been accepted. 
Although it was principally written for the use of families, it is believed 
that much of the information contained therein would be practical and 
beneficial to our brave soldiers and. sailors. In order to make it as useful 
as possible, Mrs. Abel, has, with the advice of Mrs. E. H. Richards (Pro- 
fessor of Chemistry of Food, Institute of Technology, Boston) kindly 
written a few prefatory pages relating to the preparation of articles of 
food furnished as rations by the government. Because of the desire to 
carry out the offer cf distribution at as early a date as possible the time 
of the author for doing this work was very limited and it was not pos- 
sible to make this part as thorough and complete as it would have other- 
wise been, but it will undoubtedly prove a very practical addition for the 
purpose intended. : 

If some of the money which is often spent for articles which are not 
nutritious nor healthful, was paid to a company fund to which all con 
tributed, a much greater and more agreeable variety of palatable food 
could be obtained. 

To make the donation as beneficial as possible a 

SAVING AND INTEREST TABLE, 

of which large numbers have been distributed, is enclosed with the Essay. 
The writer has seen during and after the late Civil War the conditions 
and consequences of soldiers spending and of soldiers saving their moder- 
ate earnings and he sincerely desires to assist in inducing as many as pos- 
sible to save something for the future. 

He hopes that the table may be circulated and examined by the mem- 
bers of the organizations. That this may be done and that the essay be 
often consulted and that it may assist in bringing, even if only in a com- 
paratively small degree, comfort and health to the defenders of our now 
happily united country, is the sincere wish of one who is proud to be an 

American Veteran Soldier. 

i 



ARMY COOKERY. 



The ration issued to the U. S. army is more abundant, more varied 
and of better quality than that issued to the army of any other nation. 
It should therefore keep the men in health and strength, and if it fails to 
do so and to be palatable to the healthy appetite, the fault is in its 
preparation. 

A few suggestions as to the cooking of the soldier's ration are here 
offered. 

The garrison ration is so abundant that it cannot be wholly consumed 
and according to the liberal system of exchange of food the surplus can 
be exchanged in such a way as to give still greater variety. In an organ- 
ized camp this allows of excellent and varied cookery. But, the ration 
when on the march is much less varied and contains little or no fresh meat 
or soft bread. It requires therefore more skill on the part of the cook to 
render it palatable and nutritious. 

When the ration consists of salt pork and hard tack and a choice 
between beans, peas, rice and hominy, with tea and coffee and a few con- 
diments, how it is to be best prepared with limited time and with the 
simplest utensils, rests entirely with the cook. 

On the march the breakfast must be substantial as there can be often 
no other regular meal until night. The camp fires or the portable ovens 
must do their work over night in order to effect this. Only in this way 
can baked beans or bean soup be added to the bacon and hard tack, and 
this addition is necessary if the. meal is to afford proper nutrition for the 
day and if there is to be no other resource. Pea and bean meal will here 
find a place and are much preferable to whole beans. 

If there is an issue of fresh beef, the trimmings of what has been 
used the day before may be simmered with such vegetables and flavors as 
are at hand and thickened with hard tack broken in pieces. Such a soup 
or stew will be relished if well flavored. 

Corn meal mush cooked long and slowly becomes a well flavored aud 
nutritious food instead of being raw and irritating as it is if cooked hastily. 
If cooked stiff it may be moulded in cakes while yet warm, floured and 
fried in fat. Hominy and oat meal may be treated in the same way. 

Rice is an excellent breakfast dish and quickly cooked. It is relished 
with the addition of condensed milk or syrup. 

A Bill of Fare For Seven Days on the March, or at the Front 

is here suggested, in which, for reasons stated, only breakfasts and 
suppers are provided for. If dinners are possible, they can be arranged 
according to material and time at command. Coffee can for some days 
Ije changed for tea. 

For bills of fare at camp or garrison or on board ship, some of those 
suggested from pages 151 to 175 of the Essay, will prove useful. 



Sunday. Breakfast. 
Bean Soup, 
Corn Beef, 
Coffee, 
Hard Tack, 

Monday. Breakfast 

Corn Mush and Molasses, 

Coffee, 

Bacon in Batter. 

Tuesday. Breakfast. 

Hoe Cake, 

Stewed Beans with Prunes, 

Coffee. 

Wednesday. Breakfast. 

Pea Soup with Toasted Hard 

Tack, 
Coffee, 
Fried Bacon. 

Thursday. Breakfast. 
Boiled Bacon, 
Rice, 
Coffee. 

Friday. Breakfast. 

Baked Beans and Bacon, 
Coffee. 

Saturday. Breakfast. 
Hoe Cake, 
Pea Soup, 
Coffee, 
Boiled Pork. 



Supper. 
Fried Pork, 
Coffee, 
Plum Duff. 

Supper. 
Coffee, 
Fried Mush, 
Fried Bacon, 
Hard Tack Pudding. 

Supper. 
Rhode Island Pancakes, 
Coffee, 
Fried Bacon. 



Coffee, 

Hoe Cake, 

Cold Canned Beef. 

Supper. 
Pork and Potatoes, 
Coffee, 
Bean Meal Soup with Tomatoes. 

Supper. 
Rhode Island Pancakes, 
Coffee, 
Canned Salmon. 

Supper. 
Coffee, 

Fried Hominy and Molasses, 
Cold Boiled Pork. 



The meal, at the end of a day's march, must be often hastily prepared. 
It will then consist of fried pork, coffee and hard tack, or flour made into 
biscuits or pancakes with water and baking powder. Here whatever con- 
densed foods are furnished will be used to advantage. 



IMPORTANCE OF FLAVORING. 

When the food is to be made up of few materials, the variety that can 
be given by cooking in different ways and by the addition of different fla- 
vors is very important. 

The cook's stores should, if possible, contain vinegar, onions, toma- 
toes, dried fruits and pickles, which can be used to give character to the 
dishes. In the case of sugar, its food value, as well as its flavor, is to be 
considered. According to the result of late investigations carried on by the 



back of range. As soon as the grains are soft, turn out and eat with but- 
ter or fat meat. This is far better than the usual addition of sugar. 

In cooking rice, one object is to keep the grains dis- 
Second Method. tinct and ]ight TMs jg algQ attained by rapid ] y boiling 

the rice in many times its bulk of water for about twenty-five minutes, 
and then draining and drying out a little over the fire. This is a better 
way if a thin utensil like tin must be employed or if the fire is very hot. 
But rice thus cooked has somewhat less flavor and nutrition than when 
cooked with only the amount of water it should absorb. 

CORN MEAL. 

As used in the South, corn meal is most valuable in a meal that must 
be cooked with a simple outfit. Unlike wheaten flour, it requires neither 
yeast nor baking powder to lighten it. 

One quart corn meal, one teaspoon salt. Pour on this 
Hoe Cake. & scant quart of boiling water, mix well, and make out 

with the hands into thin cakes. Heat in a frying pan enough fat to 
nearly cover the cakes and fry brown on both sides. 

Stir, into four quarts of boiling salted water one quart 
Corn Mush. f corn mea ] ) sifting it slowly in that all may be scalded. 

It should cook slowly, well covered, for an hour, or better two hours. 
Rhode island (Manual for Army Cooks, page 1£1.) Mix well 

Pancakes. one quart of Iodian meal, one quart of rye flour, two 

large tablespoonfuls of melted shortening or butter; five tablespoonfuls 
of molasses, one tablespoonful of salt, one small teaspoonful of saleratus, 
one quart of water to make a stiff batter. Fry ten minutes as you would 
doughnuts. 

COFFEE. 

Coffee that must be kept for some time after roasting is much improved 
by being reheated in a pan before it is used. 



The following are extracts of opinions on Mrs. Abel's Essay on "Prac- 
tical Sanitary and Economic Cooking Adapted to Persons of Moderate and 
Small Means," from members of the American Public Health Association: 

Dr. Samuel W. Abbott, Wakefield, Mass. — Mrs. Abel's prize essay is 
the best work of its kind that has yet appeared in this country. It deals 
with the food question in a practical, intelligible way, and will prove a use- 
ful and welcome addition to every household library. It is in fact, a work- 
ing Manual, and a copy of it ought to form a part of every kitchen outfit 
in the land. 

Dr. A. W. Alyord, Battle Creek, Mich.— This is a remarkable book, 
Very seldom does an author have a whole field to herself and fill it so wisely. 

Prof. Edmund K. Angell, Derry, N. H.— From hasty examination of 
the work, it appears to be excellent. 

O. N. Archibald, Jamestown, K Dakota.— The above little work is a 
very valuable essay on the subjects treated, and will do a vast sight of good 
to the class it is intended to benefit. Iwould wish to see it in the hands of 
every citizen, and especially those of small means and without knowledge 
on this important part of our lives. 



Harry T. Bahmboh, M. D.. Pres't N. C Board of Health. Salem. N. C. 
—Am thorough;- — ith the little book. Shall try to introduce it 

-v throughout the State. 
Dr." Wil Bailey. Louisville. Ky. — The work is admin 
Dr. Hevry B. Baker. E American Public Health Association. 

— I consider it a verv useful hook to all classes of people 

B. F. Beaedsley. M. D.. Hartford, Conn.— S I am much 

1 with it. 
Dr. Jos. A. Beaudry. Montreal. — I deem the work a m >• 
addition to Doel .by. 

Fredk Becker, Clerm — The above-named little wo: 

marvel of usefulne^5 and should be found in every household. 

Dr. E. W. BlatchforL'. Chicago, 111.— The subject and mode o: 
ment admirable; calculated plish much good. Especially : 

at preset time. 
Dr. J:>o. Willis Brow; 9 . . U. S. ST., Washing 

sufficient, full, practical, interes ._■ tmentof the 
ject. and worthy of the commendation of the committee. 

J. G. Cabell. M. P.. Richmond. V i — 1: will prove very useful for 
many pu rpof i illy in Public Insdtv. i e large nun 

: ovided for and economy c - up in attractive 

C. W. Chancellor, M. D*. Baltimore, Md.— As a manual of D<: 
Bcon my liraWe, It treats of a subject which is wis 
process : introduction into the routine of gene: r pir- 

a-hing the young idea h-: - aentifi ; g li . 

than a cookery book or a rules and receipts. 

Walter H. Chapix - . M. D.. Springfield, Mass.— A valuable work. 

Dr. E. F. X. Cleveland, Dundeerill.— I will en 
plovers to purchase copies for their married em pic ta thtir 

Dr. Chas. E. Cole. Wauzeka, Wis— It is just what its title imr. 
N. B. Cole. Bloominvfam, ID. — Tli prize highly. I 

D: - - 

Dr. Chas. Wm. Coyee: admirable com- 

pendium on a very important subject for contributing to the well-being of 
the masses, and well adaptc LI ring the object in view. 

Prof. F. C. Curtis, Albany, N. I .—A _ id subject well treated, in 
concise form. 

Dr. J. P. Dake. Nashville, Tenn.— Tour committee of award did wisely 
in this case. The book comes up to the re 

H. C. Dabby. "Wilmot. Wis.— The si l read. 

H. H. Daub, M. D.. Caldwell, Tex.— I think it is a splendid work and 
no doubt do a great deal of good. 

Dr. S. H. Du — -en on the 

subject, and will do inestimable gcxxi if read by ihe people. 

Dr. Cyrus Shook, New York.— The w of its 

kind I have seen. T.s miss - - - in reality a very 

high one. and it fills it perfectly - it upon a'., 

with its production. 

Dr. W. H. El: S I la.— I am glad to be able to say that I 

think this work admirable. 

Delos Fall Albion. Mich.— This work must be the means of doing mu'-h 
good in teaching people how to live better and more cheaply. The wcrk 
will be of greatValue to me personally in the lectures on sanitary science. 



Dr. Chas. H. Fisher, Providence. R. I.— I am most favorably im- 
pressed with the high value of this little book as a practical manual of 
sanitary, economic and also scientific cooking. The correctness of scientific 
statement and the directness and clearness of scientific application in the 
grouping of the fundamental "food principles" in the various formulae for 
cooking, are most admirable. 

Dr. Charles James Fox, Surgeon General of the State, Willimautic, 
Conn. — A very valuable and interesting work. 

Dr. E. B. Frazer, Sec'y State Board of Health, Delaware. — The work 
is biief and to the point. Its value as an educator can hardly be computed 
in dollais and cents. It is a gem. 

Dr. Spencer M. Free, Bcachtree, Jefferson Co. Pa. — I am glad to say 
that the above is one of the finest works on the subject that I have had the 
•opportunity to examine. It should have a wide circulation. 

W. S. French, C. E., Agent and Clerk Board of Health, West Newton, 
Mass. — From the little study which I have been able to give to it it seems to 
justify the opinion of the Committee of Award. Its arrangement is ad- 
mirable and so clear that "he may read who runs'' and understand it. 

Dr. Wolcott Gibbs, Newport, R. I.— An admirable book which ought 
to be in every family. 

Dr. Albert L. Gihon, TJ. S. Naval Hospital, Brooklyn, N. Y. — Attrac- 
tive in appearance — neat and elegant in style— an admirable addition to 
.any library. 

Crosby" Gray, Esq., Municipal Hall, Pittsburgh, Pa. — An excellent 
work, which should be in the possession of every housekeeper. 

Wm. E. Griffiths, M. D. Brooklyn, N. Y. — Worthy of the prize. 

Dr. Junius M. Hall, Chicago, 111. — The work contains a great quantity 
of valuable information and I am greatly pleased with it. 

Dr. John B. Hamilton, U. S. Mar. Hospital Serv., Washington, D. C. — 
The essay is a good one and in my opinion should have a wide distribution. 

Dr. A. Hazlewood, Grand Rapids, Mich. — Like the essay very much; 
pleasing in the manner, and full of good ideas. 

William Heaps, Manufacturer, Muskegon, Mich. — A masterpiece. 
Will prove of incalcuable benefit to those "who read, mark, and learn." 

Dr. H. J. Herrick, Cleveland, O. — I am very much pleased with the 
clear and definite manner of presentation, as also the practical matter con- 
tained in the Prize Essay. It treats of a most important subject in Hygiene. 

Hon. Henry D. Holton, Brattleboro, Vt. — A most valuable book. 

Dr. Geo. Homan, St. Louis, Mo. — I think the essay is admirable both 
in scope and method. 

Dr. Carl H. Horsch, Dover, N. H. — I sincerely hope that the valuable 
and inexpensive essay will be in every house in the land. 

Alexander Hadden, M. D., New York City. — I have examined the 
book on Sanitary, Economic Cookery hastily, but sufficiently thorough to 
understand fully that it will be a useful manual in every intelligent house- 
hold, and an invaluable aid to physicians who look after the regimen of 
their patients. 

C. C. Hunt, Dixon, 111. — An exct»*ent exposition and treatment of the 
subjects considered. 

Ezra M. Hunt, M. D., Trenton, N. J. — I find the book of Mrs. Abel is 
a most valuable one, and adds new credit to the Lomb Prize Essays. It 
will be of great and wide-spread service. 

Dr. D. C. Jones, Member State Board of Health, Topeka, Kansas. — I 
am very much pleased with the clear and concise manner in which the 
author presents her views. 



Hon. J. M. Keating, Editor Memphis Commercial, Memphis, Tenm. 
— A scientific and practical work that would be of especial value ino 
classes, and that should be pushed as rapidly as is possible into general 
circulation. 

Prof. R. C. Kedzie, M. D., Prof, iu Agricultural College, Lansing, 
Mich. — I am much pleased with the book. It resembles a well-ordered, 
meal in that there is enough and not too much. The good cook is the- 
handmaid of good morals; there is no real civilization without her aid. 

Josiah F. Kennedy, A. M., M. D., Sec'y Iowa State Board of Health, 
Des Moines, Iowa. — I am much pleased with the work. It is eminently 
practical; scientific without being technical. The arrangement is excel- 
lent. The style is clear and terse. It is indeed a multum inparvo and as- 
a cook book I know none better — though many larger. 

Dr. P. H. Kretzschmar, Brooklyn, N. Y. 

So far as I have read the little work, I consider it very valuable, full 
of instructive matter. 

Benjamin Lee, M. D., Sec'y State Board of Health of Pennsylvania, 
Philadelphia, Pa. — The wanton waste which characterizes the provision- 
ing and cooking of the family of the American mechanic is only too well- 
known to students of social science. If this work could be brought into' 
such families, its simplicity and clearness could not fail to convince- 
the mothers and housekeepers of the advantage, both to the purses of 
their husbands and the health of their families, of a more careful study 
of the science of cooking and of the true values of foods. Money which 
is now recklessly squandered would be laid away against a rainy day, 
and many a dyspeptic pang would be prevented. It is much to be* 
desired that means should be taken to give this truly valuable book a 
wide circulation. 

Dr. E. R. Lewis, Kansas City, Mo.— I believe this little book will 
prove of much practical value to those who are fortunate enough to possess- 
it, and I believe its domain could well be extended to those of more than, 
moderate means. I would especially commend it to many of our American, 
hotels and restaurants. 

ChaunceyE. Low, M. D., Brooklyn, N.Y. — The work strikes me as prac- 
tical, containing much information that should be known to all of those 
who desire to study the sanitary and economic methods of preparing food. 

R. K MacDonnell, M. D., Montreal, P. Q.— A work that is certain 
to do a great deal of good. 

Jno. Edw. Mason, M. D., Washington, D. C— Have read the work,, 
find it first rate, especially the article on cooking meats. 

C. D. McDonald, Kansas City, Mo.— From the short time I have had to 
read and digest the subject matter I think it excellent. 

W. P. McLarey, Milwaukee, Wis.— An exceedingly valuable book. 

Dr. J. A. Mead, Pearlington, Miss.— Am well pleased with the book. 

Dr. Alfred Mercer, Syracuse, N. Y.— I have examined the above- 
work and am pleased with its scope and suggestions. 

C. Monjeau, Secretary and Manager of National Water Supply Co., 
Cincinnati, O. — The essay impresses me more favorably than anything of 
the kind I ever met with in any school. 

F. Montizambert, M. D., Quarantine Officer, Quebec, P. Q.— Inter- 
esting and valuable essay. 

Rob't Moore, C. E., St. Louis, Mo. — Seems to be very valuable. 

Emma W. Mooers, Arlington, Mass.— The book is invaluable,— it will 
bring harmony out of discord. Betterwork, clearer heads, and happier 
lives" will belong to the working people. 



D. P. Morgan, Chicago, 111. — From the cursory glance that I have made 
of the book I should consider it one of extreme usefulness, and the author 
deserves great credit for her labor. 

W. F. Morse, New York City. — Admirably sensible and compact in 
arrangement and statement. Thoroughly practical and well adapted for 
purposes required. 

E. M. Mosher, M. D., Brooklyn, N. Y. — It is clearly written, scientific, 
simple, well adapted to the needs of the people, both rich and poor. 

Dr. A. Nash, Joliet, 111. — I am very much pleased with the essay of 
Mrs. M. H. Abel. 

Dr. Wm. K. Newton, Paterson, N. J. — A most excellent work. 

Frank P. Norbury, M. D., Jacksonville, 111. — An intensely interesting 
essay, full of practical facts worthy the consideration of all who "eat to 
live." The application of physiological principles is aptly set forth and 
well adapted for the use to which these health essays are intended. 

Dr. Wm. Oldright, Toronto, Ont. — Think it conveys a large amount 
of useful, practical information, very much needed by our housekeepers, 
in a concise and pleasant manner. 

II. S. Orne, M. D., Los Angeles, Cal. — I have examined the copy of 
"Sanitary and Economic Cooking," and find it an excellent book on the 
subject, and just what is needed for the people. 

Henry E. Pellew, Esq., Washington, D. C. — A very practical code of 
instructions in the preparation of food in the households of the majority 
in this country. 

Dr. C. O. Probst, Columbus, O.— I have read the above work With 
much interest, and am much pleased with it, I consider it one of the best of 
the series and wish we were able to place one in each household in our State. 

J. W. Redden, M. D., Topeka, Kan., Sec'y Kansas State Board of 
Health. — This is a most admirable work; well adapted to the purposes 
designed. It is full of valuable information and should be in every 
family. May its demand be equal to its merits. 

Dr. James E. Reeves, Chattanooga, Tenn. — 1 am delighted with the 
work. Its value will be the happiness and saving of thousands of persons 
who will never see the book. 

R. H. Reid, Mansfield, Ohio.— Good. 

Dr. B. O. Reynolds, Lake Geneva, Wis.— A valuable little Essay, 
especially calculated to benefit the poor and middle classes (financially 
speaking) of American society. 

Mrs. Ellen H. Richards," S. B., A. M., Instructor in Sanitary Chemis- 
try, Mass. Institute of Technology, Boston, Mass. — It is not often that we 
find so much real knowledge, or the result of so much study condensed 
into one little volume of 175 pages. It is a truly fortunate circumstance 
that an American mother and housekeeper should have the great oppor- 
tunity, and with the opportunity the desire and ability to weave the scien- 
tific knowledge of the laboratory into the daily food of the family. The 
great value of the little book lies in the clear statement of certain principles 
which lie at the foundation of all food preparation; so that if the particular 
recipe is not available for the housewife she may by a little study learn how 
to adapt what she has to the best advantage. 

F. C. Robinson, Brunswick, Me. — I am exceedingly pleased with the 
work. It cannot be too widely circulated. 

F. J. Rogers, M. D. Stamford, Ct.— Sensible and practical. An excel- 
lent work. 
Dr. H. W. Rose, Westerly, R. I.— An excellent work. 
J. B. Rozier, Esq., Memphis, Tenn. — Highly appreciated. 



A. R Rui, Springfield, Mass. — Of inestimable value, especially to young 
housekeepers. 

D. A. Sargent, M. D., Cambridge, Mass. — An excellent treatise on the 
subject. 

Chas. H. Shepard, M. D., 81 Columbia Heights, Brooklyn, N. Y. — 
Exceedingly interested in this book. Will prove valuable in many ways. 

Dr. J. H. Sears, Waco, Tex. —Have not had time to examine critically, 
but so far as examined, very much pleased and think it entitled to the prize. 

Joel W. Smith, M. D., Charles Citv, Iowa. — Without exception, the 
most valuable work of the kind in the English language— and I suspect in 
any language — not alone for the poor but for all classes. 

Dr. Joseph Spiegelhalter, St. Louis, Mo. — This is an excellent book. 

State Board op Health, Des Moines, Iowa. — Excellent. 

Dr. George M. Sternberg, U. S. A., Ex President Am. Pub. Health 
Ass'n., John Hopkins University, Baltimore, Md. — This essay, in which 
the results of scientific research and of practical experience are combined 
in an admirable way, should be in the hands of every housekeeper. 

Eug. F. Storke* M.D., Milwaukee, Wis. — I am much pleased with the 
book. 

Chas. Sutherland, U. S. A., Governor's Island. — As far as I havehad 
time to examine this book I believe it to be an excellent one for the object 
intended. 

Dr. G. B. Thornton, Memphis, Tenn. — From a hasty sketch lam sure 
it is worthy of the credit awarded it by the Committee, and it will prove 
very useful in practice. 

J. P. Thomas, M. D., Elmo, via Pembrook. — I am very much pleased 
with the entire book. It is certainly a multum in parvo on the subject of 
both scientific and practical cooking. 

Dr. Gerard G. Tyrrell, Sec'y California State Board of Health, Sacra- 
mento, Cal. — I have looked over the book and think it a most valuable 
addition to the sanitary works of the American Public Health Association. 
I think it ought to have a large circulation among those to whose means 
it is adapted as embodying the greatest economy In the most efficient re- 
sults in the preparation *of palatable food. 

Dr. J.H. Van Deman, Chattanooga, Tenn.— Decidedly practical and 
useful. 

F. P. Vanderbergh, Buffalo, N. Y. — A most excellent book for any 
citizen, whether professional or artisan. 

Dr. H. P. Walcott, Ex- President of the American Public Health Ass'n., 
Cambridge, Mass. — The work appears to me now, as it did upon my earlier 
reading of it, eminently wise and practical. I think a more general use of 
this little book would be of essential benefit to the public health. 

Jerome Walker, M. D., Brooklyn, N. Y.-~ One of the most practical 
books I have ever seen and the only one of the kind as far as I know. 

D. R. Wallace, M. D., Sup't North Texas Luuatic Asylum, Terrell, Tex. 
— Little book, is a most important treatise on a most important subject, 
truly a multum in parvo. 

Cheney D. Washburn, Springfield. Mass. — Excellent work. 

Dr. J. Madison Watson, Elizabeth, N. J. — An essay which supplies a 
real need. 

J. O. Webster, M. D. , Augusta, Me.— It is of great value, and it is 
very desirable that it should be widely circulated. 

H. M. Wells, Medical Inspector, U. S. N. Washington, D. C— Multum 
in parvo. 

Elisha Winter, Brooklyn, N. Y.— Admirably adapted. 

S. P. Wise, Millersburg, O. — It is a masterpiece on the subject of which 
it treats. 



PRACTICAL 



ADAPTED TO 



PERSONS OF MODERATE AND SMALL MEANS 



Mrs. Mary Hinmait Abel. 



THE LOMB PRIZE ESSAY. 



Inscription; "The Five Food Principles, Illustrated 
by Practical Recipes" 



PUBLISHED BY THE 

AMERICAN PUBLIC HEALTH ASSOCIATION, 



! "• 



YjLsjU A^^ 



■ A H3 



Copyright, 1889, 

By IRVING A. WATSON, 

Secretary American Public Health Association. 



PRINTED BY E. R. ANDREWS 
ROCHESTER, N. Y. 



PEEFAOE 



Perhaps there is no better way of presenting to the 
public the facts which led to the creation of this 
valuable work, than by inserting the announcement 
which resulted in the exceedingly lively and able 
competition for the prize, as well as the merited honor 
which was certain to fall upon the successful com- 
petitor. It read as follows : 

AMERICAN PUBLIC HEALTH ASSOCIATION. 



The Lomb Pkize Essays. 

Two Prizes for 1888. 

Mr. Henry Lomb, of Rochester, N.Y., now well known 
to the American public as the originator of the " Lomb 
Prize Essays,' 1 offers, through the American Public 
Health Association, two prizes for the current year, on 
the following subject: 

Practical Sanitary and Economic Cooking 

Adapted to Persons of Moderate 

and Small Means. 



First Prize, $500, - - - Second Prize, 

Judges: Prof. Charles A. Lindsley, New Haven, 
Conn.; Prof. George H. Rohe, Baltimore, Md.; Prof. 
Victor C. Vaughan, Ann Arbor, Mich.; Mrs. Ellen H. 
Richards, Boston, Mass.; Miss Emma C. G. Poison, 
New Haven, Conn. 

Conditions : The arrangement of the essay will be left 
to the discretion of the author. They are, however, 

(3) 



iv Preface. 

expected to cover, in the broadest and most specific 
manner, methods of cooking as well as carefully pre- 
pared receipts, for three classes, — ( 1 ) those of moderate 
means; ( 2 ) those of small means; ( 3 ) those who may be 
called poor. For each of these classes, receipts for three 
meals a day for several days in succession should be 
given, each meal to meet the requirements of the body, 
and to vary as much as possible from day to day. For- 
mulas for at least twelve dinners, to be carried to the 
place of work, and mostly eaten cold, to be given. 
Healthfulness, practical arrangement, low cost, and 
palatableness should be combined considerations. The 
object of this work is for the information of the house- 
wife, to whose requirements the average cook-book is ill 
adapted, as well as to bring to her attention healthful 
and ecconomic methods and receipts. 

All essays written for the above prizes must be in the 
hands of the Secretary, Dr. Irving A. "Watson, Concord, 
N. H., on or before September 15, 1888. Each essay 
mast bear a motto, and have accompanying it a securely 
sealed envelope containing the author's name and ad- 
dress, with the same motto upon the outside of the 
envelope. 

After the prize essays have been determined upon, the 
envelopes bearing the mottoes corresponding to the 
prize essays will be opened, and the awards made to the 
persons whose names are found within them. The re- 
maining envelopes, unless the corresponding essays are 
reclaimed by authors or their representatives within 
thirty days after publication of the awards, will be 
destroyed, unopened, by the Secretary. 

None of the judges will be allowed to compete for a 
prize. 

The judges will announce the awards at the Annual 
Meeting of the American Public Health Association, 
1888. 

It is intended that the above essays shall be essen- 
tially American in their character and application, and 



Preface. v 

this will be considered by the judges as an especial 
merit. 

Competition is open to authors of any nationality, 
but all the papers must be in the English language. 

Irving A. Watson, 

Secretary. 
Concord, N. H., February, 1888. 

The above circular was extensively circulated and 
published throughout the United States and the 
Dominion of Canada, with the result of bringing to 
the Secretary, within the specified time, seventy essays 
upon the subject announced. The arrival of these 
essays covered a period of nearly five months, and 
they were forwarded to the Chairman of the Commit- 
tee of Award nearly as fast as received, thus giving 
the committee ample time for their exceedingly 
laborious work of examination. The decision of the 
judges was announced at the Sixteenth Annual Meet- 
ing of the American Public Health Association, and 
was as follows: 

Report of Committee on the Lomb Prizes. 

Your committee, to whom were referred the essays 
upon "Practical Sanitary and Economic Cooking 
Adapted for Persons of Moderate and Small Means," 
respectfully report that they have perused with thought- 
ful and considerate attention the three score and ten 
essays which were submitted to them. 

A few of theui were presented in beautiful specimens 
of type-writing, but the great majority of them were in 
manuscript, and some of them not in the most legible 
characters, a circumstance which, it will be appreciated, 
became an important matter, when considered in con- 
nection with the large number of competitors, and the 
fact that many of their papers were each of several 
hundred pages in length. 



vi Preface. 

The result of the labors of the committee is, that by 
unanimous approval, the first prize of $500 is awarded to 
the author of the essay bearing this inscription, — " The 
Five Food Principles, illustrated by Practical Recipes." 

Your committee would further report that although 
.there were among the remaining sixty-nine a number of 
essays of considerable merit, there was no single one so 
prominently superior to others as to commend the ap- 
proval of the majority of your committee, nor was there 
any which did notcontain someerrors of statement, which 
your committee did not feel justified in endorsing with 
the approval of this Association by the bestowal of a 
prize, or else which did not fail to meet some of the con- 
ditions upon which the prize was offered, or which was 
not otherwise objectionable because of literary defects. 

Your committee would therefore respectfully report 
that no essay was found among those submitted to them 
which they judged deserving of the second prize of $200. 

The committee consider it a duty, in awarding the 
prize, to emphasize the fact that of all the essays sub- 
mitted the one selected is not only preeminently the 
best, but that it is also intrinsically an admirable treatise 
on the subject. 

It is simple and lucid in statement, methodical in ar- 
rangement, and well adapted to the practical wants of 
the classes to which it is addressed. Whoever may read 
it can have confidence in the soundness of its teachings, 
and cannot fail to be instructed in the art of cooking by 
its plain precepts, founded as they are upon the correct 
application of the scientific principles of chemistry and 
physiology to the proper preparation of food for man. 

All of which is respectfully submitted. 

C. A. Lindsley. 
George H. Rohe. 
V. C. Vaughan. 
Ellen H. Richards. 
Emma C. G. Polson\ 



Preface. vii 

The American public is to be congratulated upon 
this useful and valuable contribution to the needs of 
its great army of working people, made possible 
through the humanitarian benevolence of a private 
citizen. This was the fifth prize offered by the same 
citizen, through the same channel, for the noble pur- 
pose of ameliorating, in some degree, the hardships 
which befall mankind in the tireless struggle for 
existence. 

That this essay may be placed in the hands of every 
family in the country, is his earnest desire as well as 
that of the Association; therefore a price barely cover- 
ing the cost has been placed upon this volume. It is 
to be hoped, that Government departments, state and 
local boards of health, sanitary and benevolent asso- 
ciations, manufacturers, employers, etc., will purchase 
editions at cost, or otherwise aid in distributing this 
work among the peoj:>le. 

Although a copyright has been placed upon these 
essays for legitimate protection, permission to publish 
under certain conditions, can be obtained by address- 
ing the secretary. 

We commend this volume to the public, believing 
it to be an unequaled work upon " Practical Sanitary 
and Economic Cooking, adapted to persons of mode- 
rate and small means." 

Secretary American Public Health Association. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



PAGE. 

General Introduction, 1 

The Kitchen, 18 

I. Proteid - containing Foods (Animal Sort), and 

their Preparation, 22 

Methods of Cooking Meat, 32 

Soup Making, 33, 39 

Boiling Meat, 34, 40 

Frying in Fat, 35, 40 

Baking Meat, 35, 41 

Broiling Meat, 36, 42 

Use of Thermometer, 43 

Heat Saver, 44 

To Make Meat Tender, 45 

Recipes for Cooking Meat, 46 

Beef, - 46 

Veal, 50 

Mutton and Lamb, 51 

Pork, 52 

Fish and Fish Soups, _.. 55 

Fowl and Fowl Soups, - 57 

Eggs and Egg Dishes, 58 

Cheese and Cheese Dishes, 61 

Care and Use of Milk, 63 

Sour Milk, - 64 

II. Fats and Oils, 66 

Usesof Fats, 71 

Meat and Vegetable Sauces, 72 

III. The Carbohydrate-containing Foods and their 

Preparation, 75 

Grains, - ?9 

Sugars, .. 80 

ix 



Table of Contents. 

Legumes, 81 

Potatoes and other Vegetables, 82 

Fruits, 83 

The Cooking of Grains, _ _ 85 

Grains Cooked Whole, 85 

Cookingof Grits, 86 

Corn Flour, 87 

Graham Flour, 88 

Fine Wheat Flour, 89 

Macaroni and Noodles, 89 

Flour Raised with Fat, 91 

Flour Raised with Egg, 92 

Egg Pancakes, &c 92 

Flour Raised with Carbonic Acid Gas, 93 

(a) Yeast Raised, 

WhiteBread, 94 

Rye and Corn Bread, 97 

Biscuits, Rolls, &c 97 

Yeast Pancakes, 99 

Buckwheat Flour, 100 

(b) Raised with Soda, 

Methods, 101 

Soda Biscuits, ._ 102 

Uses of Biscuit Dough, &c 102 

Soda Corn Breads, _ 103 

Soda Pancakes, without Eggs, 103 

Soda Pancakes, with Eggs, 104 

Uses for Bread, . _. 105 

Simple Sweet Dishes, 107 

Milk Puddings, 107 

Fruit Puddings, with Biscuit Dough, 108 

Fruit Puddings with Bread, 109 

Custard Puddings, 110 

Bread and Custard Puddings, _ 110 

Suet Puddings, 112 

Pudding Sauce, T 112 

Fritters, _ 113 

Cooking of Vegetables, 115 



Table of Contents. 

Soups without Meat, 117 

Vegetable Soups, ___ 117 

Flour and Bread Soups, 121 

Milk Soups or Porridges, 122 

Fruit Soups, 124 

Additions to Soups, 126 

Dumplings for Soups and Stews, 127 

Flavors and Seasonings, 130 

Drinks, ... 133 

Cookery for the Sick, 137 

Twelve Bills of Fare — Explanation, 142 

Class I. (with letter of advice to mother of the family), 143 

Class II 163 

Class III 164 

Twelve Cold Dinners, 176 



INTRODUCTION. 



Few things are of more importance than that we 
should find ourselves physically and mentally equal to 
our day's work, but not many of us realize how largely 
this depends upon the food we eat. 

Supposing there to be just money enough in a given 
family to buy the right kind and quantity of food. 
Now if this money is not wisely expended, or if after 
the food has been bought it is spoiled in the cooking, 
the results will be very serious for the members of 
that family; they will be under-nourished and they 
will suffer in clear-headedness, bodily strength, and 
in the case of children, in bodily development. 

Surely the right condition of the body is too im- 
portant to be left to chance ; the best scientific knowl- 
edge, the best practical heads should be at its service, 
and this is the case, indeed, to a large extent in Eu- 
rope, where the food of the soldiers and of the inmates 
of public institutions is furnished more or less ac- 
cording to certain rules that have been deduced 
partly from observation, and partly from scientific 
experiment. 

The application of scientific principles on these lines 
is not of long standing, for the investigations that have 
clinched them are all of comparatively recent date. At 



2 History of Food Study. 

the end of the last century a beginning was made in 
France and in Germany in connection with philan- 
thropic efforts to improve the food of the poor, and it 
was at this time that Count Eumford introduced into 
the soup kitchens of Munich, the soup that has been 
named after him. From this time on interest in the 
subject of foods, both for men and domestic animals, 
steadily increased, although experimenters were con- 
stantly coming to wrong conclusions because the 
sciences of Organic Chemistry and Physiology, as far 
as they concerned the subject, were not far enough 
advanced. 

It was only in the early forties that the first ex- 
perimental agricultural stations were established, but 
so rapidly have they multiplied that they now number 
more than a hundred in Europe alone; and in these 
and in the laboratories of the great universities, 
analyses have been made of most of the foods used by 
men and animals, and also tests of the relative flesh 
and fat producing power of different foods and com- 
binations of foods. 

For years the results of these investigations have 
been applied with profit to the feeding of cattle, 
but it was a case of threatened wholesale starvation 
in England that first turned the attention of properly 
trained persons to a like study of the nourishment of 
human beings. During our civil war the condition of 
the cotton spinners in Lancashire and Cheshire, Eng- 
land, became so serious as to make government help 
necessary to keep them from starving, and in 1862 and 
1863 Dr. Edward Smith was commissioned to examine 
into the the dietetic needs of the distressed operatives. 



English Investigations. 3 

In his report for 1863 are found tables of the food con- 
sumed per week by 634 families, and in spite of the dif- 
ficulties standing in the way of such an investigation, 
the foods consumed were classified into tables showing 
the amounts of the different food principles taken 
per week by each family. 

One of the great practical results following from 
this investigation was the determination of the mini- 
mum amount of each nutritive principle which men, 
women and children need, to keep them in fair health. 
The amount of food with which an unemployed man 
can fight off starvation, and the diseases temporarily 
incident to it, was found to be represented in 35 ounces 
of good bread per day, and the necessary amount of 
wholesome water. 

Since the publication of Dr. Smith's report similar 
inquiries have been instituted by the scientists of other 
countries, and many analyses have been made of 
the exact amount and kinds of food eaten by various 
classes of laborers under the most varied conditions. 
Professors Voit and Pettenkofer of Munich have even 
accounted for every particle of food that passed 
through the body of a man, both while he was at work 
and while he was idle. They have also noted how 
much of his own body was consumed when he ate 
nothing. Finally, a great number of averages have 
been taken and so-called " standard dietaries" con- 
structed, by which is meant the average amount of 
each of the chief food principles that keep an average 
muscle-worker in good condition, when doing aver- 
age work. 

Every one will admit that it is of great importance 



4 Applications to tile Household. 

for the farmer to know in what proportion he shall 
lay in hay and other food for the winter feeding of 
his stock; the animals must thrive, but there must 
be no waste by furnishing food in the wrong quanti- 
ties or proportions. 

For the housewife, the food question in its relation 
to her family can be stated in the very same words. 
It is important that she should economize, but her 
path will be full of pitfalls if she does not understand 
in what true economy consists. Most people with a 
real interest in this subject, have had at some period 
of their lives certain pet theories as to food. Per- 
haps they have been at one time convinced that most 
people ate too much, at another, that meat was the 
all strengthener, or they may have been afflicted 
with the vegetarian fad, and whatever their special 
views have been they have thought that they rested 
them upon facts. But surely they would never have 
pinned their faith to one-sided diets if they had 
rightly comprehended the main facts of nutrition. 
We believe that if these facts as at present interpreted, 
and the world's experience in applying them, can be 
put at the command of the housewife, she can use 
them to great profit. 

We have employed the term "food principles"; 
what do we mean by it ? Everyone knows what is 
meant by a food, as meat or bread, and everyone 
knows that the food offered us by our butchers and 
grocers comes from the animal and vegetable king- 
doms. The oxygen we breathe and the water we 
drink nature furnishes for us directly, so to speak, 
though unfortunately for many of us, and especially 



Food Principles. 5 

for young children, the former is not thought of as a 
food. Oxygen aside, it has been found by those who 
have studied the matter, that all foods contain one or 
more of five classes of constituents, called "nutritive 
ingredients" or "food principles." These five prin- 
ciples are: 

(1) Water. 

(2) Proteids. 

(3) Fats. 

(4) Carbohydrates. 

( 5 ) Salts or mineral constituents. 

WATER. 

It is important to note that our bodies when full- 
grown are two-thirds water, and that our food con- 
tains from 1 to 94$ of it. Considering the scope of 
this essay, it must be left to take care of itself as a 
food. 

PROTEIDS. 

A class of nearly allied bodies is included under 
this head. The whole class is sometimes called 
"Albumens." 

The housewife is familiar with proteids in such 
foods as the lean of meat, in eggs and cheese. These 
contain the principle in various proportions ; for 
example, 

Lean of meat has - 15-21 $ 

Eggs in both white and yolk - - 12.5$ 
Fresh cows' milk on an average - - 3.4$ 

Cheese 25-30 $ 

Dried Codfish 30 ^ 



6 Food Principles. 

i 

Vegetables are more deficient in proteids though 
the grains and legumes contain much of it. 

Wheat flour has 10 to 12 <f> 

Peas, beans and Lentils have 22.85 to 27.7$ 

In fresh vegetables we find only from £ to 3$, 
excepting green peas and beans in which the proteids 
reach 5 to 6.5$. 

FATS. 

Fats are obtained from both the animal and veg- 
etable kingdoms. Those used by us in cookery come 
mostly from animals, and are known to the house- 
wife as butter, lard and tallow. Vegetable food as a 
rule, is very poor in fats, containing from to 3$ 
only. 

Some of the cereals, like corn and oats contain 
from 4 to 7$ of fats. 

CARBOHYDRATES. 

The bodies classed as "carbohydrates" are found 
mainly in vegetables. The housekeeper knows them 
as starches and sugars. 

Under the starches proper are included such 
things as the starches of grains and seeds, Iceland 
moss, gums and dextrin. 

Milk is one of the few animal products that has 
more than a very small quantity of carbohydrates. 
It -contains on the average about 4.8$ of this prin- 
ciple ; — slightly more than of either proteids or fats. 

SALTS. 

The things that give hardness to our bones, like 



Functions of Food Principles. 7 

calcium phosphate, and the common salt with which 
we flavor our food, illustrate this class. 

FUNCTIONS OF FOOD PRINCIPLES. 

To know in what proportion these food principles 
should be represented in our diet, we must inquire 
into the part played by each of them in the body. The 
first and the last principle may be dismissed briefly. 
The former, water, is the great medium which floats 
things through the body ; the latter, salts, are com- 
bined in various ways with the solids and fluids of 
our foods, and we shall not easily suffer from lack of 
them. 

The other three food principles (let us call them in 
the following pages the three great food principles), 
cannot be so summarily dealt with. We might say, 
briefly and dogmatically, that the proteids are "flesh 
foods," the fats are "heat foods," the carbohydrates 
" work foods." To be sure, experimenters are agreed 
on the main points, but the different schools are still 
at war on the final explanations and on many details, 
and it has become more and more evident that we 
cannot portion off the work of the body in this sim- 
ple style. Though each of the three great food prin- 
ciples can be said to have a favorite part which it 
plays better than any other, yet we find that like an 
actor of varied talents, it has more than one role in 
its repertoire. 

FUNCTION OF PROTEIDS. 

That this class is indispensable we have the best 
of proofs. It must be given us in one or another of its 



8 Function of Proteids. 

forms, for, even if we are not athletes, nearly one half 
of our body is made up of muscle which is one fifth 
proteid, and the nitrogen in this proteid can only be 
furnished by proteid again, since neither fats nor car- 
bohydrates contain any of it ; therefore in making up 
bills of fare, let us remember that growing and working 
proteid, yes, even idle proteid as Dr. Smith found, 
needs proteid, and that there is nothing in any of 
the other food principles that can entirely take its 
place. 

Though we think of proteid mostly as a great body 
builder and restorer, it can also to some extent fur- 
nish fat when it stands in a certain relation to the 
fats and carbohydrates of our food, and we are assured 
by experimenters that it also furnishes heat and mus- 
cle energy under certain conditions. 

In these last two activities, however, it is far ex- 
celled by fats and carbohydrates. We shall therefore 
think of it as the nitrogen-furnisher of our tissues, 
and also as the grand stimulant among foods, incit- 
ing the body, as it does, to burn up more of other 
kinds. 

Scientists, at one time, held the opinion that our 
muscle energy comes chiefly from proteids. This view 
has been abandoned, but many a working man still 
believes that meat is the only kind of food that is of 
any account; he thinks of fats and starches as quite 
unimportant comparatively. Now it has been proved 
over and over again, that we can combine meat with 
fats and vegetable food in such a proportion that it 
shall play only its main role, viz., that of building 
and restoring, while these latter furnish the heat and 



Function of Fats and Carbohydrates. 9 

muscle energy needed. Proteid food is such a costly 
article that it will not do to put it at work which 
cheaper material can do even better. 

FUNCTION OF FATS. 

The fats also have more than one office in the body. 
They can be stored as body fat, or they can be burned 
and give off heat, and they may also serve as a source 
of muscular energy, in an indirect manner at least. 

FUNCTION" OF CARBOHYDRATES. 

The Carbohydrate principle furnishes fat to our 
tissues, and is a source of heat and muscle energy, 
indeed the chief source of muscle energy in all ordi- 
nary diets. 

FLAVORINGS. 

So far we have had chiefly in mind the real work- 
ing constituents of food, if we may so speak. But 
many things cannot be studied or classified in the 
above way; they must be looked at from another 
point of view. 

Thus, a pinch of pepper, a cup of coffee, a fine, 
juicy strawberry, — what of these? They may con- 
tain all five of the food principles, but who cares for 
the proteid action or carbohydrate effect of his cup 
of good coffee at breakfast, or what interest for us 
has the heating effect of the volatile oil to which the 
strawberry owes a part of its delicious taste? 

Surely the economical housekeeper who would 
throw out of the list of necessaries all the things that 
tickle the palate, that rouse the sense of smell, that 



10 Flavorings. 

please the eye and stimulate our tired nerves, just 
because these things contain but little food, would 
make a grave mistake. She may know just what cuts 
of meat to buy, what vegetables are most healthful 
and economical, but if she does not understand how 
to "make the mouth water," her labor is largely lost. 
Especially if she has but little money, should she pay 
great attention to this subject, for it is the only way 
to induce the body to take up plain food with relish. 
The list of these spices, flavors, harmless drinks 
and the like, is a long one. Unfortunately, we have 
no comprehensive word that will include everything 
of the sort, from a sprig of parsley to a cup of coffee; 
the German calls them " Genuss-mittel " — " pleasure- 
giving things." 

PROPORTIONS AND AMOUNTS OF POOD PRINCIPLES. 

We have brought our discussion of the three great 
food principles to the point where we can enquire in 
what proportions and amounts these should be repre- 
sented in our diet. 

The standard daily dietary that is most frequently 
cited, and which, perhaps, best represents the food 
consumption of the average European workman in 
towns, is that proposed by Prof. Voit. This dietary 
was made upon the basis of a large number of ob- 
served cases. It demands for a man of average size, 
engaged in average manual labor, 

Proteids.* Fats. Carbohydrates. 

118 gms. 56 gms. 500 gms. 

Now it is the opinion of all competent judges, that 

*28. 34 grams. = 1 oz. 



Standard Dietaries. 11 

a,t least one third of this proteid should come from 
the animal kingdom, and this one third, if given in 
the form of fresh beef, would be represented by 230 
grams of butcher's meat, calculated to consist of 
Bone and tendon, - - - - 18 gms. 

Fat, 21 " 

Lean, - - - - - - 191 " 

When we take whole populations into account, we 
find that little, if any, more meat than this falls to 
each person per day. Thus the average consumption 
per day for three great cities is given as follows; 
Berlin, - 135 g ms . p er ca p. 

New York, - 226 " " " 

London, - - - 274 " " " 

Of course these averages include children, but they 
also include great numbers of the well-to-do, who eat 
much more meat than their bodies need. 

We will add a few more examples of dietaries, 
some of which are used by the writer in making out 
the bills of fare given in this essay. 
Proteids, Fats, Carbohydrates, 

Proposed by Prof. Voit for 
a man at hard work. 

Allowed to German soldiers 
in garrison. 

Proposed by Prof. Atwater 
for American at hard work. 

By the same for American 
at moderate work. 

Proposed by Prof. Voit for 
a woman. 

By the same for children 
from 7 to 15 years. 



gms. 


gms. 


gms. 


145 


100 


450 


120 


56 


500 


150 


150 


500 


125 


125 


450 


100 


60 


400 


80 


50 


320 



12 Standard Dietaries, 

We will give an instance of how much below these 
figures the amount consumed sometimes falls. 

Prof. Boehm found that a poor North German 
family, consisting of a man, wife and a child five 
years old, had in one week for their food : 

Potatoes, 41 lbs. 

Rye flour, 2^ lbs. 

Meat, ------ If lbs. 

Rice, i lb. 

Rye Bread, 12 lbs. 

A very little milk. 

Calculating the food principles contained in these 
amounts, we find that the three individuals daily 
consumed of: 

Proteids, Fats, Carbohydrates, 

175.5 gms. 41 gms. 1251. gms. 

It needs no comment to show how insufficient is 
this dietary in amount, and how incorrect in pro- 
portion. 

We have selected Prof. Atwater's dietary for a man 
at moderate manual labor as the basis of our twelve 
bills of fare and have taken Voit's standard for women 
and children. 

Our climate is more trying and our people work 
faster, and we shall do well to allow more fat and meat 
to our working-man than the foreign dietaries provide. 
If our man is to get daily one-third of his proteid 
in the form of animal food, this would be represented 
by 8 ozs. of butcher's meat (without bone), by from 
5 to 5.8 ozs. cheese, or by 8 eggs. 



American Needs. 13 

We believe that it is better to go a little high rather 
than too low with proteid food. As a rule, people 
who eat enough porteids, and especially enough animal 
food, are vigorous and have what we call " stamina," 
and doctors incline to the belief that such people 
resist disease better because their blood and tissue are 
less watery than in the case of people who draw their 
proteids almost entirely from such vegetables as pota- 
toes. But many workingmen in America would be 
surprised to learn how well health and strength can 
be maintained on what is, after all, not such a very 
large amount of meat, provided the rest of the dietary 
contains enough vegetable proteid and fat. 

PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS. 

It now remains for us to see whether the economist 
can get practical help from the foregoing facts about 
the character of foods and the use that is made of 
them in the body. 

We have seen that we cannot economize in the 
amount of our food beyond certain limits and yet re- 
main healthy and strong ; also that we must not 
greatly alter the relative proportions in which expe- 
rience has shown that these foods are best combined. 
The true field of household economy has, then, 
certain prescribed limits. 

Its scope lies, 1st. In furnishing a certain food 
principle in its cheap rather than its dear form; 
for example, the proteid of beef instead of that of 
chicken, fat of meat instead of butter. 2nd. Hav- 
ing bought foods wisely, in cooking them in such a 
manner as to bring out their full nutritive value; for 



14 Scope of the Economist. 

instance, making a roast juicy and delicious instead 
of dry and tasteless. 3d. In learning how to use 
every scrap of food to advantage, as in soup making, 
and 4th, if we add to these the art of so flavoring and 
varying as to make simple materials relish, we have 
covered the whole field of the household economist, 
so far as the food question is concerned. 

We hope she will find help in the following pages, 
for it will be part of our task in this essay to examine 
different articles of food as to their nutritive value, and 
to recommend such combinations and such methods of 
cooking as will make the utmost out of a certain sum 
of money. As to foods, we have in America a large 
range of choice; staple raw products cost less generally 
than they do in Europe and the laboring man here 
has somewhat more money to buy with. The anxious 
provider, who must feed many mouths on what seems 
an insufficient sum, may feel assured that he can, 
without doubt, learn to do better than he now does. 
In this line we must not disdain to learn lessons 
wherever we can. 

There is an unfortunate prejudice among us against 
learning of foreign countries. The American work- 
man says indignantly that he does not want to learn 
how to live on "starvation wages." But the facts, 
viewed coolly, are just these: the inhabitants of older 
countries have learned some lessons that we too 
must soon learn whether we will or no, and to profit 
by these lessons before we are really obliged to, will 
in no way lower wages, it will simply help us to get 
more comfort and pleasure out of our money. 

Students of economy, political and domestic, find 



Lessons from Foreign Countries, 15 

no better school than the experience of older 
countries, and constantly draw lessons from their 
greater thrift and economy in living. Mrs. Helen 
Campbell found, among the poor sewing women of 
New York, that none were skillful in cooking their 
scanty food excepting only the German and Swiss 
women. All observing travelers unanimously give 
this testimony, — "If our American workman knew 
how to make as much of his large wage as the for- 
eigner does of bis small one, he could live in luxury." 

But you ask, what are the special lessons to be 
learned of the foreign housewife? We answer, chiefly 
self-denial and saving. Do not give up in despair 
because you have a small income and resign yourself 
to living meanly, in a hand to mouth fashion. Dili- 
gent study of the question and resolute abstention from 
luxuries will solve the problem, if it can be solved. 

We indulge ourselves and our children too much 
in what tastes good, while all the time we know we have 
not money enough to buy necessaries. For instance, 
the consumption of sugar in America was in 1887, 56 
lbs. per head, in Germany hardly more than one third 
that amount. This means a larger consumption of 
sweetmeats than we can afford and at the same time 
be well fed otherwise. 

We seem, in general, to spend too much money in 
our country on food compared with what we use in 
other directions; one great trouble is that we do not 
know how to save every scrap of food and use it 
again in some form. For one thing, we have yet to 
learn the great art of soup making, — and it seems 
also, of soup eating. 



16 Soups. 

The American housekeeper would say to me: " This 
is nothing new, for years we've been hearing about 
soups. We don't like soups! " I only ask, " have you 
tried them for a considerable length of time, so that 
you have become skilled in making them, and your 
family used to their taste?" One fact alone ought 
to insure for them a good trial; that at least three 
nations, the French, German and Italian, make daily 
use of them and have for generations. To take part 
of our food in this form is an absolute necessity if we 
are to do the best possible with a certain amount of 
money. 

PRACTICAL DIFFICULTIES. 

The practical difficulties in the way of improve- 
ment in household cookery are nob small. As cook, 
we have the wife and mother, who has too little time 
for this very important branch of household work; 
she has had, perhaps, no good training in the art 
of cookery (for it is an art), and besides, her 
kitchen and kitchen utensils are not at all what 
they should be. Indeed, the qualifications for a given 
task could not well be further from the ideal. 

In Europe families of small means have many 
helps unknown to us. In the first place, bread is 
never baked at home, the bakers' bread being both 
excellent and cheap. It would seem that among us, 
bakers' bread must shortly improve in quality and 
decrease in price ; either the profits must be too 
large, or the business not well managed. For 
instance, in those parts of Germany where white 
bread is eaten as a staple, it costs a trifle over 3 



The Foreign Housekeeper. 17 

cents a pound, while flour of average quality costs 
about the same. In contrast with this, compare the 
prices of bread and flour in our own country where 
in no large city is bread quoted at less than 7 cents, 
while flour costs 3 cents. That is, bread costs in Ger- 
many about the same as flour and in America more 
than twice as much; and yet the German baker is no- 
tably a prosperous person ! 

The foreign housekeeper has still further help from 
the baker. If she makes a cake or pie, she sends it 
out to be baked, and pays from one to two cents 
(the fuel would have cost more); joints of meat and 
mixed dishes are also sent to be baked for the same 
price; and before any bakeshop in a German city, at 
noon on Sunday, can be seen a line of servant girls, 
each in turn receiving a steaming dish as it is taken 
from the oven. The soup kitchens ( Volks Kiichen) 
of various grades are also a great help. The writer 
has repeatedly had brought from one of them an excel- 
lent meat broth ( 1 pt. for 2 cents ), and good cooked 
vegetables are furnished for a price less than they 
could be cooked for at home, if one took any account 
of time and fire. 

But such helps are not yet to any great extent 
available to the American woman; she must wrestle 
with her own problem at home and solve it as best 
she can. 



THE KITCHEN. 



The kitchen of a woman of average means is not 
the ideal kitchen. It is perhaps too small or not 
light enough, or it may have still more serious defects, 
as a bad drain. We must take it as it is, however, 
requiring only that it contain what is necessary to 
the end we have in view, — plain cooking for a fam- 
ily of six. 

In the cheaper city dwellings the 

Size of Kitchen. , .. , . ,, , n * -i 

kitchen is small, too small tor good 
ventilation, and for the heavier kinds of work as 
washing; but for cooking, a very small kitchen can 
be so arranged as to answer every purpose. 

Any one who has seen a ship's kitchen can under- 
stand this. The cook as he stands before his range 
is within reach of all his stores, for rows of drawers 
and shelves literally line the walls from floor to ceil- 
ing, little tables for pastry or cake making are 
drawn out of the wall and pushed in again when not 
wanted, and every inch of floor and wall space is used 
to the best advantage. This cook would tell you that 
he did not want a larger kitchen ; he would only lose 
time running about in it. 

Begin to utilize the wall space. If 

Arrangement. , , , , , 

you have not yet as many shelves as 
the walls will accommodate, put up more, and espe- 

18 



Arrangement of Kitchen. 19 

cially about and above the stove, so that as you stand 
at your cooking you can reach salt, pepper and every 
other flavor that can be used in a soup or stew; cook- 
ing spoons and forks and knives, potlids and holders 
— all these should be at your hand. Let a carpenter 
fasten into the mortared wall strips of wood that will 
hold nails and a few shelves, and if the stove is in a 
niche with wall on two or even three sides of it, all 
the better. On these nails should hang nearly every 
implement used in cooking, and on the shelves should 
be found all spices and flavors; farther back can be 
placed what is more seldom used. If there are no 
drawers, never mind, use close tin boxes for as many 
things as you can; if no closed cupboard for your 
dishes, hang a curtain before the open shelves. 

The nearer your sink is to the stove the better, 
that is the path your feet must oftenest travel. 
There must be a table of some sort very near the 
stove; if it is a movable one, all the better, or it 
may be a broad shelf with a very strong and safe 
hinged support under it, letting down when not in 
use. 

I take for granted that the main part of your work 
is to be done on this stove and table, and that a well 
stocked pantry, fitted out for the making of pastry 
and cake and elaborate dishes, is not within your reach 
any more than the time for making such. 
^ ., The utensils you need are few, but 

Utensils 

these few you must have. Consider 
the value of the food materials that you use; a few 
burns on an old sauce pan will quite buy a new one. 
We will speak only of the most important and abso- 
lutely necessary utensils. 



20 Utensils. 

First, do not use tin ; it is cheap, but coal is not, 
and you will waste a great deal of coal in trying to 
cook in tin. Brass and copper cooking vessels are to 
be avoided by one who must economize, as they are 
expensive and require too much care to keep them 
free from the poisonous verdigris. 

Of chief importance among your utensils is a flat 
bottomed .iron pot with close fitting iron lid. Get 
the smoothest and best, even if it cost double. In 
this you will roast meat with little fire, cook vege- 
tables, all but peas and beans, cook anything indeed 
that is not acid. Have two of these, if you can, of 
different sizes. Next, an iron frying pan, also of 
the smoothest wrought iron and light; this too 
should have a close fitting cover. Some people con- 
sider iron utensils heavy and old fashioned, but where 
economy is an object, no other ware is so good and 
satisfactory. The blue or grey enamelled ware is very 
nice but will not stand great heat and easily chips 
and cracks, but you should have one kettle of this 
ware as it is valuable for cooking fruit and anything 
acid. You must have a wire gridiron for toasting 
bread and broiling meat ; this you should use for 
many things which you now cook in the frying pan. 
The tea-kettle is a matter of course, and a griddle. 
There is one other utensil not as common, but which 
deserves to be, viz., a steamer; a simple pot with 
perforated bottom which will fit tightly into the top 
of the iron pot, and have a very tightly fitting cover. 
Its use will be discussed later. 

You can hardly do without a number of earthen 
J u g s > glazed with lead-free enamel, especially for 



Fuel 21 

cooking and holding milk. Get also a number of 
wooden spoons; they are cheap and clean, and of con- 
venient shape for stirring. The old fashioned pud- 
ding stick of the Yankee kitchen is the earliest form 
among us, and many people know no other. 

A good stove is of first importance in a 
kitchen, but fortunately good stoves have 
become common. A graver question, however, is the 
cost of fuel to be burned in them. Of course coal 
must be the stand-by, and when the stove is heated 
up as on ironing and baking days, care can be taken 
to use the fire to its fullest capacity; in winter, 
dishes can be cooked ahead for several days. 

To cook a single dish or for boiling a tea- 
kettle a coal oil stove is a saving; it is also 
invaluable for keeping a pot at a simmering heat, — a 
thing very difficult to accomplish on a stove. 

For the same purpose, and for any steady 
cooking, and above all for broiling meat, every 
housekeeper ought to have appliances for burning 
charcoal; it only needs a grating with a rim 2 or 3 
inches high, to let down into the stove hole (a sort of 
deep spider with a grated bottom). For such pur- 
poses, a bushel of hard wood charcoal costing 15 or 
20 cents would last a long time. Charcoal is almost 
the only fuel used in Paris for cooking; indeed, 
throughout France and in Western Germany it is in 
very common use. 

For "Cooking Safe" as a saver of 

•'Cooking- Safe." „ 1 . . 

iuel, see page 44. 



PROTEID-COOTAIITO^G FOODS 

AND THEIR PREPARATION. 



We have already in the Introduction called atten- 
tion to the importance of this food principle. It is 
well for us to bear in mind that there are three great 
classes of Proteids, Albumens proper, Caseins, and 
and Fibrins, and that in both plants and animals are 
found representatives of these three classes. Thus, 
in plant juices and in eggs we have things belonging 
to the Albumen class; in the curd of sour milk and 
in the legumine of the pod-covered plants we have 
examples of caseins; and in the gluten of grains and 
in the clot whipped out of blood we have examples 
of fibrins. 

ANIMAL FOODS. 

Our animal foods contain some other things that 
the housewife ranks with proteids and we have a few 
words to say aboirfcone of them, viz., gelatine, that 
nitrogenous substance boiled out of bones and car- 
tilage. 

In the history of foods this gelatine, 
Gelatine, is . o ^.^ mea ^ ex tract, has played a great 

part. Before the real functions of the food princi- 
ples were understood it was thought that what could 
be extracted by water from a piece of meat comprised 
all in it that was of value to the body; and so it hap- 

22 



Gelatine. 23 

pened that for more than a hundred years after Papin 
had discovered the method of extracting all the gel- 
atine out of bones (which he did by the aid of that 
contrivance still known in kitchens as the "Papin 
Soup Digester ") gelatine was considered to be one of 
the most, if not the most nourishing constituent of 
meats. In the last decade of the 18th century, and 
in the early part of this the French made great use 
of gelatine under the impression that it was a proteid 
because it yielded nitrogen to the chemist. Improved 
methods of extracting it were invented, and so gen- 
eral did its use become, especially in the public insti- 
tutions of Paris, that from 1829-38, two and three 
quarters million portions of bone-gelatine soup were 
dealt out to the inmates of a single hospital. But in 
spite of the opinions of eminent scientists that gela- 
tine soups and gelatine tablets were a perfect substi- 
tute for proteids, their consumption decreased; physi- 
cians again took hold of the subject, and by the 
middle of the century opinion had so changed that 
nearly all, if not all, food value was denied to them. 
Modern experimentation based on more rational meth- 
ods has put gelatine in its right place. It is a food, just 
as much so as is fat, but like fat it cannot play the 
role of proteid although a certain amount taken with 
fats and carbohydrates will enable the body to get 
along with a little less proteid. It is even said by 
Prof. Voit to excel fat in its ability to do half duty 
for proteid material. 

We have thought it well to speak of this because 
of a sort of superstitious regard in the kitchen for 
" stock," a survival, one would think, of Papin's time. 



24 Extractives. 

A good German housewife was wont to discourse to 
the writer on the economical virtues of a certain 
"Frau Doctor" who "always boiled her bones three 
times " and dwellers in many a household have had 
their nostrils assailed by the smell of glue, during 
the sixth hour of bone boiling. 

But if the importance of gelatine was and is still 
exaggerated, this is still more true of the other parts 
of meat that can be extracted by water. 
Sol. Albumen and We have seen that hot water coag- 

Extractives. ulates proteid, and once coagulated, 
it will not dissolve in water, and for this reason the 
soup generally contains of this valuable principle only 
the soluble albumen which rose as scum. If the cook 
has skimmed this off, the soup which she calls strong 
is strong with flavors rather than with nutritive princi- 
ples. 

To show how very little real food a good tasting 
meat soup may contain, we will give an analysis made 
by Prof. Konig. 

He took 1 lb. of beef and about 6| 
oz. of veal bones, and treated them, he 
says, as is usually done in the kitchen to get a pint 
of good strong soup or bouillon. This contained 

Proteids, Fat, Extractives, Salts. 

1.190 1.480 1.830 .320 

But where are the albumens that were in the meat 
to begin with ? Many of them are still there in that 
stringy, sodden mass, the "soup meat," which the 
cook tells us contains no further value. It consists 
of cooked connective tissue and albumen; now these 



Kbnig's Analysis of Soup. 25 

are foods and they must be rescued from the garbage 
barrel, for with the help of the chopping knife and 
the herb bag we can make them still do proteid duty 
in our bodies. 

Real importance If we do not overvalue either the 
of soup. gelatine or the flavoring matters in our 
meat soups, nor throw away the meat out of which 
they are made, we shall begin to make soups on the 
right basis, that is an understanding of the real value 
of the materials we are working with, and we shall use 
meat for our soups less often than we now do perhaps, 
considering its high price and our greater need of it 
cooked in other ways. Soups should not be regarded 
as a luxury, neither as the last resort of poverty, but 
as a necessary part of a dinner, just as they are now 
used by all classes in Europe; but they need not be 
made of good cuts of meat, nor indeed, of meat at all. 
Proteid as we We will now direct our attention to 

buy it. the proteid as we buy it. 

We cannot here take up the chemical composition 
and exact nutritive value of every kind of meat to be 
bought at the butcher's stall, the fish market and the 
poultry stand. But we must note a few points of 
importance. 

We know that butchers' meat con- 
tains from 50fo to VSfo of water, accord- 
ing to the quality of the piece and the kind of animal. 
Most people in buying meat think first of the <red 
part ; they may know that it is advantageous to buy 
meat that is streaked with fat, but they hardly realize 
how wise it is to do so. As a rule, fat takes the place 
of water. Let us consult tables of analyses for the 

3 



26 Analysis of Meats. 

amounts of water, proteids and nitrogenous extrac- 
tives, fats and salts contained in lean pieces and in 
pieces streaked with fat. In Prof. Konig's valuable 
treatise on Foods we find such analyses, carefully col- 
lected and sifted out of a large amount of material; 
Prof. Konig's An- samples of neck, tenderloin, shoul- 
aiyses of Meat. d er> hind-quarter and so on, just as 
bought at the butchers', were analyzed after being 
freed from adherent lump fat, and the average com- 
position of all the different cuts was as follows: — 

Fat and lean ox Water Nitrogenous -p . 
compared. Substances 

% % % 

From a very fat ox _.. 55.42 17.19 26.38 

From a medium fat ox 72.25 20.91 5.19 

From a lean ox 76.71 20.78 1.50 

These tables illustrate how wise it is to buy meat 
from a very fat animal. They show that a pound of 
meat from a fat ox may have more than 20$ less 
water than a corresponding piece from a lean one; of 
course such a piece may contain from 3 to 4$ less 
proteid, but to compensate for this, it will have 25$ 
more fat. 

Let us give another table which illustrates that 
pieces like tenderloin are not the richest in proteids 
and fats, though they do have the finest flavor. It 
may help to console those whose purses do not allow 
them to buy these expensive cuts. 



Different Cuts Compared, 27 

Dif.partofox Wfltpr Nitrogenous F . 

compared VV e Substances * at 

% % % 

Neck 73.5 19.5 5.8 

Shoulder 50.5 14.5 34. 

Tenderloin 63.4 18.8 16.7 

Hind-quarter 55.05 20.81 23.32 

In this case the difference between shoulder and 
tenderloin as to the amount of water contained in 
each is striking. In the case of medium fat and lean 
animals, poor and good pieces approach each other 
more nearly in composition. 

We regret that the scope of this essay will not allow 
us to give drawings and full illustrations of the dif- 
ferent parts of an animal, with advice in detail as to 
what to buy. We are glad to mention in this connec- 
tion a former prize essay — " Healthy Homes and 
Foods for the Working Classes" — which gives much 
information needed by the housekeeper as to the 
qualities and comparative value of the meat from dif- 
ferent animals, of milk and milk products. 
Some meats com- Of butchers' meat beef must always 
pared. k e considered the most economical, its 
choice being governed by facts just stated. Fat mut- 
ton also ranks high. 

Pork. Say what we may against 
pork, it is a most valuable kind of 
meat, especially for the poor man, and the laws gov- 
erning its slaughter and sale should be so stringent 
as to protect him. The great importance of salt pork 
and bacon we have considered under "Fats." 

It is of little use to give rules about buying this 
meat • we must generally take what the butcher fur- 



28 Fish. 

nishes, but at least we can cook it well, never eating 
it raw even when well dried and smoked. 

Fish. From the standpoint of the 
economist fish is worthy of especial 
mention; nature does the feeding, we have only to 
pay for the catching. In the season when it is best 
and cheapest, fresh fish should be used freely. We 
have only to remind the housewife that she loses £ to 
\ of the weight of a fish in bones and head. 
Salted and smoked Salted and smoked fish is of great 
fish- importance as food, and not alone for 

people living on the sea-coast. Salted cod contains, 
according to Konig's tables, 30$ of Proteids, and this 
fact, together with its low price, fully justifies its 
popularity with all economical people. 

Other salted and preserved fish, as for instance, the 
herring, give variety in the diet of many a poor family. 

LIVER, HEART, ETC. 

internal Organs. Of the internal organs of animals gen- 
erally considered eatable, we really appreciate only the 
liver. The lungs, brains, kidneys, heart, and the 
stomach prepared as tripe, are good food and they are 
often sold very cheap in country towns. The head of 
most animals, as of the calf, is excellent for soups and 
other dishes, and in the country it is often given away. 

EGGS. 

Eggs compared To- get an idea of the comparative 

with meats as 

a food. value oi eggs as a iood let us compare 

them with medium fat beef. 

Water Proteids Fat 

% % % 

Medium fat beef has _. 72.5 21. 5.5 

Eggs have 74.5 12.5 12. 



Eggs. 29 

We see that while the water is nearly the same in 
both, the meat has the advantage in proteids and the 
eggs the advantage in fat, this fat, moreover, being 
of very fine quality. 

Take eggs at their cheapest, as in April when they 
often sell at 15 cents a dozen, that would be 12^ cents 
a pound, 10 eggs of average size weighing a pound. 
They could then be considered cheaper than the high- 
est priced cuts of meat, bat still much dearer than 
the cheaper parts, flank, neck and brisket, at 8 cents. 
So that even at this low price, they are somewhat of 
a luxury to the man who must get his proteid and fat 
in their cheapest form. 

And when we consider that only for a short time 
in the year is the price so low, — eggs being on an 
average quoted at 25 to 30 cents, the showing for them 
as a proteid rival of meat is poor indeed. Except in 
the Spring the economically inclined must be sparing 
of their use even in dessert dishes. When house- 
keepers say, as I have heard them, that eggs at 25 
cents a dozen are cheaper than meat, they must be 
speaking in comparison with very high priced meats. 

CHEESE. 

cheese (its food In America, cheese is regarded more 
value.) ag a j uxur y t] ian ag a s taple article of 

food, and yet 1 lb. of cheese is equal in food value to 
more than 2 lbs. of meat, it being very rich in both 
fat and proteids. Considering this, its price is very 
low and it ought to be a treasure to the poor man 
and do good service in replacing sometimes the more 
expensive meat. 



30 Food Value of Cheese. 

Use of cheese Its food value is fully recognized 

abroad. abroad. For the Swiss peasant it is a 

staple second only to bread, while the use of it in 
Italy and in Germany is extensive. The writer once 
spent several weeks in the house of a large farmer on 
the slope of Mt. Pilatus in Switzerland, and observed 
daily the food given to the harvesters; the luncheon 
sent twice a day to the fields consisted of a quarter 
section of the grayish skim cheese, accompanied with 
bread. I was told that the poor people in the region 
ate scarcely any meat, using cheese in its stead. 

The writer has also observed the use of cheese in 
Germany. Every locality has its special variety of 
the soft kind made of sour milk, and great amounts 
of the Swiss, both skim and full milk, cheese are con- 
sumed. It is generally eaten uncooked, but also as an 
addition to cooked food in a great variety of dishes. 
Digestibility of There is no doubt of the food value of 
cheese. cheese, but there does seem to be some 

question as to its digestibility. When we come to 
inquire into this point, we find that thorough experi- 
ments have been made by German scientists; Dr. 
Eiibner, a pupil of Voit, gives the result of experi- 
ments on himself. He found that he could not con- 
sume much of it alone, but with milk he took easily 
200 grams, or nearly \ lb., and only when he took as 
high as 517 grams or over a pound daily, was it less 
completely digested than meat. Prof. Konig says, 
that in the amounts in which it is generally eaten, 
125 to 250 grams daily (^ to \ lb.), it is as well digest- 
ed as meat or eggs. The extensive use of it abroad 
would seem to be some guarantee for the digestibility 
of the foreign varieties at least. 



Digestibility of Cheese. 31 

American cheeses have in general a sharper flavor 
than the foreign, still it is probable that well mixed 
with other food, enough could be taken many a time, 
to give a man his needed daily quantity of animal 
proteid, — between six and seven ounces, — and this is 
a matter of great importance from an economical point 
of view. 



METHODS OF COOKING MEAT. 



why cook. And first — why do we cook it at all? 

In the animal as well as in the vegetable world some 
foods are all ready for our digestion, as milk. Raw 
eggs too, are perfectly digestible and are often given 
to invalids. We hear, of " Raw meat cures," and 
it has been found that tender and juicy raw meat, if 
chopped fine to break the connective tissue, is well 
digested. 

But raw meat does not taste good to most of us, 
while the delicious flavor and odor of a broiled steak 
make it very acceptable to the palate, and we must 
believe to the stomach also. We "bring out the 
flavor," as we say, by cooking; what else do we do? 
Let us examine for a moment a piece of meat with 
structure of reference to the effect heat has upon it. 

meat. The red part is made up of, first, very 

tiny sausage-like bags, or muscle fibres as they are 
called, and in these is contained the precious proteid 
matter, flavors and salts all mixed together with 
water into a sort of jelly; second, these muscle fibres 
are bound together by strands of connective tissue, 
as that white stringy mass is called, in which the fat 
and blood vessels are lodged; this is also of food 
value, but inferior to the fibres. Third, dissolved 
in the juices floating between the fibres and strands, 

32 



Examination of Meat Fibre. 33 

there is also a proteid called soluble albumen. The 
little bags of proteid, when we can get at them, are 
as digestible in our stomachs as is the white of egg, 
though, like the egg again, their flavor is improved by 
slight cooking. But, as we have seen, they are 
imprisoned in the connective tissue, somewhat, we 
may say, as are the starch grains of the potato in the 
cellulose. 
Softening eonnec- This connective tissue we can soft- 

tive tissue. e n by heat, thereby turning it into 
a sort of gelatine, but unfortunately, unless the meat 
is very tender, this requires a longer application of 
heat than is needed to cook the delicate albumen all 
full of flavors too easily lost. To soften the connect- 
ive tissue without overcooking the albumen, is one 
of the problems of meat cookery. 

The next question is, how do our methods of cook- 
ing meet these requirements? 

COOKING MEAT IN" WATER. 

1st. Method. p u t a piece of lean meat into cold 
water, heat it very slowly and watch the effect. The 
water becomes slightly red, then cloudy, and as the 
heat increases, yellowish in color, and finally it clears, 
sending a scum to the surface. If we examine this 
scum, we find that the water has soaked out much 
soluble albumen and a large proportion of the salts 
of the meat as well as other substantives called extrac- 
tives; and now the odor of the boiling meat begins to 
fill the kitchen. The longer and slower the warming 
process, the more of all these things we shall extract, 
and the meat when taken out will be in just that 
proportion poor. 



34 First Method of Cooking Meat. 

Soup making. This is the process known as soup 

making, — very simple, if we care noth- 
ing for the piece of meat but to soak out of it all the 
food and flavors possible. After some hours of cook- 
ing we find it shrunken, gray and tasteless. A dog 
if fed on that alone could not live many days. How- 
ever, as we have before said, we are not to conclude, 
that it contains no more nutriment, but the stomach 
rejects it now that it is separated from all the flavoring 
matters. 

2nd Method. Now put a piece of meat into 

boiling water and continue the boiling. The sur- 
face of the meat suddenly whitens and a little 
scum rises on the water, though very little compared 
with what we saw in the former method. We have 
coagulated the albumen contained in all the little 
cells in the surface of the meat, and the soluble albu- 
men, flavoring matters and salts cannot get out; the 
sealing up is not quite perfect, enough escaping into 
the water to make it a weak soup, but it is a good meth- 
od of cooking a large piece if properly completed from 
this point. But if we go on boiling our meat, that is, 
keeping the temperature at 212°, we shall overcook 
the albumen in the outer layers before that in the 
center is coagulated. By overcooking, we mean 
making it horny and flavorless, as we do the white of 
an egg if we cook it in the old-fashioned way, by 
dropping into boiling water and keeping it at that 
heat. Having seared the outside of the meat to keep 
the juices in, we must lower the temperature. The 
albumen coagulates at between 160° and 170°, but 
the water in the kettle may be a little above this, as 



Second Method of Cooking Meat. 35 

it must constantly transfer heat to the interior 
of the meat. The general rule is that it should 
"bubble" or "simmer" only, and if the cook can do 
no better she must follow these indications. That 
the true temperature for cooking meat is below the 
boiling point, many an intelligent housekeeper knows, 
but how is she to know when the water is at 170°? 
Here we come upon the weakest point in household 
cookery ; various degrees of heat have different effects 
on the foods we cook, but of only one temperature is 
the housekeeper certain — that of boiling water. 

For the use of the thermometer and the heat saver 
see pages 43 and 44. 

But to return ; is there no way of cooking that will 
keep in the meat all these flavors and salts and albu- 
mens, just as nature mixed them ? Yes, there are 
three ways, — frying in fat, baking in an oven, and 
broiling over coals. 

We will examine the first. If we 
plunge a thin piece of meat, as a cut- 
let coated with egg and breadcrumbs, into boiling 
fat, the albumen in the surface or rather in that of 
the egg surrounding it is coagulated as in boiling, 
but this time the outer rind preserves the juices still 
better because the fat will not mix with them as will 
water. Everyone knows how an oyster cooked in 
this way retains its juices. 

When we bake a piece of meat in the 

Baking meat. . , . . , 

oven, we start m the same way; we 
sear the outside in fat, turning the roast about in a 
small quantity of fat made hot in a kettle; we then 
transfer it, still in the kettle or pan, to a hot oven 



36 Baking Meat. 

where the process of cooking is completed, but at 
short intervals we moisten the surface with the fat in 
the pan. If we did not baste the roast, we would 
find a thick layer of grey, tasteless meat inside the 
outer brown crust, and indeed the whole piece would 
dry long before the center of our roast had reached 
the coagulating point; we baste, in order to keep 
in the juices which, as we know, will not mix with 
the fat, and also that only a mild degree of heat, not 
exceeding the coagulating point of proteids, may be 
transmitted to the interior. In the intervals of our 
basting, some water is driven out of the meat and 
evaporated into steam, and the high heat of the oven 
expends itself in evaporating this, in heating the 
basting fat, and perhaps ( if it reach so high a tem- 
perature ) in decomposing part of it, and in changing 
the chemical character of small quantities of extrac- 
tives, thus making the meat " tasty," and so it hap- 
pens that only a mild degree of heat is passed into 
the center of the piece. We would hardly believe 
that the inside of a roast, with its light pink color, 
registers only 1G0° by the thermometer, yet this can 
be proved by anyone with a long chemist's thermom- 
eter. 

Although some of the water of our meat has evap- 
orated, the extractives and salts are retained to a 
larger extent than in boiling, as we shall see by the 
table given later. 

In broiling, the principle applied is 

Broiling. & ' l . , , - . , 

exactly the same as in baking, the 
cooking being done by the medium of heated air. 
The dry heat of the coals affects the outer layer of 



Broiling Meat. 37 

the meat, as does the hot air of the oven. In both 
these methods, just as in boiling, we try to hold 
the temperature of our cooking medium just high 
enough to keep the heat traveling toward the in- 
terior of the meat. 

We have now learned to cook the albumen enough 
and not too much and to keep the flavors of our meat; 
what about the connective tissue, and how has that 
fared with our different modes of cooking? 

If our meat is cut from the tenderer 
parts of an animal of the right age, well 
fed and fattened, and if it has been kept long enough 
after killing, the connective tissue will soften into 
eatable condition in the length of time required to 
cook the albumen by the methods described. Such 
meat, so cooked, will always be tender and full of 
flavor. 

But if the meat is cut from the 

Tough meat. , , . n .„ 

tougher parts, or from an old or ill- 
fattened animal, or cooked too soon after killing, the 
connective tissue will not soften in that time ; we 
must continue the application of heat till this tissue 
softens. 
Methods com- Therefore, what method of cooking 

trquaiiy' of we sha11 use > de P ends on the quality of 
meat. the meat we have. Trimmings and 

tough portions we will make into soup, expecting to 
chop the tasteless meat next day and add other flavors 
to make it palatable. Somewhat better pieces, but 
still requiring long cooking to soften the connective 
tissue, may be made into a stew or ragout; or if the 
piece is large and compact, boiled in water; but meat 



38 Methods Compared. 

that is tender and juicy (and for improving tough 
meat see page 45 ) should be boiled, baked or broiled, 
choosing oftenest the last two methods, because of 
the more perfect retention of the juices and the fine 
flavor given to the outer layer. 

We are told that baking or broiling 

2d, as to economy. . - , • i • , 

is a very wasteful way of cooking meat ; 
that if we would be truly economical we would always 
boil or stew, using our meat or its juices to flavor 
vegetables. From this we must dissent for it would 
condemn us to such a monotony as would be unen- 
durable even to the poor. Better sometimes a 
smaller piece of broiled or baked meat with its deli- 
cious and stimulating flavor, and make our soup of 
vegetables and season it with herbs. Besides, accord- 
ing to the scientists, baking and broiling are not 
wasteful methods. I quote from a table of Prof. 
Konig's, wherein are given the results of analysis of 
beef raw, after boiling and after "braten." Eaw, it 
contained .86 $ extractives (nitrogenous bodies most- 
ly; very important as giving the stimulating smell 

and taste) and 1.23$ salts. 

Extractives Salts 

Raw 86$ 1.23$ 

After boiling.. 40$ 1.15$ 

After "braten" .72$ 1.45$ 

The advantage is seen to be in favor of " braten " 
both in regard to extractives and salts. The loss of 
water was nearly the same in both cases. As for the 
fat lost in broiling a beef steak, that is indeed a loss, 
but one to be made up in some measure by the smaller 
quantity of fuel necessary to cook the meat. The 



Soup Making. 39 

loss of this fat need not be made so much of, until we 
have learned to do better in many other still more 
important directions. 

The philosophy of cooking meat according to the 
different methods has been treated, and we will now 
give a few additional directions as to carrying out 
these methods. 

SOUP MAKING. 

Materials for Soup Lean m eat of any sort, beef best; 
making. fresh, better than that long kept; 

bones of next value, especially the spongy rib bones 
and vertebrae. Saw and chop the bones into little 
pieces, — cut the meat small. Soft water is better 
than hard. 
Method of Keep a kettle, if possible, for this 

making. purpose alone, and add to it all bits of 

meat and bones as they accumulate. Put the meat 
into cold water, let it stand some hours if possible, 
heat very gradually and keep simmering. Two hours 
or less brings out all the flavors of the meat, but a 
much longer time is necessary to get all the nutri- 
ment from the bones. 

Do not remove the scum; it contains 
the albumen of the soup, and nothing 
objectionable if the meat was well cleaned. 

An hour before the soup is served add flavors; 
onions and carrots are the best, celery, summer sa- 
vory, and parsley next. Use others, as cloves, nut- 
meg, bay leaf, etc., only occasionally. Add salt and 
pepper just before serving. 

When done, strain and skim off all fat (better if 



40 Boiling Meat. 

left to stand till next day, the fat removed and the 
soup simply rewarmed), and make such additions as 
you wish. 

[We prefer our soups with the fat removed, but 
the laboring people of Europe with their hardy stom- 
achs find a soup much better if covered with "eyes."] 

These rules apply to all meat soups. Mutton 
makes a strong and nutritious soup, veal a delicate 
soup. An excellent soup is made from a calfs head. 

BOILING. 

Put the meat into boiling water, bring 

To boil meat. . , , . , ., , , „ 

quickly again to a boil and keep so for 
10 minutes, then lower the temperature (as see page 
35), and so keep it till the meat in the center has 
reached 160°-170°, or has changed in color from 
bluish to red, our usual test. For use of the " Cook- 
ing Safe" for this purpose, see page 44. Braising, 
"a la mode", kettle roasts, &c, are but modifications 
of this method. 

To make meat This is a combination of soup mak- 
stews. ing and boiling. Use inferior parts, 

cut in pieces and cook, at 170° if possible, till tender. 
Half an hour before serving, season in any way you 
wish. See page 47. 

FRYING IN FAT. 

How to prepare Lard if used for this purpose should 

Suet in which to,,., ,, , , , . , , . 

fry meat. be tried out at home, but beef fat is 

cheaper and if nicely prepared no one can object to 
the taste. 



Frying in Fat. 41 

Out the fresh suet in pieces, and cover with cold 
water; let it stand a day, changing the water once in 
the time. This takes out the peculiar tallowy taste. 
Now put it in an iron kettle, with a half teacup of 
milk to each pound of suet, and let it cook very 
slowly till the fat is clear, and light brown in color, 
and till the sound of the cooking has ceased. The 
pieces may be loosened from the bottom with a spoon, 
but it is not to be stirred; if it burns the taste is 
ruined. Now let it stand and partly cool, then pour 
off into cups to become cold; it smells as sweet as 
butter and can in many cases be used instead of it. 
The fat left still in the pieces may be pressed out for 
less particular uses. 

Any clean fat, even mutton, has its uses in cookery, 
and should be tried out and kept nicely. 
Oils for use in There are oils now sold which but 
frying. f or prejudice we would always use. 

Pure cotton seed oil is a fine oil with a delicate flavor; 
rape seed oil, which is used extensively abroad for 
this purpose, is also a pure vegetable oil, but some- 
what rank in flavor. It is treated thus: a raw pota- 
to is cut up and put into the kettle, heating with the 
oil and cooking till it is brown, it is then taken out 
and the oil used like lard. The potato has absorbed 
the rank flavor. 

Thin pieces of meat, like cutlets and chops, are 
coated with beaten egg and bread crumbs and cooked 
in boiling fat for 5-10 minutes, according to the kind 
of meat. 

Make some beef fat hot in an iron pan 
or broad kettle. Put the meat into it, 
4 



42 Baking Meat. 

and with a fork stuck into thafat part, turn it rapidly 
till it is on all sides a fine brown, then put it into a hot 
oven (about 340° F. ), elevating it above the pan on a 
meat rack, or a few iron rods. Now comes the pro- 
cess called basting; in five minutes or less 
you will find that the top of the meat 
has dried, and you must now dip, with a spoon, the 
hot fat from the pan over the top. Do this every few 
minutes adding no ivater to the pan; you will find 
your meat well cooked in from 12-15 minutes to the 
pound. It is done when it has lost, in the middle, 
the blue color, and become a fine red. Only salt and 
pepper should be used to season such a roast, and 
must be added when the meat is half done; if earlier, 
it toughens the fibres. 

But when fuel is expensive, or in 

To broil meat. , , . ~ 

summer when a hot nre is a nuisance, 
the perfectly cooked meat can also be obtained by 
broiling; the management of the fire is the only 
trouble. We are told that a beefsteak for broiling 
should be cut f of an inch thick, and put over a hot 
fire of coal or charcoal; quite right, but when it has 
browned quickly, as it should, and been turned and 
browned on the other side, it yet remains raw in the 
middle and if left longer, the surface burns. This is 
the experience of the novice, who has yet to learn 
two things; first, that immediately after the first 
browning, the fire must decrease in heat, or the meat 
be brought further away, so that the steak may cook 
10-12 minutes without burning — less time will not 
cook it nicely in the middle; and second, that like 
baked meat, the surface must be kept moist with hot 



Broiling Meat. 43 

fat. Before your steak is put over (unless it be 
very well streaked with fat), cover both sides with 
melted suet, and afterwards, as it dries, spread on 
a little butter or beef fat. Have ready in a hot 
platter a few spoonsful of water in which the bones 
cut from the steak have been boiling, also salt and 
pepper. When the steak is done, lay it in the platter 
and keep it hot for five minutes, turning it once in 
the time; thus you will have both good steak and 
good gravy. 

Professional cooks always use charcoal 

Use of charcoal. „ . . , . , . , z. . 

for broiling, and its advantages are 
great. As described on page 21 it needs only a sim- 
ple contrivance, easily adjusted to any stove; a hand- 
ful will broil a pound of steak, and the cooking of 
the rest of the dinner can go on without interference. 

USE OF THE THERMOMETER IN" COOKING MEAT. 

To cook meat at a temperature of between 150° 
and 160° F., is no easy matter with the usual kitchen 
appliances. Even over an easily regulated heater, as 
a gas or coal oil flame, how are we to know that tem- 
perature when it is reached ? The writer, knowing 
of no thermometer arranged for use in a kitchen, con- 
structed a simple one after the model of those used in 
laboratories. A thermometer tube registering 300° 
Celsius was simply fastened into a cork, the bulb 
projecting below and protected by a short cylinder of 
wood. This floated on the water and made it easy 
to cook at any given temperature. This thermome- 
ter was also hung in a light wire frame and used for 
testing the heat of an oven. 



44 The Heat Saver. 

THE HEAT SAVER. 

It is a part of common information that the in- 
habitants of northern countries make extensive use 
of non-conducting substances, like wool, for prevent- 
ing the escape of heat from a vessel in which cooking 
is going on. It is strange that we do not make more 
use of such appliances, for they have often been de- 
scribed and illustrated; it is probably because they 
are not found ready-made, and with a complete list 
of directions for use. The writer made and used a 
cooker of this sort, and after considerable modifica- 
tion and experiment it became a very useful thing 
in the kitchen. If you wish to cook meat at the 
proper temperature, this contrivance makes it possi- 
ble to do so, and is also very saving of fuel. 
Directions for Take a packing box measuring, sav, 

making Heat \ & °\ J ' 

Saver. * feet each way and cover the bottom 

with a layer of packed wool 4 to 6 inches thick ; set 
into the middle of this another box or a cylinder of 
sheet iron and fill the space between the two with 
a layer of wool, 4 to 6 inches thick and closely 
packed. Into the inner compartment put your ket- 
tle of meat or vegetables already brought to the boil- 
ing point and having a tightly fitting cover, and over 
this press a thick pillow or woolen blanket. Then 
fasten down tight over all, the lid of your box. As 
the heat in the water must finish the cooking already 
begun, its amount must be rightly proportioned to 
the amount of food to be cooked, e. g., two quarts of 
water to 1$ lbs. beef rib, were used. The water was 
brought to the boiling point, the meat placed in it 
and allowed to boil for five minutes, the pot was 



Treatment of Tough Meat. 45 

then tightly covered, placed in the box and allowed 
to remain three hours. At the end. of that time the 
meat was tender. 

TO MAKE MEAT TENDER. 

To make meat it j s we ll known that meat must be 
kept some time after killing to make it 
tender. In winter, a large piece of beef or mutton 
will keep for six weeks if hung in a dry, cool place. 
Indeed, this is the time allowed in England for the 
Christmas " shoulder of mutton," and every few days 
it is rubbed over with salt and vinegar. In summer, 
unless the butcher will keep the meat for you, you 
must resort to other means. 

A tough piece of meat may be laid in not too strong 
vinegar for 3 or 4 days in summer and twice as long in 
winter, adding to the vinegar such spices as you may 
like. To soften a tough steak pour a few spoonfuls 
of vinegar on and let stand for twelve or twenty-four 
hours. This method has been long recommended and 
is to some extent used among us; the foreign cook em- 
ploys sour milk for the same purpose and with even 
greater success, but this must be-changed every day and 
at the end of the time well washed from the meat. 

We cannot too strongly urge that the housekeeper, 
especially if she be straightened in means, should be- 
come used to these methods and practice them occa- 
sionally. She does not want to confine herself to soups 
and stews and she cannot buy "porter-house" steak 
at 20 or 25 cents a pound, but she can buy "round" 
at half that price, and after a little experiment can 
make it tender for boiling, roasting or broiling by one 
of these methods. In winter, she should buy a supply 
of meat ahead and keep it until it grows tender. 



RECIPES FOE COOKING MEATS. 



The methods of cooking meat having been treated 
and mention made of the parts adapted to each, 
it remains only to give practical hints as to making 
and varying dishes. 

BEEF. 

Boiled, roast and broiled beef have been sufficient- 
ly dwelt upon. See pages 40-43. 

stews and Ra- No mode of cooking meat has so 
gouts. many variations; the flavor of the 

meat being used to season vegetables of every sort, 
also doughs, as in dumplings, or in the crust of meat 
pie. For making meat stews see page 40. 

One-half hour before the meat is 
done lay on top of it peeled potatoes, 
all of the same size, and serve when done with the 
meat and gravy. 

When the meat is cooked tender, 
thicken the gravy and pour all into a 
pie or pudding dish. Cover with a common pie crust 
or one of mashed potatoes, and bake \ hour. 

You may also mix sliced raw potatoes with the stew, 
in layers. 

Potato Crust. 1 cup mashed potatoes, 1 egg, 2 
tablespoons butter, 1 cup of milk, salt. Beat to- 

46 



Beef. 47 

gether till smooth, and then work in enough flour so 
that you can roll it out. It should be \ in. thick, 
and as soft as you can handle. 

Add to meat when tender, 1 qt. to- 
matoes to 2 lbs. meat. Thicken with 
flour and stew 5 minutes. 

Stews are variously flavored : onion, 

Flavors for stews. , , , , , 

salt and pepper, are always in place. 
A little lemon juice added as it is served gives a deli- 
cious flavor, or even a tablespoon of vinegar may be 
used. Any herbs, a piece of carrot, a clove or bit of 
garlic, may be used for variety. Catsup is also good 
as a flavor. 

Comed Beef. Wash it well, put into plenty of cold 
water and bring slowly to the simmering point. 
Cook 3 to 4 hours. 

Turnips or cabbage are often eaten with corn 
beef. They should not be boiled with the meat but 
in a separate pot. 

If from a good animal, beef liver is 

often as tender as calf's liver. 

This is the best method. Soak an 

hour in cold water, wipe dry, slice and 
dip in melted beef fat. Broil slowly (see page 42) till 
thoroughly done; then salt and butter. 

When prepared as above, the slices of 

liver may be fried in a pan with a little 
beef fat. This gives an opportunity for more flavors, 
as onion may be fried with it, a little vinegar added to 
the juices that fry out, then thickened and used as 

gravy. 

If liver is not quite tender it can be 
made into a stew, or it may be chopped 



48 Recooking Beef. 

fine, mixed with bread crumbs and egg and baked ^ 

hour. 

If fire is no object, you may boil a 

beef's heart, it will take all day. Put 

into cold water and bring slowly to the simmering 

point and keep it there. Next day it may be stuffed 

with well seasoned bread crumbs and baked J hour. 

Cut in strips, soak in salt and vine- 
Tripe 

gar i day, wipe dry and fry in hot lard. 

It may also be stewed. 

RECOOKING BEEF. 

(A.) Boiled, baked or broiled beef which is ten- 
der and full of flavor. 

To serve roast beef a second time. 
Roast beef re- Heat the gravy, put the roast in it. 
served. After trimming it into shape again, 

cover closely and put into a hot oven for ten minutes 
or less according to size of piece. 

Or, cut in slices and lay in hot gravy only long 
enough to heat them through. 

Being full of flavor such meat may 
be chopped and mixed with from ^ to ^ 
as much chopped or mashed potatoes, bread crumbs 
or boiled rice. These mixtures may be warmed as 
hash, or made into cakes or balls to be fried on a grid- 
dle or in boiling fat. 

Mix the chopped meat with the potatoes, bread- 
crumbs or rice as above, add salt and pepper and 
make quite moist with water or soup. Put a good 
piece of butter or of beef fat into a spider, and when 
it is hot, put in the hash. Cover and let it steam, 



Recoolcing Soup Meat. 49 

then remove cover and let it dry out while a brown 
crust forms on the bottom. Or, stir till hot and 
dish immediately. 

Make not quite as moist as for hash, 

form into little cakes, dust with flour, 

and fry to a nice brown in a little beef dripping on a 

griddle. Or, egg and bread crumb the balls, and fry 

in boiling fat. 

(B.) KECOOKIKG SOUP MEAT. 

This meat, though made tender by long cooking, 
has given much of its flavor to the soup. It has 
not, to the same degree, however, lost its nutritive 
value; if we can make it taste good again, both palate 
and stomach will approve it. 

It will not do to mix this meat with neutral sub- 
stances like potatoes and bread; it needs addition 
rather than subtraction. 

In any case, first chop the meat very fine. 
Pressed soup Season the chopped beef well with 

meat. sa lt and pepper, and some other addi- 

tion, as celery salt or nutmeg, or some of the sweet 
herbs. Moisten with soup or stock, pack in a square, 
deep tin and place in the oven for a short time. To 
be sliced cold, or warmed as a meat hash to be served 
on toast. 
m, * n ^ When so good a dish as this can be 

Meat Croquettes. ° . . 

made out of soup meat, it is worth a 
little trouble. 

Ingredients. 2 cups of the chopped beef, 1 table- 
spoon butter, ,1 tablespoon flour, 1 egg, £ a lemon or 
1 tablespoon vinegar, a few gratings of nutmeg and 
i cup of stock or milk. 
5 



50 Veal 

Cook the flour in the butter and add the stock or 
milk and seasoning, then the beef, and cook, stirring 
all the time till the mass cleaves from the side of the 
kettle. Let it get cold, then make into little egg 
shaped balls, let them dry a little, roll in beaten egg 
and bread crumbs and fry in boiling fat. 

To vary — add £ as much chopped salt or fresh pork 
as you have meat. 

VEAL. 

This meat takes other flavors well and is used by 
cooks for all manner of fancy dishes. It is lacking 
in fat and for that reason easily dries in cooking; an 
addition of pork is always an advantage to the taste. 
It must be always well cooked, never rare. 

This may be a piece cut from loin, 

Roast Veal. , i ij ., . 

breast or shoulder, or a rib piece. 
Roast like beef (see page 35), allowing twice as long, 
or 1^-2 hours, for any piece under 4 lbs. 
Broiled veal Outlets, chops and steaks are broiled 

chops. like beef, but slower and twice as long 

and must be buttered and floured to prevent drying. 
Should be served with a tomato or onion sauce. 
Cook like beef stew, see page 46. 

Veal Stew. T , , . , . ,, * & 

It may be varied in the same way, 

and is generally more highly seasoned. Especially 
good as pot-pie. Salt pork should be added to it. 
Liver, Sweet- Veal liver, sweetbreads and heart are 
Heart. all tender and excellent, but high priced, 

especially the sweetbreads. Liver and heart are pre- 
pared like the same parts in beef (see page 47), but the 
heart cooks tender in two hours. This latter is an ex- 



Mutton and Lamb. 5J 

cellent dish, do not soak it — stuff with well seasoned 
bread crumbs and bake, basting well. 

MUTTON" AND LAMB. 

Mutton and The quality of mutton is so varying 

Lamb. that when cooked the dish is often a dis- 

appointment. The influence of long keeping or 
" hanging" upon it is even more beneficial than upon 
beef. 

Fat of Mutton. Some cooks trim 

Mutton Fat. i-. j. . . - 

away every bit of fat from mutton. It 
is perfectly wholesome, but sometimes gets a taste 
from coming in contact with the hide or hair of the 
animal; hence the prejudice. Scrape the outside of 
the meat well, pulling off the dried skin and cutting 
away the dark ends. 

Unlike beef, other pieces besides the 

PIgcgs to rofist 

rib are good for roasting; the loin and 
haunch are most economical, the shoulder next, the 
leg next. Roast like beef, see page 35. 

Unless the meat is first class, do not roast, but boil 
it. The leg is of tenest used for this purpose. 

Simmer about 12 minutes to the 
pound ; that is the rule, but very fre- 
quently the meat when it comes on the table, will 
be tough, owing entirely to the difference in the qual- 
ity of the meat. Such meat must be boiled twice as 
long, or is better cooked in a stew. 

The chop is oftenest broiled and is 
a famous dish. Cut f in. thick, and 
broil rare like beef. 

Chops and cutlets are excellent fried in fat. See 
page 40. 



52 Pork. 

Mutton stew. This is the most economical and per- 

haps the most satisfactory of all mutton dishes. The 
inferior parts, as the neck, are as good as any for this 
purpose. Proceed exactly as with beef stew. 
A good stew is made from sheep's kidneys. 

These may be mentioned because 

Sheep tongues. , . , , , n 

sometimes thrown away or sold very 
cheap. Clean well, and simmer 1£ hours, with a 
little pork and onion. Add to the gravy 1 table- 
spoon of vinegar. 

All these recipes for mutton apply to the cooking 
of lamb ; remembering however, that lamb, like veal, 
must be thoroughly cooked. 

POKE. 

Pork does not need to be kept in order to be ten- 
der, that is one of its great recommendations to the 
housekeeper. It is also easily cooked and we may 
lay aside some of the precautions we use regarding 
beef: The lean of fresh pork however, is apt to dry 
in cooking. 

The leg, the loin and the chine are 

Roasting pieces. n . . . n j i • i 

good roasting pieces as well as the rib. 
Pork is so rich in flavor that it seasons finely a bread 
crumb dressing, to which add a little sage and vin- 
egar or chopped pickles. Bake separately, and lay 
around it when served. Or better, though more 
trouble, make holes in the roast and force the stuff- 
ing in. 

Put directly into a hot oven in a pan containing 
some hot fat, and baste very frequently till done. 
Allow at least 20 minutes to the pound. 



Ham. 53 

steaks and chops. Steaks and chops are broiled, but the 
surface must be kept well moistened with butter or 
beef fat, or they will be dry and tasteless. 

Fresh pork is seldom boiled and it is 
too fat for a stew, though the lean may 
be selected and cooked like beef stew. It makes also 
an excellent potpie, or meat pie. See page 46. 

Pig's liver is good cooked like beef's 
liver, and is cheaper. See page 47. 
The cooking of this is very simple. 

Pork Sausage. -^ . . . . J r , 

.bry brown m a frying pan on the 
stove, or better, set the pan in a hot oven, you will 
then avoid the sputtering of the fat. 

HAM, SALT PORK AND BACON". 

Ham may be cooked in any way in which fresh 
pork is cooked. It may be cut in ■£ in. slices, or 
thinner, and broiled or fried lightly in a pan. If 
long cooked it becomes tough and dry. If too salt 
for this, it may be soaked a half hour in warm 
water. 

A large piece of ham is best boiled. If very salt, 
soak it in cold water for 24 hours, then put into 
cold water, bring slowly to a boil, and simmer half 
a day if the ham is of good size. A ham may also be 
baked. 

Dishes from cold So highly flavored a meat can be 
ham. used in numberless ways, especially 

combined with vegetables and bread. 

Chop 4- lb. fine, season with mus- 

Sandwiches. , -, -, -. . T i 

tard, pepper and 1 tablespoon vinegar. 
Spread between slices of buttered bread. 



54 Salt Pork and Bacon. 

Ham cakes. Take 1 cup finely chopped boiled 

ham, 2 cups of breadcrumbs, 2 eggs, pepper and salt, 
and enough milk to make quite moist. 

To use. 1st. Fry on a griddle in small spoonfuls, 
and turn as pancakes. 

2d. Use mashed potatoes instead of breadcrumbs, 
and fry as above. 

3d. Take either of the above mix- 

Croquettes. . . 

tures, using, however, little or no milk, 
make into little balls and after rolling in egg and bread- 
crumbs, fry in boiling fat. 

4th. With eggs. Put either of these 
mixtures into a baking dish; smooth the 
surface and make little hollows in it with the bowl of 
a spoon. Put in the oven till hot, then break an egg 
into each depression, and return to the oven till the 
eggs are set. 

Broiled salt Pork After slicing thin, freshen salt pork 
and Bacon Dv laying in cold water over night or -j- 
hour in warm water. Broil till transparent and a 
delicate brown in color. Broil bacon without freshen- 
ing. 

Less delicate than broiled, but much 

more economical, because saving the 

fat. Fry only till transparent. Salt pork must be 

first freshened. To make milk gravy of the fat, see 

"meat and vegetable sauces," page 73. 

Both salt pork and bacon are boiled with vegeta- 
bles. 

Bacon or Pork and Cabbage. This is a favorite 
mixture, and if the cabbage is only boiled half an 
hour and not in the same pot with the pork, it is not 



Fresh Fish. 55 

an indigestible dish. Put the pork into cold water, 
bring slowly to a boil and simmer from -J- to 2 hours, 
according to size of piece. 

Cook 1 qt. dried peas according to 

Pork and Peas. ,. ,. - *-#«» t* -i 

directions for pea soup, page 117. Boil 
pork with the peas during the last hour, or after 
parboiling, bake like pork and beans. 

Cook 1 qt. beans according to soup 

Pork and Beans. . „ ., u . n 

recipe, page 117. Parboil 1 lb. salt side 
pork, score the skin in squares, half bury in the beans 
and bake 2 hours, or till a nice brown. 
Pork and Pota- Slice a dozen potatoes thin, also £ lb. 
toes- fat salt pork, put into a pudding dish 

in alternate layers, seasoning with salt and pepper 
(only a little of the former). Bake, covered, \ hour, 
uncover and brown. 

Fruits seasoned with meat juices and 

Pork and Apples. , , . , . .,, 

fats, instead of with sugar, are not 
enough known among us. 

Slice sour apples round in slices \ in. thick with- 
out peeling, and fry with strips of pork or bacon. 
Serve together. 

FRESH FISH. 

The varieties of fresh fish are numberless, and to 
cook and serve them in perfection requires careful 
study from the cook. The subject must here be 
treated very briefly. 

Fresh fish may be cooked in any of the ways appli- 
cable to meat ; the length of time being much shorter, 
and care being required on account of the delicacy of 
the fibre. This makes broiling somewhat difficult. 



56 Salt Fish. 

Small fish are perhaps best egged and bread crumbed 
and fried m hot fat. 

This dish deserves especial mention 

Fish Chowder. , „ . . , , , n 

because of its cheapness and good fla- 
vor. It may be made of any fresh fish. 

Fill a pudding dish with the fish cut in pieces, 
seasoning each layer with salt and pepper, and bits 
of suet or fat pork ; put over it a potato crust as for 
meat pie ( see page 46 ), or a soda biscuit crust, and 
bake. Bread crumbs or sliced potatoes may be mixed. 
with the fish, and more seasoning used. 

Fresh fish can also be made into 
soups, and the cheaper kinds should be 
more used for this purpose. 

Cook 1 tablespoon of flour in 1 table- 

Codfish Soup. a jj -.1 -n 

spoon of butter. Add 1| qts. milk, or 
milk and water, and when it boils stir in 1 teacup of 
cold boiled codfish that has been freed from skin and 
bones and then chopped fine or rubbed through a 
sieve. Add salt and pepper to taste. 
Bullhead or cat- An excellent soup can be made of 

fish soup. this cheap fish. 

Clean and cut up 2 or 3 lbs. and boil an hour in 2 
qts. water with an onion and a piece of celery or any 
herbs (it must be well seasoned). Then add 1 cup 
of milk and a piece of butter or beef fat, or a piece 
of salt pork cut in bits may be boiled with the fish. 

SALT FISH. 
Salt Cod. This j s one of the cheap foodg that 

seems to be thoroughly appreciated among us, and 
good ways of cooking it are generally understood. 



Fowls. 57 

It must be freshened by laying it in water over 
night ; put into cold water and bring gradually to a 
boil; set the kettle back where it will keep hot for 
half an hour, separate the flakes and serve with a 
milk sauce. 

This favorite dish is prepared by 

adding to codfish, boiled as above and 

finely shredded, a like quantity of mashed potato. 

Make into balls and fry on a griddle or in boiling fat. 

Any other fish can be used in the same way. 

FOWLS. 

The flesh of fowls cannot rank among cheap foods, 
but in any economical family the Sunday dinner may 
often be a fricassee made of a fowl no longer young. 
Unless very ancient, the flavor of such a fowl will be 
richer than that of a chicken ; we have but to cook 
it till it is tender. 

Old Fowl Fric- Cut into joints, put into cold water 
asseed an d bring slowly to a simmering heat ; 

on no account let it boil, — keep it as nearly as pos- 
sible at 170° for 3 or 4 hours, or till it is very tender. 
At the end of 2 hours, add a sliced onion and salt 
and thicken the gravy. 

None but the wealthy should use 

Chicken Soup. , . , „ -, , » , -, ■, 

chickens ior soup, but from the bones 
left of baked or fricasseed chicken a good and eco- 
nomical soup can be made. Boil an hour or two, 
take out the bones, thicken a little and serve with 
bread dice fried in butter. 

An excellent soup can be made of the 

giblets, that is, heart, liver and neck of 
chicken, and other fowls, which in city markets are 



58 Eggs. 

sold separately and very cheap. Cut in small pieces 
and boil 2 hours with onion and herbs, then add a 
little butter and thickening, salt and pepper. 

EGGS. 

The importance of eggs is to be estimated from 
various points of view; their food value is great, 
their digestibility when fresh is almost perfect, and 
they can be cooked in so many ways and are a neces- 
sary ingredient of so many dishes, that the cook could 
ill spare them. Indeed, in all countries, their con- 
sumption seems to be limited only by their price. 

After the first twenty-four hours an 
egg steadily deteriorates. Physicians 
say, "never give to an invalid an egg that is more 
than two or three days old." 

There are methods in use for preserving eggs fresh, 
on the principle of excluding air by sealing up the 
pores of the shell, but none of them are without risk 
and they cannot be recommended to one who must 
economize closely. It is better to go without eggs as 
nearly as possible in winter. 

Eggs are as digestible raw as cooked, 

and one easily comes to like the taste of 

a fresh raw egg beaten to a foam and mixed with a 

little milk or water and sugar flavored with a little 

nutmeg or jelly. 

To soft boil an egg its temperature 

Soft Boiled Eggs. s]ionld not be raiged aboye 170O> The 

white will then be a jelly-like, digestible substance, 
but if exposed to a higher temperature, the white 
becomes horny while the yolk remains uncooked or 



Egg Dishes. 59 

becomes pasty. There are two methods of boiling an 
egg properly, which may be adopted according to 
convenience. 

1st. Allow 1 qt. of boiling water to 4 eggs. Use a 
pail or jar ( heated before the water is put in ) and 
wrap around with a flannel cloth. The eggs will be 
done in 6 minutes, but are not harmed by ten. 

2d. Put the eggs into cold water and bring slowly 
to a boil. They are done when the water begins to 
boil. 

To boil an egg hard, it is no more 

Hard Boiled Eggs. , ., / , ■ -, a 

necessary to expose it to a high degree 
of heat than in the case of the soft boiled ; the heat 
must simply be much longer continued, 20 minutes 
to a half hour. The egg will then be solid but not 
horny as when cooked in boiling water. 

A great many attractive dishes can be made of cold 
boiled eggs. 

scrambled, These are but different modes of cook- 

aud baked eggs. ' ing eggs soft or solid. The taste will 
be more delicate and they will be more digestible if 
in these cases also only the low degree of heat above 
mentioned be applied — more time being given them 
than is usually allowed. 

EGG DISHES. 

These dishes under many names and in many forms 
are of next importance after meats, composed, as they 
generally are, of eggs and vegetables or some prepara- 
tion of the grains, while numberless additions and fla- 
vors are used to give variety and make the dish tempt- 
ing to the eye and palate. Eggs so prepared have their 
full nutritive value; not so in rich puddings and cakes, 



60 Egg Dishes. 

where they are mixed with more sugar and fat than 
the system can take up in any quantity. 

The following are a few recipes that have not been 
included under other heads. Many others will be 
found under the Cooking of the Grains. 

1 cup of hard bread partly softened in 

Bread omelet. , , .,, . , , , 

hot water and milk, or in cold water 
(in which case press in a cloth and crumble), add ^ of a 
chopped onion, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 egg, 
salt and pepper. Heat in the frying pan or square 
baking pan, some bits of suet or beef fat, and pour 
in the omelet. Cover and bake five minutes, then 
uncover and brown. Or it may be cooked slowly on 
top of the stove. Cut in pieces and serve around the 
meat or with a gravy. 

Bread, fresh or stale, is cut in loner 

Egged bread. , . . .,, 

strips, or in squares or rounds with a 
cake cutter. Let them soak till soft but not broken, 
in 1 pt. of salted milk into which two eggs have been 
beaten. Bake a nice brown or fry on a griddle in 
half suet and half butter. (May be made with one 

Fry a small onion, sliced, in a tea- 
spoonful, of butter or fat; fill the pan 
with 2 cups of cold sliced potatoes, salt and pepper 
them, and pour over them 2 beaten eggs. Bake slowly 
till it is just solid and turn out carefully on a plat- 
ter. Or, 1 cup potatoes and 1 cup bread crumbs 
may be used. 

1 cup cold boiled rice, 2 teaspoons 

Rice omelet. .,, ^ , . u »«-■ -, 

milk, 1 egg, \ teaspoon salt. Mix and 
pour into a pan in which a tablespoon of butter has 



Cheese Dishes. 61 

been heated. Fry and double over when done. Or, 
it may be baked like potato omelet. 

1 egg, 1 cup milk, 2 tablespoons flour, 

Flour omelet. ^.^ Qf ^ ^ ^ beaten white q£ 

the egg last. 

This is the "Yorkshire Pudding" which is cooked 
in the pan over which beef is roasting; it is cut in 
squares and served around the meat. It may also be 
baked in a buttered pan without meat. 

3 eggs, 1 cup flour (scant), 1 table- 
Tomato omelet. g p 0(m £ ne ] ier k Sj sa it an d cayenne pep- 
per, 1 tablespoon sugar, juice of 2 large tomatoes and 
1 cup warm milk. Bake under roasting meat, or alone 
in a buttered pan. 

CHEESE DISHES. 

Almost any cheese will give a good result in these 
dishes. Crumbly cream cheese is richer in taste and 
has also been shown to be more quickly digested. 
Skim cheeses are as nutritious except in fat, and in 
some dishes, as in "Fondamin" give a better result. 
Grate old cheeses, chop new and soft ones. 

Grate old cheese and serve with bread 

Grated cheese. ^ butter> j t ig algQ a good addition to 
mashed potato, to flour porridges, to oatmeal and 
and wheat flour porridges, to rice, sago, tapioca and 
indeed to any starchy foods; it should be stirred 
in while these are quite hot. Its use with macaroni 
is given elsewhere. 

cooked cheese The "basis of these dishes is toasted 

with bread, bread (white or graham) arranged on a 

platter, and enough salted water poured on to soften it. 



62 Cheese. Dishes. 

1. Grate enough old cheese to cover the toast pre- 
pared as above. Set in the oven to melt, and put 
the slices together as sandwiches. This is the simplest 
form of " Welsh Rarebit.' 

2. i lb. cheese, 1 tablespoon butter and 1 cup milk. 
Stir till smooth over a gentle fire or in a water bath 
and spread over the toast. 

3. £ lb. cheese, 1 tablespoon butter, 2 egg yolks, 
•J teaspoon mustard, a pinch of cayenne pepper. Stir 
to smooth paste, spread on the toast and set in a hot 
oven for 4 minutes. 

4. To each person allow 1 egg, 1 tablespoon 
grated cheese, £ teaspoon butter or 1 tablespoon milk, 
a little salt and pepper (cayenne best). Cook like cus- 
tard in a pail set in a kettle of hot water, stirring 
till smooth, it may then be used on toast or poured 
out on a platter. It may also be steamed 5 minutes 
in little cups, or baked very slowly for 10 minutes. 

5. Slices of bread lightly buttered, 3 eggs, 1| cups 
milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 cup grated cheese. Soak the 
bread in the milk and egg till soft but not broken. 
Lay the pieces in a pan, cover with the cheese and 
bake or steam. 

Fondamin or This is a famous foreign dish, and 

Fondue. although it may seem to have a good 

many ingredients, it is really not much trouble to 
make. 

i lb. of grated cheese (skim better than cream) add 
to 1 gill of milk, in which is as much bicarbonate of 
potash as will lie on a three cent piece, \ teaspoon 
mustard, \ saltspoon white pepper, a few grains of cay- 
enne, 1 oz. butter, a grating of nutmeg and 2 table- 



Milk. 63 

spoons baked flour. Heat carefully till the cheese is 
dissolved. Add 3 beaten eggs and stir till smooth. 
This mixture should be baked separately for each per- 
son in patty pans or paper cases and eaten imme- 
diately. All cheese dishes should be served very hot. 

MILK. 

Milk is sometimes called the one perfect food, con- 
taining all the constituents in their right proportions. 
This is true only for the requirements of a baby, but 
it remains for any age a valuable food when rightly 
supplemented. 

Milk contains on the average 3.31$ proteids, 3.66$ 
fat, 4.9$ carbohydrates, 87.41$ water, and .70$ salts. 

The housewife, if she wishes to use milk with 
economy, will not in cooking use it as such, but 
with due regard to the different values of the cream 
and the skim parts. In cities skim milk is sold for 
about one-half the price of full milk, and is well 
worth it if pure, but it is too often mixed with water. 
As soon as milk comes into the house 
it should be boiled, as it is a notorious 
carrier of disease germs which only in this way can 
be killed. Use an earthenware pitcher and let the 
milk remain standing in the same after cooking. 
The next day remove the cream for the morning's 
coffee, and use the skim part during the day for cook- 
ing, with or without the addition of a little butter. 
To keep milk sweet in warm weather 
is a serious question to the housekeeper 
who has no cellar or refrigerator. It is of first im- 
portance that the vessels used to contain it should be 



64 Milk. 

scrupulously clean. Boiling, as above mentioned, 
and cooling it rapidly afterwards, will keep it sweet 
for 24 hours, unless the weather is very warm, and 
the time may be further extended by keeping the 
milk pitcher set in a dish of cold water. A quarter 
of a teaspoonful of baking soda to a quart of milk, 
added while it is still sweet, may be used in case of 
necessity but this is not to be commended for com- 
mon use. 

A method that the writer has em- 

Canning Milk. . . . 

ployed is this : simply canning the 
milk as one would can fruit. Fill glass jars and screw 
down the lids, then place them in a steamer over cold 
water ; heat the water gradually and steam the jars 
for an hour, then tighten the tops. I have never 
kept milk so treated for more than a week, but see 
no reason why it should not keep much longer. 

However, if you find yourself with 

sour milk on your hands, do not throw 
it away, it has many uses. Buttermilk is also very 
valuable to the housewife ; it can be kept a long time 
in good condition for mixing doughs by covering 
with water, which must, however, be often changed 
for fresh. 

USES FOR SOUR MILK AN"D BUTTERMILK. 
Bonny Clabber. p u £ s ^[ m m ilk into a glass dish or 

into tea cups and set away until it becomes solid. 
Then eat with sugar and powdered cinnamon sprink- 
led over it. 

Set thick sour milk where it will 

age eese. ^ ea £ gradually till the curd separates, 

then pour into a bag and let it drip till dry. Salt 

well, and add a little cream or milk and melted butter. 



Sour Milk and Buttermilk. 65 

1st. As a drink. For this it should 

Buttermilk. , „ , 

be very fresh. 
2d. Buttermilk soup. (Seepage 123.) 

Both buttermilk and sour milk can 

Uses for both. . , 

be used 

1st. In making soda biscuit dough (see page 102.) 

2d. In pancakes of all kinds (see page 103.) 

3d. In corn bread (see page 103.) 

4th. In some kinds of cake, as in gingerbread, 
cookies and doughnuts, where they are by many cooks 
preferred to sweet milk; and in almost any kind of cake 
sour milk may be substituted for sweet, remembering 
always to use only half the quantity of cream of tartar 
called for in the recipe. 
6 



FATS A1STD OILS. 



The third food principle, Fats, stands between the 
two great nutrients, Proteids on the one hand and 
Carbohydrates on the other, and we find that we can 
indulge in considerable latitude as to its use. When 
we wish to get our food in a more condensed form, 
we can use fats freely in connection with proteids 
and lessen the amount of carbohydrates. In army 
dietaries the amount of fat is largely increased for 
marching, and for great exertion the quantity be- 
comes three times that allowed in garrison life. For 
instance, the daily rations served out to the German 
soldiers in France during the month of August, 1870, 

contained 

Proteids Fats Carbohydrates 

Army Dietary. ^ gmg _ m gmg _ g gi ^ 

It was represented by 1 lb. 10 oz. of bread, about 
1^ lbs. of meat, and over -J lb. of bacon besides an 
allowance of coffee, tobacco and wine or beer. Prof. 
Kanke has called this an admirable diet for fighting 
men. In garrison life these soldiers would have re- 
ceived only 56 grams of fat, and 120 grams of pro- 
teids while the carbohydrates would have been in- 
creased to 500 grams or more. 

On the other hand, fat when coupled with enough 
carbohydrate food can replace some of the proteid, 
and often does so in the food of hardy and econom- 

66 



Importance of Fats. 67 

Diet of Bavarian ical people. The Bavarian woodchop- 
woodchopper. p G r is enabled by his splendid digestion 
to arrange his diet in the following way : he takes 
little proteid from the animal kingdom, but in order 
to get enough of it from vegetable products, he must, 
as we know, take in an immense quantity of the 
starch associated with it, and to this he adds a great 
quantity of fat. Von Liebig says that such a man 
takes on the average 

Proteids Fats Carbohydrates 

112 gms. 309 gms. 691 gms. 

We see therefore that we can have a sliding scale 
for fat; that while we should not go below 2 oz. a day, 
we may, in case we lower one or both of the other 
two great constituents, go up to 8 or 9 oz. 
importance of People belonging to the well-to-do 
Fat not realized, classes, unless they have given special 
study to the subject, seldom realize the importance 
of fat in our economy. Fat means to then! fat meat, 
suet, lard and the like, and the much eating of these 
is considered proof of a gross appetite; they do not 
consider how much fat they take in eggs, in milk, in 
grains like oatmeal and maize, in the seasoning of 
their varied dishes, and in their well-fattened meats, 
where, as in an average piece from a very fat mutton, 
they eat twice as much fat as proteid without knowing 
it. 

Indeed, a well fed man of the upper classes may 
have more fat in his daily diet than has the freshly 
arrived Mechlenburg laborer who spreads a quarter 
inch layer of lard on his bread. The latter cannot 
take his fat in unsuspected forms; he craves this 



68 Substitutes for Butter. 

principle with his plain vegetable diet, and must take 
it as he can get it. 

Now let us understand that where economy is to be 
considered, this question of fat does not take care of 
itself as it does for the rich man. The economical 
housewife should always keep in mind that she must 
furnish her family enough fat, and furnish it cheaply. 
Substitutes for Butter is a dear fat ; count out the 
Butter. water in it and see what it costs you. 
We must economize in butter in as many ways as 
possible. "We must eat more fat meat, first, that 
which is ingrained with the lean where it takes the 
place of water, as we have seen under " Proteids," 
costing us practically nothing; when we eat our 
vegetables seasoned with such a piece of meat, we 
find them sufficiently seasoned. We must also eat 
more of fat meat which we recognize as such, taking 
pains to cook it so that it will be palatable; the 
crisp, brown outside of a roast is always welcome, but 
the fat of boiled beef or mutton will also be relished 
if served very hot. An excellent selection in low- 
priced beef, is the fat middle rib ; the lean part is 
very tender and juicy when cooked in water at a low 
temperature for two or three hours ( or in Heat Saver, 
see page 44, for three or four hours ) and the fat, if 
served hot, any but a pampered taste will relish. 
Too much cannot be said in praise of pork as furnish- 
ing a good tasting and cheap fat ; it can be cooked in 
many ways and used to flavor vegetables, etc. 
Digestibility of It is consoling to the economist to 
Fat. know that little of this food prin- 

ciple will be wasted in the body. Fat is more com- 



Artificial Butter. 69 

pletely absorbed, according to the testimony of the 
experimenters, than any other kind of food, even 
meat. 

We want to say a few words as to the character of 
different animal fats, and then we are done with this 
subject. 

All the fats consumed by us, without exception, are 
composed of three bodies called neutral fats, mixed 
together in varying proportions. These three bodies 
are "olein," "palmatin" (margarin), and "stearin," 
and the chief difference between them is that they 
melt at different temperatures; the more olein a 
fat has, the more easily it melts, and the less it has, 
the more it is like tallow. In vegetable oils, we find 
in addition to these, small quantities of what are 
called "fatty acids," and in butter we have beside the 
three common fats, a small per cent of four scarcer 
ones. 

Practically therefore, all fats are 

Fats compared. , . , , , , , , . , , 

alike, and when absorbed they do 
the same work in the body, their varying flavors 
and their colors having nothing to do with this. 

However, their flavor, their appearance and the 
ease with which they melt in the mouth and in the 
digestive tract have much to do with our estimation 
of them as foods. Mutton fat will do our body the 
same service as butter, but because of the relatively 
small amount of olein it contains, we have difficulty 
in swallowing it. 

As to the comparative digestibility of these fats, it 
is generally admitted that those which melt at a low 
temperature, like butter and vegetable oils, are most 



70 Artificial Butter. 

readily taken up by the system; it is thought that 
we could digest beeswax if it would melt in the 
stomach. Still, although butter stands in common 
estimation as the most digestible, as it is the most 
palatable of the fats, the stomach finds no trouble in 
disposing of reasonable amounts of any fat used in 
the household. 

The fact that all fats are so similar 

Artificial Butter. . ... , . , . . „ , . 

in composition, and that, it once di- 
gested, they will do the same service in the body, 
first led scientists to try to make out of the cheaper 
fats a substitute for butter. It was Napoleon III 
who set the chemist Mege-Mourier at work to dis- 
cover an artificial butter for use in the army. This 
chemist added butter color and flavors made in the 
laboratory, to olein and margarin extracted from beef 
suet, and mixed with this a little real butter, and so 
successful was the result, that the making of artifi- 
cial butter has become a great industry. Now cer- 
tainly no one objects to artificial butter on the ground 
that it is made of animal fats, for he eats these every 
day on his table ; he objects because he has doubts as 
to the cleanliness or the healthfulness of its method 
of manufacture. 

Therefore since the substitution, to some extent, 
of animal fats for butter is from an economic stand- 
point so desirable, if we cannot bring ourselves to 
use oleomargarine we must do the best we can in 
these kitchen laboratories of ours to make other fats 
than butter acceptable to the taste. 



Uses of Fats. 71 

USES OF FATS. 

Beef suet, its Beef suet has many uses. It should be 
bought perfectly fresh, that surround- 
ing the kidneys being chosen as of the best quality. 
Chopped fine, it is used in suet puddings, and may 
be employed to enrich other puddings made of skim 
milk, as a rice pudding; it combines well with 
bread crumbs in any hot dish, in bread puddings, 
bread stuffing, bread omelet and soup balls. In all 
cases it must be chopped fine and cooked sufficiently 
to fully incorporate it with the other materials. 
Suet may also be used in many flour dishes instead 
of butter, if they are only cooked long enough and 
eaten warm, also in all cake where molasses and 
spices or any strong flavor is used. 

Every bit of marrow in bones should 

Marrow 

be scraped out and carefully used. Its 
taste is more delicate than that of suet, and it can be 
substituted for butter even in fine cake. 

Whatever butter you use in cooking 

Butter tried out. , ,,, 77-1,1 n • i 1 

should be cooked butter which may be 
prepared when butter is cheap and put away for 
winter use. So prepared it will keep as long as lard. 
A second quality of butter may be used for this, or 
that which is beginning to be rancid; if already so, 
add i teaspoon soda to each pound, but such butter 
when tried out will not keep as long as that made 
from sweet butter. In trying out butter great 
care must be taken not to burn it. Put it in a 
large iron kettle and cook it down very slowly until 
you no longer hear the sound of boiling ; it will then 
begin to froth and rise and this is a sure sign that 



72 Preparation of Fats for Cooking. 

the process is completed. Set the kettle back to cool 
a few moments, then skim and pour off the butter 
from the dregs into jars. Keep in a cool place and 
closely covered. In any recipe use £ less than of fresh 
butter. 

This should be done with even more 
care, to avoid the tallowy flavor. Exact 
directions are given in " Cooking Methods," page 41. 
The "scraps" are often relished by children. 

This beef fat (which we decline to call tallow) 
should be put away in cakes in a jar closely covered. 
To use it, scrape it fine, sprinkling a 
little flour in it to keep it light. So 
prepared it may be used in any of the ways mentioned 
under "suet," and to this list still others may be 
added, since it does not need, as does suet, long cook- 
ing in order to mix it well with the other ingredients 
of the dish. It can be used successfully in warm 
breads of all kinds, and in all but the nicest cakes 
if mixed with % butter. 

Much of the lard now furnished is so 
poor, that unless one pays a high price 
to a well known dealer, it is better for each house- 
keeper to buy the leaf lard and try it out herself. 

Cut fine and cook all the water out, taking care not 
to burn. 

The "scraps" are even better than those left from 
suet and should by no means be thrown away. 

SAUCES FOE MEAT A^D VEGETABLES. 

The economical and busy housewife says she has no 
time nor money for sauces, but the fact is she cannot 
afford to do without them. 



Sauces. 73 

All vegetables must have some fat to season them 
and to use butter in every case is extravagant and 
gives no variety, while a cheaper fat if made into a 
sauce with flour and water, can be flavored in a dozen 
ways. 

DRAWK BUTTER SAUCES. 

Drawn butter, which is the foundation of most of 
the sauces is thus made. 

piain A heaping tablespoon of butter or beef 

fat is put into a saucepan; when it boils, 
1 heaping tablespoon flour is added and stirred as it 
cooks. To this add gradually 1 pt. of water, 1 tea- 
spoon salt and i teaspoon of pepper. If you wish to 
unite economy and good flavor use i tablespoon of 
beef fat in making the sauce, and add -J tablespoon 
butter, cut in little pieces, just before serving. 

Milk sauce is the same, made with milk instead of 
water. 

In brown sauce, the fat and flour are stirred till 
they brown, then make as above. 

Any number of sauces can be made from these 
three by adding different flavors; chopped pickles and 
a tablespoon vinegar are added to No. 1 when it is to 
be used on fish; or mustard for mustard sauce. 

The addition of eggs raw or cooked makes another 
variety. 

Milk gravies. W * th the help ° f milk We Can make 

a gravy as in "milk sauce," with beef 
or pork fat, seasoning with salt and pepper and per- 
haps some powdered herb. 

Children like all these gravies, if nicely made and 
flavored, to eat on bread as well as on vegetables. 



74 Sauces. 

MEAT SAUCES. 

A few cheap sauces for meats alone deserve special 

mention. 

2 tablespoons green mint or spear mint 

Mint sauce. , j -1 x i i i 

chopped, 1 tablespoon sugar, % cup 
vinegar. Mix and let stand an hour or two. 

Boil 1 pt. fresh or canned tomatoes 

with a little onion, salt, and herb flavor- 
ing until quite thick, then strain and add 1 teaspoon- 
ful of flour cooked in a teaspoonful of butter. 

Any sour fruit, as apples or plums, 

Fruit sauce. , J n j. I -at! 

makes an excellent sauce to eat with 

meat. Apple sauce goes especially well with pork. 
Horseradish Add to drawn butter or any meat 

sauce. gravy i cup grated horseradish. Sim- 

mer a few minutes. 



CAEBOHYDEATE - CONTAINING 
FOODS 

AND THEIR PREPARATION. 



We are now to furnish*for the body the third great 
food principle, the carbohydrates. 'These we mean 
when we speak of the starches and sugars, and with 
unimportant exceptions, they are furnished by the 
vegetable world only. 

As we have seen, that troublesome 
body, cellulose, plays here a large role. 
It is the skeleton, so to speak, of plants, built by them 
out of sugar and starch; the chemist finds no diffi- 
culty in his laboratory in turning it back into dextrin 
and sugar, and our stomachs too can digest a large part 
of the cellulose of very young and tender plants, — 
from 47$ to 62$ it has been found, of young lettuce, 
celery, cabbage and carrots, — but in older plants, the 
cellulose proper becomes all intergrown and encrusted 
with substances of a woody and mineral nature, from 
which even the chemist separates it with the greatest 
difficulty, while our digestive juices are entirely un- 
equal to the task. Therefore it is that the whole art 
of the cook is needed in treating this substance; she 
must soften it, she must break it up, and in many 
cases separate it as completely as possible from the 
sugars, starches and proteids which it hinders us from 
appropriating to our use. 

75 



76 Cellulose. 

In some cases, as in oatmeal and gra- 
ham flour, we leave the cellulose because 
of its mechanical action on the bowels. To be sure, 
this is a wasteful process, for the cellulose carries with 
it when it leaves the body considerable undigested 
food, but better this waste than to give the muscles 
of our intestines so little work to do that they be- 
come unable to digest any but fine, condensed foods. 

As a rule, however, we "must think of cellulose 
not as a food at all, but as a tough, foreign body 
which we must reckon with before we can utilize the 
proteid and starch particles of many important vege- 
table foods. 

Amount of The carbohydrates, especially the 

Carbohydrate, starches, are the cheapest of the food 
constituents and therefore most apt to be in excess, 
especially in the food of the poor. According to 
estimates already given, an adult at average hard work 
gets along nicely with 1-J- lbs. of carbohydrate mate- 
rial (meaning, of course, the dry amount of this one 
principle), though fortunately, as mentioned under 
"Fats," it is found that some of this large amount 
can be exchanged for fat, if the body, for any reason 
can better use the latter. Brainworkers and the 
richer classes the world over take less of carbohy- 
drates, at least in their starch form, and more pro- 
teids and fats. 

Inasmuch as we get these carbohydrates from the 
vegetable kingdom, and because the housewife must 
furnish them combined with other principles as in 
bread and other things made of flour, and in various 
dishes in which vegetables are combined with meat, 



Digestibility of Vegetable Foods. 77 

milk, eggs, etc., we will cease speaking of carbohy- 
drates as such, and will give a few hints as to how to 
prepare vegetable foods so that we can get the most 
out of them, bearing in mind, however, what has been 
said about not following out this principle to the ex- 
tent of weakening the bowels. 
To what extent This leads us, first, to examine the 

digested. general digestibility of the whole class 

of vegetable foods; meaning by this, not the rapid- 
ity nor the ease, but the extent to which the nutritive 
principle is yielded up to us. It has been found that, 
as usually prepared, vegetable foods give up to us 
from \ to -J less of their nutrients than do animal 
foods, and especially is this true of those that are rich 
in proteids. To illustrate: a workman eats as part 
of his dinner a dish of boiled beans, but though he 
rightly considers that he has been eating a nourishing 
dish, he has really absorbed only 60$ of the nitrogen- 
ous substances contained in it, the other 40$ passing 
from him unused because of its intimate connection 
with the cellulose; at least this was the case with 
Prof. Strtimpell who records the result of personal 
experiments on the digestibility of beans cooked whole. 
Now this workman digested of the meat part of his 
dinner 97-£$, and this comparison shows how the 
tougher kinds of cellulose interfere with the absorp- 
tion of the food matters which they enclose. 

The starch part of vegetable food we seem to get 
out much better than the proteid part, even with our 
ordinary methods of cooking; thus out of cooked 
rice we get almost 99$ of the starch, but only 80$ of 
what proteid it contains; flour in the form of noodles 



78 The Shady Side of Vegetable Diet. 

and macaroni yields up 98|$ of its starch and 80$ of 
its albumen, — in the form of bread a little less of each. 
The potato will give us only 75$ of what little pro- 
teid it contains, but as high as 92.5$ of its starch. 
^ . „ . Although the starch-containing foods 

Effect of too & ii- ! i 

much starch are cheap and although they yield up a 
in the diet. good ^ cent of ^ nu t r itive princi- 
ple, they must not be used to excess for the following 
reason. Starch must first be turned into sugar by our 
digestive juices before it can be taken up into the 
blood, and if the stomach is given more at a time 
than it can master, certain fermentations may take 
place, and digestion be influenced. The best author- 
ities say that without doubt the continued and severe 
diarrheas of small children are due to the fermenta- 
tion of starch foods for which their digestive organs 
are not yet ready. 

These fermentations, the irritating action on the 
bowels of too much cellulose, and the loss of a good 
deal of proteid substance connected with it form the 
shady side of a vegetable diet. Even the ox with his 
many stomachs gets out of grass and unchopped hay 
only 60$ of the proteid and 50$ of the fat contained 
in it. 

VEGETABLE PEOTEIDS. 

Even in our part of the world two thirds of the 
proteid food of most people is taken from the vege- 
table kingdom, and in order to choose our food prof- 
itably, we must know where to look for vegetable 
proteids, and how to fit them for eating. Here the 
cereals and the legumes are our friends, the former 
furnishing from 7 to 14$ in their dried state, the lat- 



Grains. 79 

ter giving the astonishing figure of 20 to 24$; or as 
much as meat. 

GRAINS. 

The cereals or grains, though containing much less 
proteid than the legumes, are more valuable to us 
because of their excellent taste, their availability to 
the cook and the readiness with which when ground 
they yield us their nutrients. 

Since the grains are such important foods, a table 
is appended showing the average richness in food 
principles of those in common use among us. We 
find that different analyses of the same grain differ 
greatly from one other, barley for instance, ranging 
from 8 to 18$ in its proteid, and this may account for 
a certain grain being popular in one country and not 
in another. 

In our country we are especially fortunate in the 

cheapness and excellence of at least two of the grains, 

wheat and in- Wheat and Indian Corn. The first 

dian Corn. h as f course much higher food value, 

but the latter is so cheap and can be so easily cooked 

that it is a blessing to the poor. The large per cent 

of both proteids and fat in oats is to be 
Oats 

noted, justifying as it does, the high 

esteem in which they are now held among us. At the 
other extreme is rice, the poorest of the 
grains in both these principles, but its 

almost perfect digestibility renders it very useful. 



80 Analysis of Grains. 

T3 ' (i) p to 

Analysis of -53 | $ t§ 5 £ 

Grains. o &j £3 t3 tf ~ 

% % % fo % 

Fine Wheat Flour 10. 1.0 75.2 13. 0.3 

Rye Flour 11.5 2. 69.5 14. 1.5 

Barley Grits 11. 1.5 71.5 15. 0.5 

Oat Grits 14.5 6.0 6,5. 10. 2.5 

Buckwheat Flour 9.5 2. 72.5 14. 1. 
Corn or Maize 

Flour 10.15 4.80 68.45 14. 2.6 

Rice Grains 8. 1. 76.5 13. 0.5 

SUGARS. 

Most people would class sugar among the luxuries, 
and indeed we are best acquainted with it in those 
combinations with fruit, eggs, butter, and various 
flavoring matters, which, as puddings, pies, cakes, 
custards, etc., make up our dessert list. 

Our first concern, however, is with its 
food value. It gives us the high figure 
of 99$ of the third food principle, — Carbohydrates. 
That is, it must be put in the list with bread and it 
can be used to a certain extent instead of bread and 
other starch foods. Moreover, it is especially fitted 
for a food in cases where nourishment is needed im- 
mediately, as it is digested or absorbed into the sys- 
tem almost as quickly as water and without taxing 
the digestive organs, and perhaps on this account is its 
consumption so great in our country; we live fast, 
and we want our nutriment in a condensed form. 

But on account of its cost and because we are able 






Sugars. 81 

to take only a moderate amount at a time, sugar can- 
not, to any great extent, take the place of the 
starches; we are to value it chiefly for the relish it 

^ , . ^ , gives to other foods. As a flavor, it is 
Its chief value. ° . _. » . 

ot the greatest value, but if we prize 

variety we are certainly accustomed to the taste of 

sugar in too many dishes, as in rice, custards, and 

various egg and bread dishes, which the foreigner 

would sometimes salt instead of sweeten, and eat with 

his meat instead of at the end of the meal. 

We would suggest that when we do use sugar, as in 

a pudding, for instance, that we use less of it than we 

are accustomed to do, for in that case we could eat 

enough of a dish so flavored to make it furnish more 

of the real substance of a meal. 

BEANS, PEAS AND LENTILS. 

Per cent of Pro- Look again at the remarkable per 

teids. j. - , • i • ^ •. . 

cent of proteid given by this class of 
vegetables. Beans and peas, 23$, Lentils, 25$, while 
beef gives on the average only from 17 to 21$. By peo- 
ple who from choice or necessity live principally on 
vegetables, the legumes have always been largely used; 
their consumption is extensive in India, China, and 
in all of Europe. 

To be sure, the quality of the proteid is not the 
same as in meat, — it is less stimulating and palatable, 
and perhaps in other ways inferior, but the proteid 
needs of the body can be answered by it, and that is 
a very important item when the question is one of 
economy. 

. The impression that dried beans and 

peas are "hearty" food, fitted for out- 



82 Peas, Beans and Lentils. 

door workers rather than for less vigorous people or 

those of sedentary habits, seems justified by the fact 

that these vegetables contain an unusually large per 

cent of cellulose of the tougher sort 

CgIIuIosg 

which requires a long continued appli- 
cation of heat to free it from the proteid and starch 
of the vegetable ; indeed, unless it is broken fine or 
ground into flour, cooking, however long continued, 
will be insufficient. We have seen that Prof. Strum- 
pell digested only 40$ of the proteid of beans cooked 
in the ordinary way, but when they were ground to 
flour and baked he digested 91.8$ The fact is, we 

could cook and eat our wheat whole 

Bean Flour. , ., , , 

much more easily than we can our 
beans, and yet bean flour is not in the market, if we 
except the "prepared" sort in small, expensive pack- 
ages. It seems that the best we can do is to cook 
beans well and sieve them; in that way we free them 
from the skins at least. 

The dried and split pea, though as 

valuable as the bean and already freed 
from" the skin, is not as much used among us; it 
should be more employed in soups and as a vegetable. 
Lentils a few years ago were to be found only in 
large cities ; now they are more easily attainable. 
Their food value, as we have seen, is still greater than 
that of beans and peas, but the taste is not as agree- 
able until one becomes accustomed to it. An eco- 
nomist cannot afford to neglect the legume family. 

POTATOES. 

We in our country need not feel as bitter against 



Potatoes. 83 

the potato as do the scientists of Europe, for we are 
not obliged to use it to excess, and considering its cheap- 
ness and availability it is for us a good vegetable and on 
these accounts, though it makes a poor enough show- 
ing as to food value, we must rank it next to the bean 
in importance. It has only 2$ of proteids, no fat and 
only 20. 7$ carbohydrates, and yet since it can be pre- 
pared in so many ways and we never tire of its mild 
flavor, it will doubtless continue to come upon our 
tables more frequently than any other vegetable 
But every day or twice a day, in large amounts, is far 
too often; indeed those who use it to this extent must 
be ignorant of its relatively low food value. The 
quality of the potato is of great importance and none 
but the best should be used. It should be a mealy 
variety and perfectly ripe. 

GARDEN VEGETABLES. 

Green vegetables, excepting the pea and bean, are 
not to be valued chiefly for what we can reckon up 
in them of proteids, fats and carbohydrates, for the 
amount is very small. Except in the height of the 
season they must be looked on as luxuries, but we will 
buy them as often as we can afford them. In quan- 
tities sufficient to flavor soups and stews they can 
always be afforded, and in this way should be freely 
used, carrots, celery, parsnips, and tomatoes, for 
example. 

FEUITS. 

Our markets offer us a great variety of fine fruits, 
and many of them are cheap in their season; apples 
in the fall are within the reach of the very poorest. 



84 Fruits. 

Fresh fruits have a large per cent of water, as 
high as 89$ in the orange, and few fruits have less 
than 80$. Their food value is mainly in the form of 
sugar, apples giving us on an average 7.7$, grapes, 
14.3$; of proteids, the amount does not, with the 
single exception of the strawberry, reach 1$; but 
fruits are very useful to us on account of their flavor, 
due to various aromatic bodies, fruit acids and sugar. 
The apple is especially valuable on account of its 
cheapness and fine keeping qualities, and is used in a 
variety of ways by the cook to give a relish to plain 
materials. Although our largest use of them is in 
sweet dishes, they are perhaps quite as valuable used 
without sugar; they may be fried in slices and eaten 
with fat meat, as bacon or sausage, or they may be 
used to stuff a fowl. 

Fruit is not for all people easy of digestion if eaten 
in considerable quantities, and this is partly on ac- 
count of its relatively large per cent of woody fibre, 
and also, especially when not quite ripe, because of 
the acids and pectose contained in them. Huckle- 
berries have 12$ woody fibre, apples only 2$ including 
the seeds and skin. 

The importance of dried fruits as food is not well 
enough understood. Fruit loses in drying a large 
portion of its water, leaving its nutritive parts in 
more condensed form for our use; dried apples are 
very near to bread in the per cent of nutrients they 
offer, and the dried pear may be called the date of Ger- 
many, so general is its use. With us this fruit is too 
expensive, but in parts of Germany the writer has 
seen dried pears commonly exposed for sale by the 



Cooking of Grains. 85 

barrel like beans; they are eaten in great quantities by 
the common people, who seem to digest them and 
dried apples without any trouble, accustomed as their 
stomachs are to a rye bread and vegetable diet. 
These dried fruits are made into a variety of dishes 
with meats, with potatoes and with beans and also 
with noodles and macaroni. 

COOKING OF GRAIN'S. 

The grains may be cooked whole, coarsely ground, 
as grits, and finely ground, as flour. 
Grains cooked All these grains can be cooked whole 
whole. but it is seldom done, because of the 

length of time required. Only rice and barley are 
generally so cooked. 

In cooking rice, the aim should be to 

Rice. To cook. , , , -. . , . , „ , , , 

have the grains distinct irom each other, 
soft, dry and mealy. 

This is the best way. Add to the rice 

three times its bulk of water, salt well, 

put in a covered dish in a steamer and steam J hour. 

Or, the rice may be soaked over night, and it will then 

steam soft in twenty minutes. 

Put the rice into a large quantity of 
boiling water, add one teaspoon salt to 
each cupful of rice; boil fast, stirring occasionally. 
Drain, dry out a little and keep warm by covering 
with a cloth, as is done with potatoes. Save the 
water poured off for soup. 

Its best use is as a vegetable with 

Rice. To use. ^^ ^^ Qf & ^^ and neutral 

character, it can, like bread, be made into an endless 



86 Cooking of Grits. 

number of dishes to be eaten with meats, or into des- 
sert dishes, with sugar, fruits, etc. For rice omelette 
(see page 60), rice pudding (see pages 107 and 110). 

Grated cheese is a good addition to rice, supplying 
its lack of proteids and fat. 

Pearl barley Soak all night and boil soft in salted 

boiled. water. It may also be steamed. Use 

as a thickening for soups, or like rice, as a vegeta- 
ble, or as a breakfast dish with sugar and milk. 

It is excellent mixed with its bulk of 

With prunes. , , , , n 

stewed prunes; — pour over it melted 
butter, sugar and cinnamon. 

GRAINS, COARSELY GROUND, OR GRITS. 

These are better adapted to simjile cookery than 
are fine flours, since to make them eatable it is only 
necessary to cook them soft in water. The grains 
used in this way among us are cracked wheat, farina or 
wheat grits, oatmeal, hominy and corn meal, aDd they 
are all cooked in nearly the same way. 

MUSHES. 

whea*,oatand Time 2-3 hours. This time maybe 
shortened by soaking the grits some 
hours in water. Oatmeal and corn cannot be over- 
cooked. 

Amount of Water. They all, except corn, absorb 
from three to four times their bulk of water; corn, a 
little over twice. 

Salt. One teaspoonful to one cupful of grits. 

Method of cooking. Steaming is best, as there is 
then no danger of burning or of making the mush 



Mushes. 87 

pasty by stirring. Put the grits and four times their 
bulk of water into a double boiler or into a dish and 
set the dish into a steamer, or use a tin pail with 
tight cover, and set in a kettle of water; — any way to 
keep it at boiling heat without burning. 
uses for cold Porridge. Stir any cold cooked mush 
mushes. smooth with half water and half milk 

to the consistency of porridge. Add a little salt and 
boil up. Sugar and cinnamon or nutmeg may be 
added as flavor. Of course porridges can be also 
made of the uncooked grits, they are simply very thin 
mushes. 

Pancakes. 1 cup of cold oatmeal, hominy or corn 
mush, 2 cups flour, \ pint of milk, -J teaspoon salt, 
and 1 egg f 2 teaspoons baking powder or 1 of soda and 
2 of cream of tartar. Or, sour milk may be used with 1 
teaspoon soda, omitting the cream of tartar. These 
mushes will differ a little in thickness, and therefore 
more or less flour may be needed. Bake on griddle. 

Muffins. The same mixture as above, with the 
addition of a little more flour. Bake in muffin rings. 

To Fry. For this, only corn mush and hominy 
are commonly used. When cooking, add a handful 
of wheat flour to the mush to make it stiffer. Pack 
while warm into a square mould and when cold cut in 
slices and fry slowly to a nice brown on a griddle with 
a little fat. Or, the slices may be dipped into beaten 
egg, then into bread crumbs, and fried in boiling fat. 

CORN" FLOUR. 

There is one fine flour that can be treated in the 
same way as the coarsely ground, — that made from 



88 Corn and Graham Flour. 

Indian corn. Perhaps on account of its larger 
per cent of fat and because little of its albumen is 
in the form of gluten, it does not form into a sticky 
paste as does wheat flour, but can be mixed with water 
only and then boiled or baked into digestible and 
good tasting food, and this is one thing that makes 
corn so valuable a grain to people like the negroes of 
the southern states, whose cooking apparatus is of the 
most primitive sort. Corn meal has one peculiarity, — 
it quickly sours and should be kept no longer than a 
week. The kiln-dried meal, however, keeps indefinite- 
ly, and is now largely used, but is not as sweet as the 
freshly ground. The name " meal " seems to be used 
for both the fine and coarsely ground. 

This, whether made from fine or 

Corn mush. , , . , , ,., 

coarsely ground corn, is cooked like 
grits. See page 86. 

Hoe cake or corn 1 quart Indian meal, 1 teaspoon salt, 
pone. Moisten to a dough with boiling water 

or milk; let it stand a few hours till it shows air 
bubbles on the surface, then make into thick cakes 
and bake in the oven, or cut in slices and fry in pork 
fat on a griddle. Break, not cut, and eat hot. 

GRAHAM FLOUR. 

This preparation of wheat, though finely ground, 
may be treated somewhat like grits, and a bread may 
be made of it with the addition of water only which 
will be light and palatable. The secret of success is 
in having the oven very hot. 

Mix salted graham flour with cold 
n ge ' water to a batter thick enough to drop, 
then put it into iron forms already heated, and bake 
in a very hot oven for about fifteen minutes. 



Fine Wheat Flour. 89 

FINE WHEAT FLOUR. 

Flour may be cooked, of course, in boiling water 
or milk, and in this way is used to thicken gravies or 
soups, and also to make a sort of mush with milk 
and eggs. See " Minute Pudding," page 107. 

The principle of cooking it in this case differs not 
at all from the cooking of a potato; in both cases the 
starch granules soak up the hot water till they burst 
their cellulose walls. But if we were to try to bake 
flour when wet up into a thick paste, we would find it, 
in the first place, difficult to accomplish, the heat being 
very slowly communicated from the surface to the 
interior, and when done, we would have only a tough 
indigestible mass. There is, however, one way of 
preparing such a paste for cooking, which we will con- 
sider before treating the " raising " of flour for bread. 
Flour dough is in this case kneaded hard, rolled thin 
and then dried. So treated we know it in the form of 

MACARONI AND NOODLES. 

Macaroni. a trade article extensively used 

abroad where the best kinds cost only ten to twelve 
cents a pound, and the broken or imperfect sticks 
not more than seven. It is a valuable article of food, 
but its use will not become extensive among us while 
it is so dear. 

Like the fine flour of which it is principally com- 
posed it is deficient in fat, and must be eaten with 
the addition of butter, cheese or milk. 

How cooked. Put into plenty of salted boiling 
water, and boil twenty or thirty minutes, till it is 
perfectly tender (if old it takes longer to cook). 



90 Macaroni and Noodles. 

Drain carefully, pouring it into a cullender or lifting 
out with a skimmer. 

1st. (Best.) Put it in the dish in 
layers with grated cheese and butter. 
2d. Serve with milk and butter sauce. 
3d. Add two beaten eggs to the milk and butter 
sauce. 

Like bread and rice, macaroni when 

Other Uses. . , . , . , , , 

cooked is made into a great number of 
dishes ; it is added to soups, it is mixed with meat m 
ragouts, and it is cooked with certain vegetables, as 
tomatoes. 

Arrange the macaroni in a pudding 

With Tomatoes. ,. , . ° . x1 , , , ° 

dish m layers with grated cheese and 
stewed tomatoes. Brown in the oven. 

This is also a trade article, but that 
of home manufacture is much better. 
It may be called one of the German national dishes, 
so extensive is its use among that people, with whom 
it often constitutes the main dish of a meal without 
meat. 

Ingredients. 3 eggs, 3 tablespoons milk or water, 
1 teaspoon salt, and flour. 

To make. Make a hole in the middle of the flour, 
put in the other ingredients and work to a stiff 
dough, then cut in 4 strips, knead each till fine grained, 
roll out as thin as possible and lay the sheet out to 
dry. When all are rolled begin with the first, cut it 
into 4 equal pieces, lay the pieces together and shave 
off very fine as you would cabbage, pick the shavings 
apart with floured hands and let them dry a little. 

To use. Boil them a few at a time in salted water 



Bread Making. 91 

taking them out with a skimmer and keeping them 
warm. Strew over them bread crumbs fried in but- 
ter or use like macaroni. (See page 90.) 

These noodles will keep indefinitely when dried 
hard, therefore when eggs are cheap they may be 
made and laid up for the winter. The water in which 
they are boiled is the basis of Noodle Soup; it needs 
only the addition of a little butter, a tablespoonf ul of 
chopped parsley and a few of the cooked noodles. 

Experimenters have proved that flour in the form 
of noodles and macaroni is more perfectly digested 
than even in bread. 

BREAD MAKING. 
^volvS ^ S ° far WG haVe USed in tlie COokil lg 

of flour no other principle than the 
simple application of water and heat. We must now 
consider how fine flour is to be made into what is 
known as bread. As before said, the particles easily 
pack together when wet into a pasty dough which, if 
so baked, would defy mastication and digestion. We 
must contrive in some way to separate these flour 
particles by forcing between them air or some other 
gas, so as to present as large a surface as possible to 
the action of the digestive juices and this maybe done 
1st, By surrounding these particles by fat, as in mak- 
ing pie-crust; 2d, By the air contained in beaten 
egg; 3d, By forcing carbonic acid gas through the 
mass by the action of ( a ) yeast, or ( b ) of bi-carbo- 
nate of soda acting on some acid. 

FLOUR RAISED WITH FAT. 

Pie-crust. The familiar example of this method 

is pie-crust, where a paste of water and flour is re- 



92 Piecrust and Egg- Raised Breads. 

peatedly rolled and spread with some fat, as lard, until 
the paste is in paper-thick layers with the fat between. 
When baked, the air expands and separates the flour 
particles, a true lightness being the result. 

So much fat must be employed to produce this re- 
sult, however, that the use of this method will of course 
be limited to the construction of dessert dishes, of 
which not much is eaten at once. 

A flour rich in starch is better for this purpose 
than a gluten flour. 

FLOUR RAISED WITH EGG. 

The next most simple method of cooking fine flour, 
is to introduce between its particles the air adherent 
to beaten egg, and by the immediate application of 
heat to expand the air and stiffen the mass thus ae- 
rated. By this method none of the food principle 
is wasted as when yeast is used, nor is a chemical salt 
left in the dough as in the action of soda, but the 
method is expensive and is limited in its use to what 
may be called fancy breads and cakes. 

We have selected the following mixture as the 
foundation for egg breads; of course others are pos- 
sible: 

Foundation of 1 quart milk, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoon but- 
egg breads. ter and 1 teaspoon salt. 

This mixture is then thickened with any kind of 
flour, or with part flour and part bread, boiled rice, 
boiled hominy or corn mush. 

To mix. First beat the eggs very light, whites and 
yolks separately, then the yolks smoothly with the 
flour and milk, stir the whites in at last very lightly 



Yeast Breads. 93 

and bake immediately. The eggs must be beaten 
very light, and the batter just of good pouring con- 
sistency, thinner than if no eggs were used, 
wheat, Graham Add to above foundation mixture a 

or Corn Pan- 

cakes. scan t pmt of either of these flours, 

cooked Rice, Add to tne foundation mixture one 

Hominy or cup of flour and twocupsof boiled rice, 
Pancakts. Sh homin y or corn mush (or the propor- 
tions may be reversed ). Bake in small, 
rather thick cakes. If they stick to the griddle add 
a little more flour. 
n -., . Add to the foundation mixture 1 cup 

Bread Pancakes. n 1 

Hour and 2 cups bread crumbs that 
have been soaked soft in milk or water and mashed 
smooth. The batter should be rather thick. Bake 
in small cakes adding more flour if they stick. 
Muffins and Muffins and waffles of all sorts are 

waffles. ma( j e like pancakes, but a little stiffer 

with flour. 

otheregsdougha. 0the 5 e 88;™«*- doughs, mixed in 
somewhat different proportions and 
differently cooked, as fritters, sponge cakes and bat- 
ter puddings, will be found in another section. 

FLOUR RAISED WITH CARBONIC ACID GAS. 

This is brought about by ( a ) the growth of the 
yeast plant or by the action ( I ) of bicarbonate of soda 
on some acid. Both of these methods have their ad- 
vantages. 

Yeagt The action of the yeast plant when 

brought into contact with flour and 

water is to develop carbon dioxide gas and alcohol. 

This it does at the expense of the little sugar already 



94 White Bread. 

in the flour, but still more at the expense of that 
which it manufactures out of the starch, or as some 
say, out of the gluten. The chemist ascertains this 
loss of nutritive matter to be as high as 1$, and Lie- 
big, who was strongly opposed to this method of 
bread raising, estimated that 40,000 people might be 
fed on the flour that was wasted in this way in Ger- 
many alone. But notwithstanding this waste, the 
method, on account of its convenience and the good 
taste it gives to bread, still holds its ground. 

The time cannot be far distant when the baker will 
furnish us better and cheaper bread than we can 
make in our own kitchens. This has long been the 
case on the continent of Europe, but for some reason 
we have not yet reached that point in civilization 
and the housekeeper must still learn this art and 
practice it, for good bread is a necessity. 

The best flour is, even for the poor, 
' the cheapest, as it makes more and bet- 
ter bread to the pound. There should always be two 
kinds kept on hand; the yellowish, high-priced gluten 
flour for bread making, and the whiter, cheaper sort 
for pastry, cake and thickenings. 

No recipe for making yeast will be given, as the com- 
pressed yeast is so much better than the house -wife 
can make, and is now obtainable even in small towns. 
Proportions. 1 quart warm water, 

To make bread. _ . .,, . x „ n ^ . , , 

2f qts. (about) of flour, 1 tablespoon 

salt, 1 tablespoon or one cake of compressed yeast, or 

i cup liquid yeast. The proportions of flour and 

water differ according to the quality of the flour, the 

gluten flours taking up much more water than the 

starch flours. 



White Bread. 95 

Put the flour and salt into jour bread pan and 
make a hole in the middle, then pour in gradually the 
water in which the yeast has been dissolved, mixing 
as you pour with your hand or with a spoon. As 
soon as the mass will hold together, take it out on a 
moulding board and with floured hands work it grad- 
ually into a tender dough, using as little flour as possi- 
ble, for the dough must remain as soft as can be 
handled. This first moulding should take from 15 
to 20 minutes. Then let the bread rise in a warm 
place ; the yeast plant can live in a temperature 
ranging from 30° to 170° F. but thrives best at about 
72°. Cover with a cloth and in winter keep by a warm 
stove. If made with compressed yeast, the dough will 
rise the first time in an hour. Take it at its first 
lightness, before it begins to sink back (it should be 
like a honeycomb all through, and double or treble 
its original bulk), put it on your moulding board, or 
^ of it at a time, and mould it well until it is fine 
and tender again. Add no flour this time but keep 
the hands moist with warm water or milk or with 
lard. Divide into loaves — small ones — which should 
only half fill the greased tins, and set again to rise, 
keeping it at the same temperature and letting it get 
very light again. Flour that is rich in gluten requires 
longer to rise than that containing more starch. 

It is difficult to give directions about 
the heat of the oven. One housekeeper 
says " hot enough so that you can hold your hand in 
till you count twelve," another, " until you can count 
thirty," and the puzzled novice can only inquire 
" how fast do you count?" The oven must be hot 



96 White Bread. 

enough to brown the bread lightly in ten minutes, 

and to bake a small loaf in from twenty minutes to 

half an hour. 

If more convenient, a bread sponge 

Additional facts. , -, , « , 'iiii ' > 

may be made at nrst with the water, 
yeast, and part of the flour, and when light, the rest 
of the flour added. It hastens the process a little. 
How many times Do not let the bread rise more than 

shall bread rise? t w ice; it loses each time some of its 
nutritive qualities. Bread raised once is coarse of 
grain but sweet to the taste. 
To keep bread Mould it harder than you do bread 

lon s- that is to be eaten soon. 

Dough that has Set the bread pan immediately into 

become chilled. a larger one filled with warm water and 
as the water cools replace with warm until the dough 
begins to rise again. 
Dough raised du- This method is often convenient, and 

ring the night, does very well if slower yeast is used, 
but bread is better to be raised quickly with com- 
pressed yeast. If the latter is used a forenoon is suf- 
ficient for the process of making and baking. 
To delay the ^ or conven ience, as to make warm 

baking of bread biscuits for supper, rising dough may 

dough. be kept at a stan( i s till for hours with- 

out injury at a temperature of about 50°, as in a cel- 
lar, and an hour before baking brought into a warm 
room to finish the rising process. 

BREADS FROM OTHER FLOURS. 

„ . . , Graham bread is made like white 

Graham bread. 

bread using two parts graham to one 
of white flour, or any other proportion liked, but it 



Brown Breads. 97 

should be mixed very soft. A little sugar and fat 
should be added, 1 tablespoon lard or beef fat and 2 
tablespoons sugar or molasses. Bake slower and long- 
er than white bread. 

The usual and most convenient way of making 
graham bread is to mix the flour and other ingredi- 
ents with some of the white sponge on baking day. 

Rye bread is made exactly as is bread 

from wheat flour, but in this country 
4 parts rye, 1 part corn meal, and a handful of wheat 
flour are generally used. It must bake much longer 
— two to three hours in a slow oven. It is still better 
steamed the first two hours and baked the third. 

Corn bread is made of 3 parts corn 

meal to 1 of wheat flour, same quantity 
of yeast and salt as for white bread, and an addition 
of 2 tablespoons lard or beef fat and two tablespoons 
sugar. It is only to be stirred, not moulded, and need 
rise but once. 

BISCUITS, BUNS, ETC. 

Breakfast roils or These are "little breads" of either 
white or graham flour. Make part of 
the dough out into little balls which will rise more 
quickly and bake in a shorter time, a little butter 
or lard, one tablespoon to a quart of dough being 
generally moulded with it. 

When called " Breakfast Rolls" the dough is made 
out into flat round cakes, the top buttered and folded 
over not quite in the middle. 

Milk rolls are made from bread dough 
mixed with milk instead of water; they 
are very tender and delicate. 
9 



98 Biscuit, Buns, Etc. 

wheat gems or ne modification in the baking of 
drop biscuits, dough is worthy of mention. Use about 
a cup more milk in mixing the receipt for bread 
given above, so that the dough will just drop from a 
spoon and then bake in forms in the oven, or on a slow 

griddle. 

These are made from bread dough 
mixed with milk and with the addition 
of 4 eggs and 1 cup of butter to a quart of milk. 
Form, long and high. 

other uses for There are many uses for the above 
rusk dough, dough. When made out into biscuit 
shape it may be steamed and eaten as a simple pud- 
ding with fruit, or, made into tiny balls and cooked, 
when light, in a meat stew, the dish being then 
called a pot-pie. 

These are like Rusks (above) plus 2 

Buns, plain. „ -, ,.,,, . . 

cups oi sugar and a little spice, say, i 
teaspoon nutmeg. Eoll the dough out -J- inch thick, 
and cut with a biscuit cutter. Let it rise till very 
light, which will take some time on account of the 
sugar. 

To plain buns add 1 cup India cur- 
rants, washed, dried and floured, or 
raisins cut in bits. 

From the recipe for Buns, as above, 

Raised Cake. 

a plain and good cake may be made by 
using 1 pint instead of 1 quart of milk to the given 
quantity of eggs, butter and sugar, and adding a lit- 
tle more fruit. Bake in a ribbed pudding dish 
which has been thickly buttered, and in the butter, 
blanched almonds arranged in rows. 



Yeast Pancakes. 99 

Bun dough may also be fried in fat, 

Doughnuts. , , 

as doughnuts. 
For a fine brown To give a fine crust to biscuit or 
crust. buns: Brush over before baking, with a 

feather dipped in one of these mixtures: one teaspoon 
of molasses and milk, two teaspoons of sugar and 
milk, or three teaspoons sugar and the white of an 

egg- 
To show the true relation of the above doughs to 
each other, the quantity has been kept the same as 
for bread dough, but one-half the given quantity 
of cake, buns or biscuit would be enough for a large 
family. 

Any of the above doughs can be 

To steam bread. -,-,, , . , -Tei-i- 

cooked by steaming instead of baking, 
when more convenient. They will of course lack the 
brown crust, but may afterward be dried or browned 
in the oven. A somewhat longer time is required 
for steaming than for baking. 

YEAST BREADS — THIN. 

Raised Pancakes. The materials for these are, 1 qt. milk, 

Wheat Graham 

and Corn. or milk and water, a little more than a 

qt. of flour, 1 tablespoon compressed 
yeast or f cup liquid yeast, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 table- 
spoon butter; the flour may be wheat flour, wheat 
and graham mixed, or wheat and corn mixed, or 
part bread crumbs may be mixed with the flour. 
Make and raise like bread sponge. It is better they 
should be too thick than too thin, as milk may be 
added to thin them after they are light, but raw flour 
added at that time spoils them. 



100 Soda Raised Breads. 

Pancakes with Add to the above batter just before 

egg*- baking, 1, 2 or 3 eggs, yolks and whites 

Muffins and beaten separately. Use in this case some- 

Waffles. w j iat l egs fl our> 

These can be made of either of the above pancake 
batters, with 1 cup to 1 pt. more flour. 

BUCKWHEAT FLOUR. 

Buckwheat flour makes bread that is relished by 
those accustomed to its somewhat peculiar taste, but 
in this country it is used only in pancakes. 
Buckwheat Pan- 1 qt. buckwheat flour, 1 teaspoon 
cakes. sa it, 1 cup or less of corn meal scalded 
in a little water, 2 teaspoons molasses ( to make them 
brown — a little buttermilk answers the same pur- 
pose), 1 tablespoon compressed yeast, 1 qt. warm 
water, or enough to make a thin batter. Let rise 
over night. 

FLOUR RAISED WITH SODA. 

Soda. On the interaction of bicarbonate of 

soda and different acids, by which carbonic acid gas 
is liberated is based a common method of raising 
doughs. It wastes none of the flour, as does yeast, 
but it has its own disadvantages. The product of 
these chemicals acting on each other is a salt which 
is left in the bread; hydrochloric acid acted on by 
soda gives common salt, to which there could be no 
objection, but this method is not easily used in the 
household, and the salts left by other acids, as the lac- 
tic acid of milk when acted on by bicarbonate of soda, 
we get enough of in other dishes. Whether reliable 
experiments have been made as to the comparative 



Soda Raised Breads. 101 

digestibility of breads raised with soda and those 
raised with yeast the writer does not know, but there 
is a wide-spread impression that the former should 
be eaten only occasionally, and it is certain that we 
tire of them sooner than of yeast breads. Besides, 
which is of importance to one who must economize in 
milk, eggs, &c, better materials must be used with 
soda than with yeast to produce an equally rich tasting 
bread or cake. 

METHODS. 

We have three methods of using bicarbonate of 
soda to raise flour; by its action on 

1. The acid contained in sour milk, from 1 to 2 
teaspoons of soda being used to a quart of milk. 

2. On cream of tartar, the proportions being 1 tea- 
spoon soda to 2 of cream of tartar to a quart of flour. 

3. On tartaric or other acids already mixed with it 
in a baking powder and to be used according to di- 
rections on the package, or, one may say in general, 
that three teaspoons of the powder go to every quart 
of flour. 

The secret of success in making soda 

Secret of Success. n , -, . . . , + N , , 

raised breads consists in ( 1 ) the per- 
fect mixing of the soda and cream of tartar or the 
baking powder, with the flour, cooks who are par- 
ticular sieving these ingredients five times. In this 
connection we cannot urge too strongly that each 
housewife should make and keep on hand this pre- 
pared flour; in a leisure time she can measure, sieve 
and mix it, and she has then in making biscuit or cake, 
only to chop in the butter, add the milk and eggs 
and it is done. 



102 Soda Biscuits. 

2. In light mixing of the shortening with the flour; 
this is best accomplished with a chopping knife. 

3. In a rapid completion of the work after the two 
raising agencies have become wet and begun to work, 
and no delay in baking when all is ready. 

Ingredients. 1 qt. of flour, 1 tea- 
spoon salt, 1 tablespoon butter, or but- 



ter and lard, or butter and suet, 1 scant pint 
milk or water with 1 teaspoon soda and two of cream 
of tartar, or three teaspoons of baking powder; or, 1 
scant pint sour milk with 1 teaspoon soda and 1 tea- 
spoon cream of tartar; if the milk be very sour omit 
the cream of tartar. 

To make. In a chopping bowl stir all well together 
except the shortening and milk, then chop in the 
shortening which should be cold and hard, till all is 
fine and well mixed. Now add the milk a little at a 
time, still mixing with the chopping knife. Take 
out on the moulding board and roll out with as little 
mixing as possible. 

This dough is often made richer, even 1 cup of 
butter to 1 qt. of flour being used, but so much as 
this can only be considered extravagant and un- 
healthful. 

To use this dough. Roll 1 in. thick, 
cut with biscuit cutter and bake. To 
be eaten warm with butter. 

As Graham Bis- "Use three parts graham flour to one 
cuits. of wheat and treat in same manner. 

Roll i in. thick, fit into jelly cake 

As Short Cake. ,. , , . TTri , , -. 

tins and bake. When nicely browned, 
split and butter and pile up like toast. 
For fruit short cake (see pages 108 and 109.) 



Soda Raised Pancakes. 103 

SODA BREAD OF CORN MEAL. 

Corn Bread, or 1 cup sweet milk, 1 cup sour or but- 
johnnycake. termilk, or both of sour milk, 1 tea- 
1. Plain. spoon salt, 1 teaspoon soda, 1 table- 

spoon butter or suet or lard, 3 cups Indian meal, and 

1 of wheat flour, or all of Indian meal. Pour into a 
tin and bake 40 minutes. 

2 Ri h r ^e same w ^ n an e SS an( ^ i CU P sugar 

added. 
No. 1, with the addition of 3 eggs, \ 
cup sugar and \ cup butter, 1 cup meal being omitted. 

SODA RAISED BREAD— THIN. 

Pancakes tvithout Eggs. 
i. Of wheat Ingredients. 1 qt. flour, 1 teaspoon 

salt, and 1 scant qt. sour milk, with 2 
level teaspoons soda and the same of cream of tartar 
unless the milk is very sour, when omit the cream of 
tartar. Sweet milk can also be used with 1 teaspoon 
soda and 2 of cream of tartar, or 3 of baking powder. 

To make. Mix the salt and cream of tartar if used, 
with the flour. Make a hole in the middle and pour 
in the milk gradually, stirring with a spoon till smooth. 
Then beat hard for 5 minutes, or till it is bubbly. Add 
the soda dissolved in a teaspoon of hot water, and bake 
immediately on a very hot griddle. 

Unless well beaten before the soda is added, these 
pancakes without eggs are not a success. 

If made with sour milk they will be still better, if 
when mixed ( without the soda, of course ) the batter 
is left to stand twelve or even twenty-four hours. 



104 Soda Raised Pancakes, 

Just before using add the soda dissolved in a little 
hot water. 

2. Of Graham Are made in the same way, 1 part 

Flour. being of white flour and 3 parts graham. 

3. of Corn As above, with corn meal instead of 

Meal. graham. 

Pancakes with Eggs. 
Ingredients. To any of the 3 preceding recipes add 
2 or 3 eggs, beating yolks and whites separately. 

Muffins and Waffles. 
Muffins and waffles of all kinds are the same as pan- 
cakes, made a little thicker and with the addition of 
1 tablespoon of butter. 

Fritters. 
For fritters, which should be next in order (see page 
113). 



USES FOE BKEAD. 



These are so numerous that the housekeeper need 
never fear the accumulation of stale bread, if she will 
only take care of it in time. Every day the bits left 
from meals and the dry ends of the loaf 
must be dried hard in the oven and then 
put away in paper bags. If time allows, pare oif the 
crusts, cut into cubes and dry separately to add to 
soups. 

This dried bread will keep for weeks or months — 
it must simply be kept clean and dry. In any recipe 
where bread-crumbs are called for, as bread pudding 
or bread omelet, use this dried bread, laying it first 
in cold water till it is soft, then pressing it dry in a 
towel and crumbling it lightly with the hand. 

Here are a few of the ways in which bread can be 
used. 

USES FOR BREAD IN SLICES. 

Toast. In dry toast, milk toast, and water 

toast, to be eaten as such and as a foundation for 
many other dishes. 

Fried toast — bread slices soaked in egg and milk, 
or water, and fried on a griddle with a little fat. (See 
page 60). Cold milk or water toast may be so used. 
Fritters. For Bread Fritters (see page 114). 

105 



106 Uses for Bread. 

Puddings. For bread and butter pudding (see page 

in). 

Stale bread may be cut in slices and 

Steamed Bread. , , , , -, -, 

steamed so as to taste sweet and good. 
Set the slices up on end in the steamer and steam 5 
or 10 minutes, then dry a little in an oven. 

Bread Biscuits of all sorts, even when sev- 

Rebaked. era i d avs \&^ mav b e ma de nearly as 

good as when fresh, by wetting the tops and setting 

in a hot oven for about five minutes. A convenient 

way of having warm biscuits for breakfast. 

USES FOR CRUMBS OR DRIED BREAD. 

Soaked and crumbled as described on page 105 and 
use in bread dough instead of half the flour. 

In bread omelettes (see page 60). 

In meat balls for soups and stews (see page 127). 

In bread dressing. Pour enough hot water on dry 
bread to soften it and chop it not too fine ; season 
with chopped onion, herbs and suet or tried out fat. 
The addition of an egg is an improvement. Bake 
covered, about an hour, then uncover and brown. 
This mixture may also be used for stuffing a fowl, leg 
of mutton, &c. ; or it may be fried in spoonfuls on a 
griddle and eaten with a sweet sauce as the simplest 
form of pancakes. 

In bread pancakes (see page 93). 

In bread puddings (see pages 109, 110 and 111). 

For breading chops, croquettes, &c, that are to be 
fried in boiling fat. 



SIMPLE SWEET DISHES. 



This department does not pretend to be complete, 
it simply aims to classify as many of the cheaper kinds 
as the ordinary family needs. These will generally be 
used as desserts but there is no reason why the main 
dish of the meal should not have some sugar in it. I 
remember that in a simple pension in Thuringia, Ger- 
many, I once ate of a dinner consisting of a soup, a 
salad and one other dish, which we would call a bread 
pudding. I was helped bountifully to this main dish 
of the meal, I ate and was satisfied, for the materials 
were good and it was well made and delicately baked. 
The recroe will be found on page 110. 

MILK PUDDINGS. 

Indian pudding. i qt. f milk, •£■ cup corn meal, 1 tea- 
spoon salt, -| cup chopped suet, 1 tablespoon ginger, 
\ cup molasses. Bake covered for 3 hours in very 
slow oven and serve with sweet sauce. 
Swelled rice 1 qk skim milk or 1 pt. full milk and 

pudding. i pt. water, -J cup rice, 2 tablespoons 

sugar, | teaspoon salt. Bake slowly 2 hours covered, 
then uncover and brown. It will be a creamy mass 
and delicious in taste. Serve without sauce. Raisins 
may be added. 
Minute pudding Ingredients. 1 qt. milk - skim milk 

of wheat or with 1 teaspoon butter will do — 2 eggs, 

graham flour. | pt flour? ± teaspoon Salt. To pre- 
107 



108 Fruit Puddings. 

vent burning make in double boiler or pail set in 
a kettle of boiling water. Mix the flour and egg 
smooth with part of the milk, heat the remainder to 
boiling and stir in the egg and flour. Stir till it 
thickens, then let it swell and cook slowly for 15 min- 
utes. Serve with fruit, or with sugar and milk. 

Ingredients. 1 pt. water, 1 pt. milk, 

Farina pudding-. , . . 

.1 teaspoon salt, -J pt. farina, 2 eggs. 
Make as above. 

This is excellent cut in slices when cold and fried 
brown on a griddle. It may also be made without 



Ingredients. 1 pt. fresh buttermilk, 

Buttermilk £ l 

pudding-. * tablespoons cream or butter, 1 tea- 

spoon salt, a pinch of soda, and flour for 
stiff batter. Steam 2 hours, or till it bursts open, 
or bake in little cups or patties. May be eaten with 
any fruit sauce or with milk and sugar. 

FRUIT PUDDINGS WITH SODA BISCUIT DOUGH. 

For this dough, see page 102. 
When baked as short cake, split the 

Shortcakes. _ x 

cakes and spread between each pair 

strawberries mashed and sweetened. 

other fruit short- I n the same way make shortcake of 

cakes. berries of any sort, stewed apples, stewed 

pieplant, lemon or orange tart filling, in short, any 

filling for a pie, that is ready to eat without further 

cooking. These should be eaten warm but not hot, 

and are as good next day, if put in the oven long 

enough to become again warm and crisp. 

Roi Pol ud These favorite dishes are but modifi- 

ding and apple cations of the fruit shortcake. In the 

dumpling. firgt the dough i s ma( i e j us t stiff enough 



Fruit Puddings. 109 

to roll out, covered with apples or berries or other 
fruit, then rolled up and put to bake in a pan contain- 
ing a little water. 

For apple dumplings, the crust is cut in squares, 
sliced apples placed in the middle, then the corners 
gathered up and pinched together. Bake like Eoly 
Poly pudding, or steam. 

If you wish to cook your fruit at the 
same time with the crust, fill a deep 
pie plate with fruit, as apples, and cover with the 
rolled out shortcake. Bake brown, and when done 
lift the crust, sweeten the fruit, replace the crust, and 
the "pie" is ready to serve. 

Kaised biscuit or bun dough (see page 98), can be 
used in the same way, or still better, yeast pancake mix- 
ture (see page 99), in layers with any sort of fruit. 

If you will call these fruit shortcakes "pies," and 
be content therewith, you will save much labor, much 
expensive material, and set before your family a more 
healthful dish. No farther recipes for pies will be 
given; a few that are generally classed as such, com- 
ing more naturally under the head of puddings. 

FRUIT PUDDINGS WITH BREAD. 

l. Brown Betty. Ingredients. 1 pt. bread crumbs, or 
dry bread moistened, 1 qt. chopped sour apples, \ pt. 
sugar, 2 teaspoons cinnamon, 4 tablespoons butter or 
suet. 

Arrange bread and apples in layers in a pudding 
dish, beginning and ending with the bread crumbs, 
seasoning each layer with the sugar and spice and 
spreading the butter over the top. Cover it till the 
apples are soft, then uncover to brown. 



110 Custard Puddings. 

The same, made with raspberries or 

2. Berry Betty. . ' . . r 

blackberries. If not juicy enough, a 
little water must be added. A pudding may be made 
in the same way with cherries or any other well fla- 
vored fruit. 

CUSTARD PUDDINGS. 

1. Plain. Ingredients. 1 qt. milk, 4 eggs, beaten 
yolks and whites separately, 4 tablespoons sugar, a 
grating of nutmeg and a pinch of salt. Bake in a 
buttered pudding dish till solid, and take from the 
oven before it curdles. 

2. Rice and cus- To above ingredients add -J cup of 

tard. r i ce cooked soft in part of the milk, or in 
water. Bake \ to f of an hour, till nicely browned. 
This is the foundation for the many varieties of rice 
puddings. Kaisins may be added. 

Tapioca and Sago puddings are made 

in the same way, except that they must 

4. sago. k e goa k e( j f or 2 hours in part of the 

milk or in water. 

Indian and cus- To the ingredients for plain custard 
tard pudding, pudding add 1 pt. of corn meal and an 
extra cup of milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon gin- 
ger, \ cup sugar and ■£■ cup chopped beef suet or 2 
tablespoonf uls tried out fat. Scald the meal first in 
the milk and bake the pudding, covered, two hours 
in slow oven. 

BREAD AND CUSTARD PUDDINGS. 

l. Bread pudding 1 qt. boiling milk poured on as much 
or "Semmei bread — as will absorb it, about 1 pt. if 

Geraiisch." , , , , -u_ i 

hard' — 4 eggs, \ teaspoon salt, \ cup 
sugar. 



Bread and Custard Puddings, 111 

The milk and bread are allowed to get cold and the 
other ingredients well beaten with it, the eggs being 
beaten separately, and the whites added last. Bake 
one hour in a buttered dish. Eat without a sauce. 

Of course a bread pudding can be made with fewer 
eggs, but then it will hardly do for the main dish of 
a meal. 

2. Bread pudding Dried bread soaked soft in cold water 
( simple), and pressed dry in a cloth, milk to make 
it into a soft mush. Add 1 beaten egg to a pint of 
the mixture. Bake from half an hour to an hour 
and eat with sweet sauce. 

With raisins. Raisins or currants or fresh fruit, as 

cherries, may be added. 
With dried After putting in $ the pudding mix- 

appies. ture, put a thick layer of stewed dried 

apples mashed and sweetened, and flavored with 
orange peel or cinnamon. 
Bread and butter A convenient variation on the ordi- 

pudding. narv bread pudding. 
Plain - Spread thin slices of bread with but- 

ter, and pour over them a simple custard, viz. : 4 eggs 
to 1 qt. of milk, 4 tablespoons sugar, a pinch of salt. 
Keep pressed down till the custard is absorbed; Bake 
slowly till firm and brown. Eat with or without 
sauce. 
m , The bread slices may be spread with 

With fruit. T ,. . .% r _ . , m 

India currants, or with any kind of 

fresh or dried cooked fruit, not too juicy. 

individual bread Cut small round loaves of bread into 

puddings. quarters, or use biscuits. Soak in a 

mixture of 4 eggs, whites and yolks, beaten separate- 



112 Suet Puddings. 

ly, and added to 1 pt. of milk with a little sugar 
and nutmeg. When they have absorbed all they 
will without breaking, drain and bake in slow oven 
to a nice brown, spreading a little butter over once 
or twice at the last. This dish can be made very 
pretty by putting currants in the holes around the 
top and sticking in pieces of blanched almonds. 

SUET PUDDINGS. 

Ingredients. \ pt. beef suet, chopped fine, \ pt. 
molasses, \ pt. milk, -J pt. raisins or currants, or both. 
(A part of the fruit may be figs and prunes cut in 
bits.) 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon soda mixed with 
the molasses, 1 pt. bread crumbs (dry), 1 pt. graham 
flour and 2 eggs. Steam 3 hours or bake 2. 
Eat with a lemon sauce. 

Use the above recipe, omitting the 
eggs and using instead of graham flour 
and bread crumbs If pt. white flour. 
To reheat pud- All the preceding puddings are good 
dings. reheated. Cut in slices, and warm in 

the oven, or fry in a little butter in a pan. Sift sugar 
over and eat with sauce. 

PUDDING SAUCE. 

1 pt. water made into a smooth starch with a heap- 
ing tablespoon flour. Cook 10 minutes, strain if nec- 
essary, sweeten to taste and pour it on 1 tablespoon 
butter and juice of a lemon or other flavoring. If 
lemon is not used add 1 tablespoon vinegar. 

This can be made richer by using more butter and 
sugar; stir them to a cream with the flavoring, then 
add the starch. 



Fritters. 113 

FRITTERS. 

These are various doughs and batters fried in boil- 
ing fat, and eaten warm with sugar or a sweet sauce. 
The hot fat gives a puffy lightness and a delicious 
crisp crust. 

Lard is most generally used, but cooking oil (see 
page 41) is better, and even beef fat prepared as (see 
same page) is good. The fat must be smoking hot to 
prevent its soaking into the dough. For the same 
reason batters so cooked must contain more egg than 
if they were to be baked. 

Forms. The fritter ma y be rolle( l out and cut 

in shapes, or dropped in spoonfuls or 
run through a funnel, being, of course, mixed of dif- 
ferent consistency for each method. When nicely 
browned, take out with a wire spoon and lay on brown 
paper, which will absorb the fat, then sprinkle with 
sugar and send to table. 

Soda raised Ingredients. 1 pt. flour (| may be 

fritters. graham), -J teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon oil, 

butter, or lard, 1 egg and J pt. sour milk with i tea- 
spoon soda, or same of sweet milk with -J teaspoon soda 
and 1 teaspoon cream of tartar. Beat the egg, white 
and yolk separately, adding the white last of all. 

Drop from a spoon into boiling lard; or, omit nearly 
half the flour and pour through a funnel. 

This batter may be also raised with yeast. 
Egg raised These are more crisp and delicate, 

fritters. if i^d very light, soda or cream of 

tartar or baking powder may be added to these also. 
These batters are thinner than the preceding; they 
must be well beaten if no soda is used. 
10 



114 Fritters. 

1. Ingredients. 1 scant pt. of flour, 2 eggs, 1 tea- 
spoon salt, -J- pt. milk, 1 teaspoon oil or butter. 

Beat the yolks well, then again well with the flour 
and milk, add the stiffly beaten whites last. Fry in 
spoonfuls. 

2. Ingredients. 1 heaping pt. flour, 4 eggs, 1 table- 
spoon oil or butter, 1 teaspoon salt, about a pint 
of water, or enough to make the batter a little thicker 
than for pancakes. Proceed as before. 

1 tablespoon of lemon juice may be 
added to any of the above recipes, or a 
little nutmeg or cinnamon if liked. 

Take sour apples, peel, cut out the 

Trait fritters. ,, n ,. -, • -,- -. 

core neatly and slice round m slices i 
in. thick. Soak these a few hours in sweetened wine, 
lemon juice or other flavoring. Dip in either of the 
above batters and fry. (They are also very good with- 
out being soaked in the flavoring.) 

Peaches, pine apples and bananas may be used in 
the same way. 

Trim the crust from sliced bread, cut 

Bread fritters. . . , , , ., , , , 

m nice shapes and soak soit, but not 
till they break, in a cup of milk to which has been 
added 1 beaten egg and some flavoring, as cinnamon, 
lemon, etc. Dip in fritter batter and fry. 



COOKING OF VEGETABLES. 



The Legumes. As we have seen, the food value of 

the dried bean, pea and lentil, is great, 
but as usually cooked a large per cent, of it is lost 
to us. 

In the process of cooking, the cellulose part must 
be broken up, softened, and as much as possible 
entirely removed. These vegetables, if they cannot 
be obtained ground, must be soaked in cold water 
some time before cooking, cooked till very soft and 
then mashed and sieved. No form of cooking that 
does not include sieving can be recommended except 
for very hardy stomachs. See pages 55 and 117. 

This vegetable must also be treated 
with care. The starch grains of which 
it is so largely composed swell in the process of cook- 
ing, and burst the cellulose walls confining them, but 
when this stage is reached the potato is too often 
spoiled by being allowed to absorb steam and become 
sodden. As soon as tender, boiled potatoes should 
be drained, dried out a few moments, then sprinkled 
with salt, and the kettle covered close with a towel, 
until they are served. They should then be put into 
a napkin and sent to the table. 

Other garden vegetables are cooked 

Other vegetables. , ,., . . . , .,. 

more or less alike; put into boiling 
water and kept at a rapid boil until tender, and no 
115 



116 Cooking of Vegetables. 

longer, — the length of time varying for any given 
vegetable according to the freshness, size, and degree 
of maturity. When done or nearly so, they should 
be seasoned and served as soon as possible. 

A welcome variety in the serving of 

Mixed vegetables. , ,, ij? j • 1 -ii* 1 

vegetables can be round in skiJliul 
mixture of two or more kinds. A few of these mix- 
tures are, green corn and shelled beans, or succotash, 
green corn and tomatoes, green corn with stewed 
potatoes, potatoes and turnips mashed together, green 
peas with a quarter as many carrots cut very small, 
potatoes with same proportion of carrots and seasoned 
with fried sliced onions poured over. 
Vegetables and There are also mixtures of vegetables 
fruits. and fruits that are very successful, as 

lentils or beans with a border of stewed prunes. 



SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT. 



In general. These soups should be largely used by 
the economical housewife; they are cheap and nutri- 
tious, and if carefully made and seasoned, excellent 
in taste. A large number of recipes are given, from 
which can be selected what is suited to materials on 
hand, to amount of time and quantity of fire. 

These will be arranged under Vegetable Soups, 
Flour and Bread Soups, and Cold Soups. 

VEGETABLE SOUPS. 

If any meat bones are on hand or trimmings of 
meat not otherwise needed, simmer them from one to 
two hours in water and use the broth thus obtained 
instead of water in making any of the following soups. 

Most important are those made from the dried bean, 
pea and lentil, the three pod-covered vegetables. For 
their nutritive qualities see page 81. 

Ingredients. 1 lb. beans, 1 onion, 2 
tablespoons beef fat, salt and pepper. 

Additions, to be made according to taste. \ lb. 
pork, or a ham bone, a pinch of red pepper, or, an 
hour before serving, different vegetables, as carrots 
and turnips, chopped and fried. 

Soak the beans over night in 2 qts. water. In 
the morning pour off, put on fresh water and cook 
117 



118 Vegetable Soups. 

with the onion and fat till very soft, then mash or 
press through a cullender to remove the skins, and 
add enough water to make 2 qts. of somewhat thick 
soup. Season. 

This soup may also be made from cold baked beans. 
Boil i hr., or till they fall to pieces, then strain and 
season, 
split or dried Make like bean soup. 

pea soup. r 

Lentil soup. Make like bean soup. 

The water in which vegetables have 
Green vegetable b een cooked should never be thrown 
away, with the exception of that used 
for cooking beets, and potatoes boiled without peeling; 
even cabbage water can be made the basis of a good 
soup. 

General method. Boil the vegetables until very 
tender, mash or press through a cullender, thin suffi- 
ciently and season. 
Potato soup. Good and cheap. 

Ingredients. 6 large potatoes peeled, 1 large onion, 
1 heaping teaspoon salt, i teaspoon pepper. For a 
richer soup add i lb. salt pork cut in bits (in this 
case put in less salt) or add 1 cup of milk or a beaten 
egg. Chopj)ed celery leaves give a good flavor. 

Boil potatoes, onions and salt in a little water, 
and when very soft mash ; then add, a little at 
a time and stirring to keep it smooth, a qt. of hot 
water and 1 tablespoon beef fat in which 1 tablespoon 
flour has been cooked ; or use the fat for frying bread 
dice, which add at the last minute. 

Most cooks fry the sliced onion before putting it 
in the soup, but the difference in taste is so slight as 



Vegetable Soups. 119 

not to be worth the few minutes extra time, if time is 

an object. 

This is a delicious soup and very nutri- 
Green pea soup. ,. T ,.*", x 

tious. Large peas, a little too hard to 
be used as a vegetable, may be utilized in its manu- 
facture. 

Ingredients. 1 pt. shelled peas, 3 pts. water, 1 
small onion, 1 tablespoon butter or fat, 1 tablespoon 
flour. Salt and pepper. 

Put peas and onion in boiling water aud cook \ an 
hour to an hour, till very soft. Press through cul- 
lender and season. 

Pea and tomato Add to above when done, 1 pt. stewed 
soup. tomatoes and a little more seasoning. 

This is an excellent soup, having the nutrition of the 
pea and the flavor of the tomato. 

Valuable for its fine flavor, and may 

Tomato soup. , _ . . . J 

be made nutritious also by adding broth, 
milk or eggs, 

Ingredients. 1 pt. tomatoes, 2 pts. water, 1 table- 
spoon fat, 1 tablespoon flour, salt and pepper. 

Cook the flour in the fat, add the peeled tomatoes 
and a very little water. When they have cooked to 
pieces, mash them against the side of the pot, add 
the rest of the water and the seasoning. 
Tomato soup Proceed as above, using instead of half 

No - 2 - the water, 1 pt. of milk, into which J 

tea spoon soda has been stirred. 

Ingredients. 1 pt. of parsnips cut in 

Parsnip soup. . L x * 

pieces, 3 small potatoes, 3 pts. water, 
or water and milk, salt, pepper and butter. 
Cook till the vegetables fall to pieces, mash and add 



120 Vegetable Soups. 

seasoning. If milk can be substituted for part of the 

water the soup will be improved. 

Young vegetable Ingredients. 1 pt. chopped onion, 

or spring soup, carrot, turnips and celery root in about 
equal parts, 1 tablespoon fat, 1 teaspoon sugar, salt 
and pepper. 

Heat the fat, add sugar, salt and pepper, then stir 
the vegetables in it till they begin to brown, add 3 
pts. water and set back to simmer 1 to 2 hours. Serve 
without straining. 

Ingredients. -J- doz. ears green corn, 

reen corn soup, g ^^ water, 1 tablespoon fat and 1 

tablespoon flour salt and pepper, an egg and a cup of 
milk. 

Cut the corn from the cob and boil one hour. Add 
the flour which has been fried in the fat, season and 

strain. 

Make as above, using dried corn, 
com soup. goa ^ e( j over -QJght an( j boiled 2 hours. 

Sorrel soup. An excellent flavor, new to most of us. 

Ingredients. 1 pt. sheep's sorrel, light measure 
(bought in city markets, or gathered in country 
fields), 1 onion, a few leaves of lettuce and parsley 
all chopped fine, -J teaspoon nutmeg, 1 tablespoon 
fat, 2 tablespoons flour, 3 pts. water, 1 or 2 eggs, 1 cup 
milk, salt and pepper. 

Heat the fat, add the chopped vegetables and sweat 
or steam for 10 minutes, then add flour and last the 
boiling water; add the milk just before serving. 
Serve fried bread with it. 

u mt and Miss" To illustrate how all bits can be 
soup. used, here is a soup actually made from 

"leavings." 



Flour and Bread Soups. 121 

1 cup water drained from macaroni, 1 cup water 
drained from cabbage, with a few shreds of the cab- 
bage, 2 small bones from roast veal, 1 scant tablespoon 
boiled rice. Simmer these together with a chopped 
onion while the rest of the dinner is cooking, thicken 
with a little flour and serve with fried bread. 

FLOUR AND BREAD SOUPS. 

Flour soup. Ingredients. 1 tablespoon beef fat, 1 
heaping tablespoon flour, 2 sliced onions, 2 pts. water, 
1 pt. milk, 1 cupful of mashed potato, salt and pepper. 

Fry the onions in the fat until light brown; remove, 
pressing out the fat. In same fat now cook the flour 
till it is yellow, and add, a little at a time, the water. 
Put back the onions and let it stand awhile, then 
add milk and potato. Salt well. 

The potato may be omitted and a little more flour 
used. 
Browned Flour Ingredients. 1 tablespoon butter or 

soup. f a ^ ± CU p fl our? 2 pts. water, 1 pt. milk, 

1 teaspoon salt. 

Cook the flour brown in the fat over a slow fire or 
in the oven; add slowly the water and other ingredi- 
ents. Serve with fried bread. 
Browned Farina Make like above, but of wheat farina. 

soup. ' 

Bread soup. Ingredients. Dry bread, broken in bits, 
water, salt and pepper, an onion and a little fat. 

Soak the bread in boiling water for a few minutes, 
add the onion sliced and fried in the fat; salt and 
pepper well. 

Or, use milk instead of water, and toasted or fried 
bread. 

11 



122 Milk Sou])s. 

Noodle soup. (See page 91. ) 

MILK SOUPS OR PORRIDGES. 

These are especially good in families where there 
are children, and would be welcome on almost any 
supper table. They are almost equally good eaten 
cold. 

In making, use a porcelain kettle or an iron kettle, 
greasing it first with a little fat, as a scorched taste 
spoils the dish. 

Wheat Porridge Ingredients. 3 pts. milk, 1 pt. of 
(salted. ) W ater ( or half water and half milk), £ 
cup flour, 2 eggs, 2 teaspoons salt. 

To the boiling milk and water, add the flour stirred 
smooth with a little cold milk; let it cook 10 minutes. 
Beat the eggs in gradually, but do not cook them ; 
serve with fried bread. Grated cheese is an addition 
to this soup. 

wheat Porridge Same as above, but using only a pinch 
(sweet.) f ga i^ an d as flavoring 3 tablespoons 
sugar and J teaspoon cinnamon. The flavor may be 
varied by using grated lemon peel, nutmeg, vanilla, 
bitter almond or 2 fresh peach leaves boiled with the 

milk. 

_. „ . These two porridges are still better 

Of Farma. L ° 

made of farina instead of flour. 
Barie Porrid e P ear l barley is soaked over night in 

water, and then cooked for 2 hours till 
soft. During the last hour add milk instead of 
water, as it dries away. Flavor with salt and butter. 
Indian Meal Ingredients. 1 cup meal, 2 qts. water, 

Porridge. i tablespoon flour, 1 pt. milk, salt, and 

a little ginger (if liked). Boil the meal and water 



Milk Soups. 123 

an hour; add flour and salt and boil £ hour, and add 

the milk just before serving. 

Oatmeal Make in the same way, using oat- 

Porndge. meal instead of flour. 
Graham 1 cup graham flour to 3 pts. milk and 

Porridge. wa ter. Cook 15 minutes. This may 
be varied in flavor like flour porridge. 

These three Porridges can be made from cold corn, 
oatmeal or graham mush. 

Ingredients. \ lb. chocolate, 2^ qts. 

Chocolate Soup. .,, , ... 

milk and water, sugar to taste, 1 egg 
yolk, a little vanilla or cinnamon. 

Cook the chocolate soft in a little water and add 
the rest; when boiling put in the other ingredients 
and cook the beaten white of an egg in spoonfuls on 
the top. Serve with fried bread. 
Buttermilk Soup The foreign kitchen has many recipes 
or "Pop." f or this soup quite unknown among us. 
Cooking brings out the acid, but once used to that 
taste, one finds the soup good and wholesome. 

Ingredients. To each pt. of buttermilk, 1 table- 
spoon flour and 1 tablespoon butter, a little salt. 

Bring gradually to a boil, stirring constantly to pre- 
vent curdling, and pour on fried bread. 

Varieties. Sugar and cinnamon are often added 
to this soup; also the yolk and beaten white of 1 egg. 
It is considered nutritious for the sick. 

Another. The Germans often add to this soup 
small potatoes, and bits of fried bacon. In which 
case the butter is omitted. 

Or to the buttermilk soup when done, is added 
half the quantity of cooked pears or prunes. 



124 Fruit Soups. 

Brewis. To salted boiling milk, put enough 

bread crumbs (either white or graham) to make a 
thick smooth porridge. 

This soup is earnestly recommended 

Sour Cream Soup. » , . , , - , . , 

for trial, as there are few ways in which 
such a delicious taste may be given to simple materails. 

Ingredients. 3 pts. water, ^ cup sour cream and the 
following mixture: \ cup milk, | cup flour, 1 teaspoon 
butter, ^ tablespoon salt, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 egg, 
1 tablespoon fluid yeast or \ teaspoon compressed 
yeast. Mix these together into a dough and let it 
get light, then drop half of it in teaspoonfuls into 
the boiling water and cream; then thin the rest with 
water until it will pour, add it to the soup and cook 
5 minutes. (Not all the dough may be needed.) 

Ingredients. 1 pt. cider just begin- 
ning to work, 1 pt. water, 1 cup milk 
(boiling), 1 tablespoon flour, a little cinnamon and 
sugar. 

Let cider and water come to a boil, add the flour rub- 
bed smooth, and cook a few minutes; and lastly add 
the milk. Serve witli toast. An egg yolk may be 
added. 

FRUIT SOUPS. 

To be eaten Warm or Cold 

These are made of almost any well flavored fruit, 
cooked soft and mashed, sufficient water added, with 
a little thickening, sugar and spice. They are espe- 
cially welcome in summer; may be eaten as a first 
course, or set aside to be used as a drink during the 
meal. 



Fruit Soups. 125 

Ingredients. 4 cups peeled and quar- 

Apple soup, No. L.J , , -. , , 

tered apples, cooked to a mush in a 
little water, 1| pts. water, 1 teaspoon cornstarch, 3 
teaspoons sugar, J teaspoon cinnamon, a pinch of salt. 
No. 2. A soup plate full apples, 1 cup of rice. 

Cook soft and rub through a sieve, adding a little 
sugar, cinnamon, lemon peel, and an egg yolk. Thin 
sufficiently with water. 

No. 3. Instead of rice, use in the above recipe 

bread with the addition of a few India currants. 
No. 4. Instead of rice, use oatmeal and cook 

till soft, or use that already cooked. 

Make like apple soup, but if the 
plums are very sour add a little soda, 
— J teaspoon to a qt. of soup, 
cherry Soup. Made in the same manner. 

These soups may also be made of dried plums, prunes 
or dried sour cherries. Soak the fruit over night, 
soups of Pears, I f S0U P is ma(le of a milder fruit, as 
etc -. pears, which are at some seasons so 

cheap, add a few sour apples or more spice, to give 
flavor. 



ADDITIONS TO SOUPS. 



If your soup has not strength enough, milk and 
eggs may be added if no meat stock is at hand. 

The egg should be beaten, mixed with 
' ' a little of the soup, then added to the 
rest, but not boiled. The yolk is better for this pur- 
pose than the white. 

Liebig's meat extract is very valuable 
for adding flavor to a soup but it is too 
expensive for general use. 

This may be boiled a few minutes 
with the soup after being mixed smooth 
in a little water, or better, cook it in a little butter or 
melted beef fat before adding to the soup. 

On baking day, save a little of the 

2. Bread Sponge. , , in- i j. 

bread sponge, make thin enough to 
pour, and if you wish, add a beaten egg. Set away 
half an hour to rise again, and when light pour into 
the soup. 

This preparation of wheat, now sold 
by the pound at a reasonable price, is 
most valuable as an addition to soup ; it needs only 
to be sprinkled in and boiled for a few moments. 

Mashed potato mixed smooth with a 
little milk or grated cold potato may 
be added to soup to give body. 
126 



Additions to Soups. 127 

5. Barley. Add to the soup 1 hour before it is done 

pearl barley that has been soaked over night. 

One-half hour before serving, add to 

soup 1 tablespoon of rice to a quart of soup. 

Bits of bread dried hard in the oven, 

may be added to the soup just before 

serving, or fry them in the spider in a little beef fat, 

or soak in milk and egg before frying. Or, toast 

bread and cut in squares. 

Any small vegetables may be added, 

8. Vegetables. , . 1- • ' 

such as asparagus tops, tiny onions 
that have been first boiled in another pot, cooked 
peas, beans, etc. A favorite Kussian soup is beef 
soup, with the addition of beets, cabbage and carrots. 
Most important of all additions to soup are those 
which need a little more time to prepare, but are 
worth the trouble if the soup is to be the principal 
part of the dinner. Such are the following: 

DUMPLINGS FOR SOUPS AND STEWS. 

This word has an unpleasant sound, too suggestive 
of the heavy and unwholesome balls often served 
under this name, but there seems to be no other name 
under which these different preparations can be 
classed. Their basis is bread and eggs, or flour and 
eggs. 

Bread mentioned here is hard dried bfead ; it must 

be softened by soaking in cold water ( hot water makes 

it pasty), then press it dry in a cloth and crumble it. 

Any cooked meat or several different 

Meat Balls. kindg when there y toQ Httle of each 

to be otherwise used, is chopped fine and mixed with 



128 Dumvlings for Soups and Stews. 

as much bread, salted and peppered, a little chopped 
suet or butter, or better still, marrow, and a chopped 
onion and some herbs, and to each cup of this mix- 
ture allow an egg. Mix lightly, make out into little 
balls and cook in very gently boiling soup. Try one 
first to see if it holds together. If not, add a little 
flour. 

Substitute for the meat any cooked 

Fish balls. n , , -. n 

fish, chopped fine. 

Two eggs to 1 cup of bread and mar- 
Marrow balls. . , t nf i 

row size of an egg, chopped. Make as 

above. 

Instead of marrow, add cubes of 

Bacon Balls. , „ . , , 

bacon tried brown. 
All these mixtures can also be fried in a pan as an 
omelette, or baked. 

Flour and Bread Three cups, half bread, half flour, 1 
Bails. e gg^ butter size of an egg, 1 cup milk 

and water, salt. Soak the bread in the milk and 
water, and make out into little balls with the other in- 
gredients. Cook, covered, 15 minutes (may also be 
boiled in salted water and eaten with fruit). 

One egff, 1 teaspoon flour, a little 

Egg Sponge. fe ° ' £ ' 

salt. Beat white of egg to foam, mix 
lightly with the rest and pour on top of the soup. 
Turn over in a few minutes with a skimmer, and be- 
fore putting into the turreen, cut it in pieces. 

No. 2. 1 heaping tablespoon flour to 1 egg and the 
yolk of another, and 1 teaspoon butter. Beat hard 
and drop in with a teaspoon. 

Schwaben Spet- One egg, 3 tablespoons milk, nearly 
zel - | cup of flour, salt. Pour through a 



Dumplings for Soups and Stews. 129 

funnel into soup or into salted water, cook 5 min- 
utes and use to garnish beef. 

Biscuit Dough An excellent addition to a stew or 

Bails. S oup is of biscuit or rusk dough ( see 

page 98), made into balls no larger than a chestnut, 
and cooked in the stew, or steamed in a cloth above 
it. 

Also the following of buttermilk: 1 

Buttermilk Balls. . ... ° 

cup buttermilk, £ teaspoon of soda, 1 
egg, salt, and flour enough to allow of the batter 
being dropped in spoonfuls. 

Cooked macaroni cut in pieces an 

Macaroni. , . , . , l 

men long, is a pleasant addition to soup. 



FLAVORS OB SEASONINGS. 



Without doubt "hunger is the best sauce," but it 
is not true, as many think, that a craving for variety 
is the sign of a pampered and unnatural appetite; 
even animals, whom we cannot accuse of having 
"notions," have been known to starve in the exper- 
imenter's hands rather than eat a perfectly nutri- 
tious food of whose flavor they had wearied, and pris- 
oners become so tired of a too oft repeated dish that 
they vomit at the sight and smell of it. 

What we call flavors may or may not be associated 
with a real food. Meats are rich in flavors and each 
fruit has its peculiar taste; then, there are the spices 
and aromatic herbs which are not parts of a real food, 
and it is most important that the cook should under- 
stand the art of adding these as seasonings to mild tast- 
ing foods, so as to make new dishes which shall be both 
nutritious and appetizing. The bulk of our nourish- 
ment must be made up of the flesh of a few animals, 
a half-dozen grains and as many garden vegetables, 
but the skillful cook can make of them, with the 
help of other flavors, an endless variety of dishes. 

An American traveling on the continent of Europe 

becomes acquainted with many new dishes and tastes, 

and although not all of them are to his liking, he 

must conclude that our cookery, compared for in- 

130 



Flavorings. 131 

stance, with that of the French, is very monotonous. 
To be sure, we have the advantage of the European 
in that our markets offer us a greater variety of nat- 
ural foods, especially fruits, each having a flavor of 
its own, and this fact makes us somewhat more inde- 
pendent of the art of the cook; but still we have need 
for every lesson of this sort, and especially is this the 
case with the poor, who must keep to the cheapest 
food materials, which are not in themselves rich in 
flavor. 

Spices and other flavors, when not used to excess, 
stimulate our digestive organs to appropriate more 
easily the food to which they are added; their agree- 
able odor starts the digestive juices, both in the 
mouth and in the stomach, and their flavor acting 
on the palate has the same effect. 

The more common spices and flavors, as the house- 
wife uses these terms, are salt, pepper, mustard, cin- 
namon and mace, nutmegs, cloves, ginger, caraway 
and coriander seeds, vanilla, and many volatile oils, 
such as those contained in the rind of lemons and 
oranges; and to this list we must add certain vegeta- 
bles, as the horseradish and various members of the 
onion family, the caper and nasturtium seeds, and the 
aromatic herbs. 

All these have their use and their abuse. Salt is 
hardly thought of in this list, so necessary do we con- 
sider it, and its use is well enough governed by our 
palate, though no doubt we over, rather than under 
salt our foods. Pepper is also in nearly every house- 
hold used to excess, being added to too many dishes. 
The pungent mustard should be still more carefully 



132 Flavorings. 

used; but a little of it adds relish to a salad or a meat 
sauce, and goes especially well with certain vegetables, 
as beans. Cinnamon, mace and nutmeg, we use prin- 
cipally with sweet dishes, but nutmeg makes a nice 
variety in certain meat stews and in croquettes; 
foreign cooks use it far too much to suit our taste. 
Almost our only use of the caraway and coriander 
seeds is in cookies ; try the former in a potato soup 
for variety. Ginger seems to go well with Indian 
meal in a pudding or porridge, and with molasses, 
wherever used. 

To give the uses for onions and for the aromatic 
herbs would be too long a task. The latter can all be 
bought in a dried state very cheaply, and they retain 
their flavor well; one of the most useful, however, 
parsley, is much better fresh ; by all means keep a 
little box of it growing in a window. Perhaps, after 
onion, celery is most useful as a flavor for soups and 
stews, root, stem, leaves and seeds being all valuable. 

In the flavoring of soups and stews, it is well to use 
a number of flavors, letting no one of them be promi- 
nent above the others ; on the other hand, it is well 
to have certain favorite dishes seasoned always in the 
same way ; as fresh pork with sage; summer savory 
in a bread dressing, etc. 



DRINKS AT MEALS. 



A warm drink at meals is better than a cold one, es- 
pecially in winter or at any time when we are tired; and 
the drinking of ice water cannot be too strongly con- 
demned, lowering as it does the temperature of the 
stomach and so delaying digestion. To furnish warm 
drinks for each meal, acceptable to the palate, cheap 
and harmless, is no easy question. Soups or broth 
once adopted as a part of two meals in the day, as is 
so frequently seen in Europe, and the problem is half 
solved ; indeed some of the drinks here given are really 
thin vegetable soups or porridges to which the flavor 
of salt or of sugar may be given according to taste. 

It may be concluded, after comparing 
authors on the subject, that although 
coffee somewhat retards digestion and acts as a stimu- 
lant to the nervous system, still one or even two cups 
of moderately strong coffee a day will not harm a 
healthy person. We may say, therefore, that its use 
to this extent is a question of expense only. 

Java and Mocha coffee in equal parts are considered 
the best mixture. Eio is much cheaper, and of strong, 
pure flavor. The amount to be used for moderately 
strong coffee is 1 tablespoon ( ground) to a cup. 

Chicory is considered here only as an adulterant, 
whereas in Europe a very little of it, say i teaspoon of 
183 



134 Coffee and Tea. 

the prepared chicory to a cup of ground coffee, is 
used to improve the flavor. 

Next to the quality of the coffee, it is of importance 
that it should be freshly ground and browned. If 
you buy it browned, reheat it first before grinding. 
The easiest and most economical way of making is to 
grind it very fine and put into a bag made of woven 
stuff, a white stocking top will do ; leave room to 
swell. Heat this in your coffee pot as hot as you can 
without burning. Pour on boiling water and keep it 
hot and close-covered for 15 or 20 minutes. 

Boiling coffee increases its strength, but does not 
improve its flavor. 

All authors agree as to the harmful- 
ness of strong tea, taken to excess. 

Take great pains in making tea. Use an earthen 
teapot, and have a tea cozy or a large flannel cloth to 
wrap it in. 

The water used should be between hard and soft, 
extracting the aroma but not the astringency; in 
China river water is used. If hard water must be 
used, remember that boiling increases its hardness 
and that it should be used as soon as it reaches the 
boiling point. 

Take 1 teaspoonf ul of tea to a cup, put it in the teapot 
and heat in an oven till hot, pour on 1 cup of water 
that has just come to a boil, and cover with the tea 
cozy. Let it stand 5 minutes, then fill up with the 
requisite quantity of hot water and serve immediately. 
Cocoa and choco- These both contain a good deal of 
late. nourishment, and as drinks are con- 

sidered rather heavy. As the various kinds differ 



Gruels. 135 

very much from each other, they are best prepared 
according to the recipes found on the packages. 

Milk, except for children, can hardly 

be looked upon as a drink, but diluted 

with hot water, and sweetened, it has already been 

christened for the children as "cambric tea," and it 

is no bad drink for their elders. 

A very thin gruel, slightly sweetened, 

VJrCTielS. . -i -i • l 

is a good drink. 
Oatmeal gruel. i n t a qt. of boiling water stir 2 table- 
spoons oatmeal ; boil for an hour or longer, strain 
through a coarse sieve or a cullender, add a pinch of 
salt, and a little milk and sugar. 

Wet 1 tablespoon rice flour in a little 

Rice firru©! 

cold milk, put into 1 qt. boiling water, 
salt slightly and boil till transparent. Flavor with a 
little lemon peel and sugar. 

1 qt. boiling water, 3 tablespoons 

Cornmeal gruel. , n , . . , 

corn meal washed m several waters, £ 
teaspoon salt ; add -J cup milk and a little sugar ; — a 
pinch of ginger is an improvement. 

Soak pearl or ground barley all night 

Barleygruel. \ . b , A , J , . , 

or a few hours in cold water, put into 
boiling water and cook till very soft. Season like the 
others. 
Sago g^e^ 00 * Can be made in the same way. 

All these drinks must be thin and not too highly 

seasoned. 

Brown common field corn as you 

would coffee, as brown as you can without 

burning. Grind coarsely and steep like coffee. Add 

milk and sugar, and you will find it a delicious drink. 



136 Summer Drinks. 

Cold drinks in Lemonade is too strongly acid for a 
Summer. regular drink at meals, but lemon as a 

flavor is always welcome. 

Irish moss lemon- Wash a handful of Irish moss in 5 
ade. waters, ponr over it 2 qts. boiling water 

and let it stand till cold. Strain, adding more water 
if necessary and add the juice of 2 lemons and sweeten 
with lump sugar which you have rubbed on the lemons 
to obtain the oil in the skin. 

1 lb. sugar, 1 oz. tartaric acid dis- 
solved in a pt. of hot water. When 
cold flavor with lemon zest or extract, and add the 
beaten white of an egg. When used, add 2 table- 
spoons of it to a glass of water in which you have 
dissolved £ teaspoon soda. 

Slice juicy sour apples into boiling 
water and keep warm an hour. Strain 
and sweeten. All these drinks taste best cooled (but 
not too cold) with ice. 

Sweet cider can be bottled for use 
and makes a delicious drink. Boil and 
skim till it is clear — no longer; pour hot into bottles, 
and seal. 

See also vegetable and fruit soups. 



COOKERY FOE THE SICK 



It is comparatively easy for your family to live on a 
small income while all its members are in good health, 
but you will find your resources all too slender when 
you must cater for the appetite of an invalid. 

At best, sickness is always a severe drain on the 
limited income, but here, as in every other depart- 
ment of your work, you will find that good sense and 
ingenuity will often stand you in stead for money. 

During a severe illness the food as much as the 
medicine is under the care of the physician, but when 
the danger is over and he has left you with only gen- 
eral directions, you will be more than likely in 
your bewilderment to take the advice of the first 
neighbor that drops in, although you may know that 
neither her judgment nor experience is as good as 
your own. 

Now consider first, what did the doctor mean by 
saying that the patient must be " built up," and how 
is the wasted frame to get back the fat and muscle 
that were burned away in the sickness? Chiefly, as 
you know, by the digestion of food, the proteids and 
fats and carbohydrates that we have been talking 
about, and still another, a real food although so often 
forgotten, the oxygen of the air. 

We have said that we need not concern ourselves 
about this food, that it would take care of itself; and 
so it will when we are in a state of health and living 
12 137 



138 Cookery for the Sick. 

as human beings should, for as we walk or work we 
are fed by the air without knowing it. But the case 
is quite different with a poor invalid shut up in a sick 
room, we must bring the fresh air to him with as 
much care and regularity as we do his jellies and broths. 

When we are considering what we shall feed our 
invalid, we cannot do better than keep to our old 
classification of Proteids, Fats, and Carbohydrates. 
He must have all these principles but in the most 
digestible form, for the stomach is feeble like the rest 
of the body. For this reason the proteids must be 
furnished mainly from the animal kingdom, butter 
and cream must supply the fat, and the carbohy- 
drates must bring with them as little as possible of 
the tough cellulose, and they must be so cooked as 
to be easily digested. 

First, as to the Proteids. 

Hot milk, given often in small quantities, is much 
used in the early stages of recovery and is generally 
better liked if accompanied by a bit of toasted bread 
or made into a thin gruel. 

In the first rank, also, comes soup made of lean 
beef scraped fine, covered with cold water and allowed 
to stand for an hour, then brought slowly to scalding 
heat and kept there for a short time; it is then 
strained through a coarse sieve, the small brown 
flakes being allowed to pass. Season only with salt. 
Or, broil a thick, tender steak, cut it in pieces, and 
then with a lemon squeezer press out every particle 
of juice, it may then be diluted and seasoned. 

Mutton broth is made like beef soup but should be 
cooked a longer time. Chicken broth also requires 
more cooking. 



Cookery for the Sick. 139 

Any of these soups may have a little rice or tapioca 
cooked with them. 

Eggs are an important item in the diet of an inva- 
lid, being very nutritious and, if fresh, easily diges- 
ted; do not use them at all if uncertain of their age. 

Eggs may be given raw ( see page 58 ) or soft-boiled 
(see page 59 ) or poached in hot water. An egg may 
be served in many ways and makes always a pretty 
and attractive dish. In cooking, it should never be 
submitted to a high temperature, as that makes the 
white part horny and indigestible. 

A custard made from an egg and a cup of milk and 
a half table spoon of sugar may be given early in a 
convalescence. Or use beef soup or chicken broth 
instead of the milk, and flavor with a little salt and 
pepper. These custards should be made in a pail set 
in a kettle of boiling water, the custard being stirred 
till it begins to thicken. 

Next in order, comes cooked meat. Beef is best 
of all, but let it be juicy and tender and broil or roast 
it, serving it rare* Probably a broiled mutton chop 
ranks next, although chicken, because of its delicate 
flavor will often receive the first choice. An invalid 
should not touch pork, and should be given veal or 
lamb only in the form of soup. 

As to fats, the system needs them of course, but 
fat meat should not be given, only butter or better 
still, cream. The butter must never be melted and 
soaked into the food, nor made into a sauce. 

As to the vegetable part of the diet, much care 
must be used. In the form of gruel or porridge, it 
is generally very welcome and gives the fluid part of 



140 Cookery for the Sick. 

the meal in a good form. For Indian meal and oat- 
meal porridge see page 122. Milk may take the place 
of the water. 

Toast is with good reason considered invalids' food, 
for the process of toasting turns part of the starch of 
the bread into dextrine which is digested with great 
ease. Grains may be also browned or roasted. Roast 
rice as you would coffee, cook as usual and eat with 
a little cream. Remember that bread for toast must 
be cut thin and first dried out at a little distance from 
the fire, then brought nearer and browned. You may 
then serve it as dry toast lightly buttered, or in addi- 
tion to the butter and a little salt, pour hot water or 
milk on it just before serving. 

Panada of toasted brown bread, white bread or 
crackers, is made by piling the pieces in a bowl, hav- 
ing sprinkled either salt or sugar over, and then pour- 
ing over enough boiling water to soak them well. It 
should be kept hot for an hour or more, the pieces then 
lifted out carefully on a hot saucer and served with a 
little cream and perhaps more salt or sugar. Nutmeg 
may be added. 

Rice is also a very valuable food for use in sickness, 
as it does not tax the most delicate digestion. 

Macaroni is easily digested and of high food \alue. 
It should be boiled in salted hot water till tender and 
served with a little butter or cream. Or it may be 
added to a custard and lightly baked. 

Barley, thoroughly cooked, is good food for an in- 
valid. Oatmeal must be used with caution until the 
digestion becomes stronger. 

As to vegetables proper, a mealy baked potatoe is 



Cookery for the Sick. 141 

perhaps the first to be introduced into the bill of fare; 
remove the inside, mash fine and season with a little 
salt and cream. Beware of potatoes cooked in any 
other way. 

The juice of fruits may be used early as a flavor in 
drinks, but the pulp must be discarded. A baked 
apple is safest to begin with, when the time comes to 
introduce fruit as such into the diet. 

As to the serving, use the best china, silver and 
linen that you have in the house and let exquisite 
neatness never fail. 

Eemember that surprises are delightful to a sick 
person; never let the bill of fare be known before 
hand, and if you can disguise a well known dish, so 
much the better. Beaten white of egg is a good fairy 
and serves you cheaply. Snowy white or made golden 
brown in the oven, it may top many a dish, conceal- 
ing at one time a custard, at another a mold of chicken 
jelly or even a cup of delicate apple sauce. 

The processes of cooking, if simple, an invalid loves 
to watch and the sight is often a whet to the appetite. 
Bring his gruel to him in the form of mush and thin 
it before his eyes with milk or cream, coddle his egg 
in a stone ware bowl while he eats another course, 
and by all means make his tea at the bed-side. 



BILLS OF FAKE. 



The following bills of fare are made out for a 
family of six persons, consisting of a working man, 
two women, and three children between the ages of 
six and fifteen, the size of the family and the ages 
attained being considered sufficiently near the average. 

The amount of food and the proportions in which 
the great food principles are represented approximate 
to what is demanded by standard dietaries for such a 
family. For the man of the family we have taken, as 
has been said, the one proposed by Professor Atwater 
for an American at average manual labor, for the 
women and children those proposed by Prof. Konig. 
The amounts represented by them 

Dietary adopted. 

are : 

Proteid, Pats. ^bohy- 

Man _ 125 gms. 125 gms. 400 gms. 

2 women (each) 96 " 48 " 400 " 

3 children, 6 to 15 yrs. ?6 l( u (( 320 (t 

(each) 

Sum total is 545 gms. 353 gms. 2210 gms. 

Or translated into oz 19.19oz. 12.42oz. 78.03 oz. 

In calculating these amounts we have followed 
almost entirely the analytical tables compiled by Prof. 
Konig. 

Meat is reckoned without bone and moderately 
fat, and in nearly all the bills of fare the amount of 

142 



Bills of Fare. 143 

proteids enough exceeds that required by the dietary 
adopted so that we can afford this loss. Flour is of 
medium quality, eggs are reckoned without shell, and 
milk as weighing 34.4 oz. per qt. 

As to prices, they are mainly those of Baltimore 
markets, corrected in some cases by those of New York. 
Eggs are reckoned as costing in the spring 18 cts., 
in Fall and Winter 25 cts., canned fruit is put down 
at the price paid for the fruit in Summer. The cost 
of raw material is given in all cases, bread being 
reckoned at the cost of the flour contained in it. 

In three different seasons, four days in succession 
are selected, these days being the ones considered most 
trying to the housekeeper — Saturday, Sunday, Monday 
and Tuesday, and this gives an opportunity to show 
how the food should be planned and cooked ahead. 
It is intended that on Saturday the food for Sunday 
should be cooked as nearly as possible, as the Sunday 
dinner should be a good one but requiring a minimum 
of labor on that day; the dinner on Monday should 
be such as can be cooked on the back of the stove and 
in the oven. 

The recipes will have to be varied a little according 
to advice given in appropriate places as to economy, 
e. g., substituting beef fat for butter, or adding it 
when skim milk is used instead of whole milk. 

It is intended that each day there shall be a small 
surplus of money for purchasing seasonings and 
flavors. 

INTRODUCTION TO BILLS OF FARE, CLASS I. 

(To the Mother of the Family.) 
In the general introduction the writer has stated a 



144 Introductory Letter. 

few principles that should guide us in choosing our 
food. We have learned that to keep us in good health 
and working order we ought to have a certain amount 
of what is best furnished by meat, eggs, milk and 
other animal products, and that we must also have 
fats as well as what is given us in grains and vegetables. 

But now our work has only just begun for we are to 
furnish these food principles in the shape of cooked 
dishes to be put on the family table three times a day, 
and the dishes must not only be nourishing but they 
must taste good, and there must be plenty of variety 
from day to day; and last — and this is the hardest 
point of all — we are to try to do this for the sum of 
18 cents per person daily. 

I am going to consider myself as talking to the 
mother of a family who has six mouths to feed, and 
no more money than this to do it with. Perhaps this 
woman has never kept accurate accounts and does not 
know whether she spends more or less than this sum. 
She very likely has her " flush " days and her " poor " 
days according to the varying amounts of the family 
earnings, and it may be a comfort to her to know that 
if she could average these days and plan a little bet- 
ter, she can feed her family nicely on this sum. 

A few facts as to what the writer knows to have been 
done in this line will not be amiss. I knew a family 
of 6 belonging to one of the professional classes, half, 
grown people, and half, children, that lived for a 
year on an average of 11 cents per person daily, and 
no one would have said that they did not live well 
enough; they had meat about four days out of the 
seven, there was always cake on their supper table, 
and they used plenty of fruit. 



Introductory Letter. 145 

Here is an average bill of faro. Breakfast -milk 
toast fried potatoes, coffee; dinner-soup made of 
shank of beef fried liver, rice and potatoes; supp 

cake. Next day there was pressed beef made from 
the soup meat chopped and flavored, and next day 
there was cheap fish nicely fried. The head of this 
household was a skillful economist, absolutely no mis- 

wS S /T rf 6 iU ° 00king ' and not a 80 ™P was 
wasted, she had a long list of simple dishes at her 

command and she especially studied variety. "I 
abandon even a favorite dish for weeks," she said 
if any one tires of it." I gi ve this as a sample of 
what I know to have been done by a highly respect- 
able family m a city of small size in one of our east- 
ern states. 

It must be mentioned that the price on which this 
family lived m comfort could not have been as low as 
it was but for one great help; they had a small gar- 
den that furnished green vegetables and a little fruit 
But then almost every family has some special advan- 
tage that would lower the rate somewhat; one buys 
butter or fruit advantageously of friends in the coun- 
try, another can buy at wholesale when certain staples 
are cheapest, still another may be able to keep a few 
fowls and so on. Numerous instances could be 
brought to prove that the food for a family can be pur- 
chased in a raw condition for the sum per head for 
which we have undertaken to buy it, and that by skill 
in cooking, flavoring and giving right variety, a health- 
ful and very acceptable diet can be furnished, thou-h 
it cannot, of course, contain luxuries 
IB 



146 Time and Utensils Required, 

Another thing, when I speak of a woman who is to 
buy the food of a family for 13 cents apiece daily, 
I have in mind the wife of a man who earns this sum 
himself, the wife having her time to attend to the 
housework and children. If a woman helps earn, as 
in a factory, doing most of her housework after she 
comes home at night, she must certainly have more 
money than in the first case in order to accomplish 
the same result, for she must buy her bread already 
baked and can only cook those dishes that take the 
least time. 

I shall take for granted that you have the kitchen 
utensils described on page 20; if not, buy them, be- 
cause, you cannot afford to do without them. Food 
is very expensive compared with pots and pans ; you 
must not spoil food for lack of the right things to 
cook it in. 

I only ask you in advance to try the recipes I shall 
give and to try to lay aside your prejudices against 
dishes to which you are not accustomed, as soups and 
cheese dishes for instance. You cannot afford to 
reject anything that will vary your diet, for many 
good tasting things you cannot buy. 

I know it is hard for a busy woman to give to her 
cooking a bit more time than will " just do," but if 
you make it a rule to determine the night beforehand 
just what you will cook on the following day, no mat- 
ter how simple the food may be, you will gain this 
result ; with the materials at your disposal you will 
put before your family much better food, and they 
will call you a good cook and think that no family 
need live better than they; and this impression will be 



Buying of Meat. 147 

made principally from your having the right variety. 
Let us understand, to begin with, that it is your 
business in life just now to conquer this food question 
as it affects your family. Just as the business man 
must watch the market and take advantage of a half 
cent a pound on an article, that he may successfully 
compete with his neighbor, so you must be on the 
alert to use every possible advantage. It is a struggle 
in which energy and calculation will tell for a great 
deal, and you will have solid enjoyment in every point 
that you gain. 

In buying meat your saving cannot be so much in 
quantity as in quality. Try to learn the different parts 
of an animal, and to distinguish between meat from a 
fat ox and that from a lean one, for, as we have explain- 
ed, the former has less water in it, and why should you 
pay good money for that which nature gives you free ? 
In winter, try to buy meat ahead so that you can 
make it tender by keeping it, and you will notice, too, 
that the larger the piece you buy the smaller is the 
per cent of bone you get with it. The per cent of 
bone in the whole animal, as in the case of an ox, is 
not more than 10 or 11 per cent, but the buyer of a 
small piece of meat often gets twice that proportion. 
As we have said again and again in these pages, the 
low-priced or tougher parts have as much nutriment 
for you as the rib roast which is beyond your purse. 
Choose often the fat middle rib and cook it long 
and slowly ; buy the neck and scrag of mutton, and 
make a stew with vegetables : buy half a calf's head, 
and see what a fine soup you can make of it. Have 
beef's liver now and then, and tripe, rather than put 



148 Grains and Vegetables. 

your money into sausage of doubtful quality. By all 
means buy fish when it is cheap, catfish, for instance, 
which are excellent fried. Keep suet always on hand 
and use instead of butter, as has been directed. 

No one need tell you how valuable salt pork and 
bacon are for you, — the only danger is that you will 
use too much of them. 

In buying eggs, you must be governed by the 
price; in winter use as few as possible, and even in 
the spring when they are cheapest, remember that 
they are not as cheap as the lowest priced cuts of 
meat from fat animals. But when they cost only 
15 cents a dozen you can well disregard any small 
comparison of nutritive values, in consideration of 
their high worth in furnishing variety; you can 
afford to use them now and then in the place of meat 
and in making the various egg dishes. 

Of the value of cheese as a regular dish to take the 
place of meat, you can read in another part of this 
essay. Buy it once a week at least, the skim variety, 
if you cannot afford the others, and grate or cook it 
according to the recipes given. 

Try to find a reliable milkman and buy skim milk 
at half the price of full, and use it for all cooking pur- 
poses, keeping full milk, and, if possible, a little of 
the cream, for coffee. 

Now let us take the vegetable part of your diet. 
You must keep on hand every kind of 
flour and grain that is not too expen- 
sive ; be thankful that wheat flour is so good and so 
cheap, it will be your best friend. If you are not 
already skillful in using it in bread and other doughs, 



Flavorings. 149 

you will waste your materials and make mistakes at 
first, but there is nothing for you but to become mis- 
tress of this department of cookery. Use bread freely 
in all the bread dishes, learn how to make every one. 
You will use buckwheat for cakes, rice for puddings, 
barley in soups, oatmeal and cornmeal for mushes, and 
you must learn to use them all in as many ways as possi- 
ble. The grains are cheaper foods for us than vegeta- 
bles, although dried peas, beans and lentils follow hard 
upon them. Even the potato, which may be called 
our favorite vegetable, is more expensive than wheat 
flour, if we are talking only of food values. 

Except in the height of their season, have noth- 
ing to do with green vegetables, at least not under 
the impression that they are cheap; if you buy them, 
know that you are paying for flavors and variety, 
rather than for food. But even in the early spring, 
buy plenty of such vegetables as onions, carrots, pars- 
ley and other green herbs for your soups and stews. 
When you go for a walk in the country, be sure to 
bring home mint and sorrel- in your pocket ; the for- 
mer will make you a nice meat sauce, the latter a 
delightful flavor in soup. It will be perfectly easy 
for you to grow in a window box that delicious herb, 
parsley, and have it always fresh. 

For a low purse, there is no help so great as a 
knowledge of flavorings. When we remember that 
we can live on bread, beans, peas and a little cheap 
meat and fat the year round if we can only make it 
"go down," we shall realize the importance of such 
additions as rouse the appetite; there is room here for 
all your skill and all your invention. Always make a 



150 Bills of Fare. 

cheap but nutritious dish inviting in appearance; es- 
pecially does this influence the appetites of children 
who are delighted with a very plain cake if only a few 
raisins or some sugar appear on the top. 

The Bills of Fare on pages 146 to 158, where 78 cents 
covers the cost of food for a family of 6 per day, and 
where the amount of food is carefully weighed and esti- 
mated, is meant only to suggest to you how in a few 
cases your food problem can be solved. You can, no 
doubt, spend the money in ways that will better suit 
the tastes of your family, but I beg you to exam- 
ine anew your favorite dishes to see if they are as 
nutritious as they should be for their price. Remem- 
ber that the Proteid column is the one that you must 
look to most carefully because it is furnished at the 
most expense, and it is very important that it should 
not fall below the figures I have given. If, for in- 
stance, you should economize in meat in order to buy 
cake and pastry, this column would suffer at the ex- 
pense of the other two and your family would be 
under nourished. 



Bills of Fare, Class I. 151 



BILLS OF FARE, CLASS I. 



For family of six, average price 78 cents per day, or 13 cents 
per person. 

Saturday, May. 
Breakfast. Dinner. 

Flour Pancakes, Bread Soup (p. 20). 

(p. 103) with Sugar Syrup. Beef neck Stew 

Coffee. Noodles (p. 90). 

Swelled Rice Pudding (p. 107). 

Supper. 

Browned Flour Soup, with Fried Bread (p. 121). 
Toast and Cheese (page 62, No. 1). 

Prntpirte Vat* Carbo- Cost 

totems. .bats, hydrates. in 

oz. oz. oz. Cents. 

J^lb. Rice 64 .08 6.12 4 

lib. Sugar .... 15.43 7 

H lb.Fat Cheese 3.00 3.48 .24 11^ 

2 qts. Skim Milk 2.12 .48 3.30 8 

21b. Flour 3.84 .48 22.88 6 

]4 qt. Whole Milk 58 .62 .83 3% 

2Eggs 34 .32 .... 3 

2^1bs. Beef neck.. 8.40 2.20 .... 20 

961b. Suet.... 5.88 .... 3 

fc lb. Coffee.. — - — - 3f 

m lbs. Bread 3.36 .28 29.06 8& 

Total 22.28 13.82 77.85 77A 

Required 19.19 12.42 78.03 78 



152 



Bills of Fare, Class 1. 



Sunday, May. 

Dinner. 

Milk Toast. Stuffed Beef's Heart (p. 48). 

Coffee. Potatoes stewed 

with Milk. 
Dried Apple Pie (p. 108). 
Bread and Cheese. 
Corn Coffee (p. 135). 

Supper. 

Noodle Soup (from Saturday, p. 91). 

Broiled Herring. 

Bread. 

Tea. 

Proteids. Fats. Og^ °3? 

oz. oz. oz. Cents. 
Heart of Fat Ox > 

weighing 2 lbs. } - 5 ' 76 »■» -- 10 

4 lbs. Bread 3.84 .32 33.22 9^ 

%lb. Sugar .... 11.88 5 

lqt. Skim Milk 1.06 .24 1.65 4 

% lb. Dried Apples 10 .... 4.50 6 

l^lb.Flour 2.88 .36 17.16 4^ 

12 Smoked Herring (1 pound). 3.36 1.36 .... 10 

J41b. Suet 9.23 .... 2 

2 lbs. Potatoes 64 .... 6.62 2*4 

J41b. Butter 3.33 .... G\i 

M lb. Skim Cheese. 2.40 LOT 40 4 

Tea .... .... 2 

^lb. Coffee .... .... 3f 

1 qt. Whole Milk 1.16 1.23 1.65 7 

Total 21.20 14.39 77.08 *76~ 

Required 19.19 12.42 78.03 78 



Bills of Fare, Class I. 



153 



Monday, May. 



Breakfast. 

Oatmeal Mush, with 

Milk and Sugar. 

Bread. 

Coffee. 



Dinner. 

Pea Soup (p. 117). 

Mutton Stew (p. 52). 

Boiled Potatoes. 

Bread. 



Supper. 



Bread Pancakes (p. 93). 

Fried Bacon. 

Tea. 



Proteids. 
oz. 

2 Eggs 34 

%lb. Oatmeal 1.74 

%\b. Coffee.... 

yiVo. Sugar 

iy 2 qts. Skim Milk 1.59 

%lb. Bacon 36 

4 lbs. Potatoes 1.28 

41bs. Bread 3.84 

lqt. Whole Milk 1.16 

3 lbs. Shoulder of Mutton 8.16 

1 lb. Peas, Dried 3.68 

J^lb. Flour 96 

Total, 23.11 

Required 19.19 



Fats, 
oz. 
.32 

.72 



.36 



1.24 

2.88 
.32 
.12 

15.88 
12.42 



Carbo- 
hydrates. 
oz. 



7.80 



7.92 
1.48 

13.24 

33.20 

1.66 

8.32 
5.72 

80.34 

78.03 



Cost 

in 
Cents. 
3 

3M 
3f 
3^ 
6 
9 
5 

9i 
7 

21 
5 

77.3 

78 



154 



Bills of Fare, Class I. 



Tuesday, May. 
Breakfast. Dinner. 

Oatmeal Mush and Milk. Fried Catfish 

Buttered Toast. with Mint Sauce (p. 73). 

Coffee. Fried Potatoes. 

Bread. 

Supper. 

Fried Farina Pudding (p. 107). 

Broiled Salt Pork. 

Bread. 

Tea. 

Prntpids "Fifq Carbo- Cost 

Proteicis. *ats. hydrates. in 

oz. oz. oz. Cents. 

lib. Oatmeal 2.32 '96 10.40 5 

1 qt. Whole Milk 1.16 1.23 1.65 7 

lqt. Skim Milk 1.06 .24 1.65 4 

Wi lbs. Catfish 7.00 .20 .... 17^ 

lfc&lbs. Farina 2.50 ... 18.22 7^ 

2egg-s 34 .32 .... 3 

4^1bs. Bread 4.32 .36 37.36 10^ 

Coffee .... .... 3f 

2 lbs. Potatoes 64 .... 6.62 2^ 

%Vo. Salt Pork 30 8.00 .... n\b 

J^lb. Butter. 1.67 .... 3J^ 

Y± lb. Sugar .... 3.96 1% 

Tea .... .... 2 

Total 19.64 12.98 79.86 74f 

Required 19.19 12.42 78.03 78 



Bills of Fare, Class I. 



155 



Saturday, September. 

Breakfast. Dinner. 

Soda Biscuit. Pea Soup (p. 117) 

Baked Potatoes with Irish Stew. 

Drawn Butter Sauce. Bread. 
Cocoa. 

Supper. 

Corn Mush and Molasses. 

Bread and Grated Cheese. 

Tea. 

Proteids. Fats. ,$£&,. 

oz. oz. oz. 

1 lb. Dried Peas. 3.68 .32 8.32 

2 lbs. Scrag: of Mutton 5.44 1.92 

3 lbs. Potatoes 96 .... 9.94 

3 lbs. Bread 2.88 .24 24.90 

2 lbs. Cornmeal 3.14 .90 19.50 

i41b. Sugar .... 3.96 

\i lb. Fat Cheese.. 1.00 1.56 .08 

lqt. Whole Milk. 1.16 1.23 1.65 

^lb. Buttei .-.- 3.33 

l\i lbs.. Flour 2.88 .36 17.16 

Mlb. Suet 3.92 

J4 lb. Molasses -— 2.48 

Cocoa Shells — 

Tea 

Total. 21.14 13.78 87.99 

Required 19.19 12.42 78.03 



Cost 

in 
Cents. 

5 
16 

m 

6li5 
6 

m 

m 

7 

637 

m 

2 

2^ 



71fc 

78 



156 Bills of Fare, Class I. 



Sunday, September. 
Breakfast. Dinner. 

Oatmeal and Milk. Broiled Beef's Liver. 

Bread and Butter. Boiled Potatoes and Carrots 

Cocoa. with Fried Onions (p. 116). 

Bread and Cheese. 

Supper. 

Lentil Soup with Fried Bread (p. 118). 

Smoked Herring. 

Bread. Barley Porridge (p. 122). 

Proteid, Fat, ,$£- Cost 

oz. oz. oz. Cents. 

1\£ lbs. Beef 's Liver 4.80 .90 .... 15 

3 lbs. Potatoes 90 .... 9.94 3^ 

lib. Carrots .... 1.44 1*4 

l}i lbs. Oatmeal 3.48 1.44 15.00 7H 

M lb. Lentils 2.04 .10 4.32 5 

1^ qt. Whole Milk 1.74 1.85 2.48 lOJ^ 

^lb.Sug-ar .... 7.92 3^ 

M lb. Pearl Barley 44 .00 2.80 2 

M lb. Suet 3.92 .... 2 

4 lbs. Bread.... 3.84 .32 33.20 9^ 

Smoked Herring- ( 8 oz. ) 1.08 .08 .... 5 

Mlb. Butter 3.33 .... &A 

M lb. Fat Cheese 1.00 1.10 .... 3% 

Cocoa Shells .... .... 2 

Total 19.98 13.88 77.70 70 T n 

Required 19.19 12.42 78.03 78 



Bills of Fare, Class I. 



157 



Monday, September. 



Breakfast. 

Buckwheat Cakes. 

Fried Bacon. 

Coffee. 



Dinner. 

Giblet Soup (p. 58). 

Baked Potatoes with 

Drawn Butter Sauce. 

Bread. 



Supper. 

Codfish Balls (p. 57). 

Cheese. 

Bread. Tea. 



Proteids. 
oz. 

2 lbs. Buckwheat Flour 3.04 

Giblets 2.20 

3 lbs. Potatoes. .96 • 

%lb. Bacon 36 

4J^lbs. Bread... 4.32 

^lb. Sugar .... 

% lb. Fat Cheese 3. 

1 lb. Salt Codfish 4.80 

Tea... 

1 qt. Whole Milk 1.16 

% lb. Coffee.. 

Total 19.84 

Required 19.19 



Fats, 
oz. 
.64 
.12 



9.60 



.16 



1.23 



15.59 
12.42 



Carbo- 
hydrates, 
oz. 
23.30 

9.94 



7.92 
.24 



1.65 



50.41 

rs.03 



Cost 

in 

Cents. 

10 



IOtw 

8 
2 

7 

76^ 



1,58 



Bills of Fare, Class L 



Tuesday, September. 



Breakfast. 

Fried Bacon. 

Boiled Potatoes. 

Bread. Coffee. 



Dinner. 

Boiled Corned Beef 

with Horseradish Sauce. 

Stewed Cabbage. 

Bread. 

Barley Porridge (p. 122). 



1)£ lbs. Corn Beef . 


Supper. 

Pea Soup. 
Yeast Biscuit and I 
Stewed Fruit. 

Proteids. 
oz. 
6.96 


5 utter. 

Fats. 

oz. 

1.54 

.48 

.33 

.38 

6.40 

3.33 

1.96 

.13 

.34 

.63 

15.39 
13.43 


Carbo- 
hydrates, 
oz. 

3. 

33.88 

6.63 

8.33 
39.06 

5.73 

1.65 

.83 

7.93 

85. 

78.03 


Cost 
in 

Cents. 

15 


3 lbs. Cabbage 

3 lbs. Flour 

3 lbs. Potatoes 

1 lb. Dried Peas ... 


80 

3.84 

.64 

3.68 


6 
6 

5 


3^ lbs. Bread 


3.36 


82V 
6 

1 

4 


Mi lb. Bacon 

% lb. Butter 


.34 


% lb. Suet 

H lb. Pearl Barley. 


88 


1 qt. Skim Milk 


.. . 1.06 


4 


lpt. Whole Milk... 


.58 


94 

'3 4 

3 


% lb. Coffee 




J^lb. Sugar 

Fruit. 

Total 

Kequired 


33.04 

19.19 



Bills of Fare, Class I. 



159 



Saturday, January. 



Breakfast. 

Fried Bacon. 

Corn Bread (p. 103). 

Coffee. 



Dinner. 

Browned Flour Soup (p. 121). 
Stewed Mutton. 
Mashed Potatoes. 
Bread. 



Supper. 

Baked Beans. Bread. 

Apple Dumplings (p. 108), 

with Pudding Sauce (p. 112). 

Tea. 



Proteids. 
oz. 
3 lbs. Neck of Mutton 8.16 

3 lbs. Potatoes.... 98 

4 lbs. Bread 3.84 

lib. Flour 1.92 

2 lbs. Corn Meal 3.14 

lib. Beans 3.68 

%Va. Sugar 

% lb. Bacon 24 

% lb. Suet 

% lb. Coffee .... 

1 qt. Whole Milk 1.16 

Apples 

Tea 

Total 23.10 

Required 19.19 



Fats, 
oz. 


Carbo- 
hydrates, 
oz. 


Cost 

in 

Cents. 


2.88 





24 


.32 


9.94 
33.20 


m 

^ 


.24 


11.44 


3 


1.20 


22.40 


6 


.32 


8.56 


5 


6.44 


7.92 


3^ 
6 


1.96 
1.23 


1.65 


1 

35 

7 
2 
2 






14.59 


95.11 


7^1 

78 


12.42 


78,03 



160 



Bills of Fare, Class L 



Sunday, January. 



Breakfast. 

Fried Codfish. 

Bread and Butter. 

Coffee. 



ir. 

Potato and Onion Salad. 

Broiled Salt Pork. Bread. 

Corn Mush with Pudding Sauce (p. 

Proteids. Fats, 

oz. oz. 

2 lbs. Corn Meal 3.14 1.20 

1 qt. Skim Milk 1.06 .24 

lpt. Whole Milk... 58 .62 

J^lb.Sugar 

3 lbs. Bread 2.88 .24 

1 lb. Salt Codfish 4.80 

\i lb. Butter .... 6.66 

M lb. Skim Cheese 1.20 .53 

4 lbs. Potatoes 1.28 

\i lb. Salt Pork 12 3.20 

M lb. Suet ....-.._.. 3.92 

% lb. Flour 1.44 .18 

1 Sheep's Head, assumed to 

contain ljg lbs. meat 4.08 1.44 

Onions 

Cocoa Shells... 

Coffee.. 

Total -I 20.58 18.23 

Required 19.19 12.42 



Dinner. 

Sheep's Head Stew 

with Soda Biscuit Dumplings 

Baked Potatoes. 

Bread and Grated Cheese. 

Cocoa. 



112). 



Carbo- 


Cost 


hydrates. 


in 


oz. 


Cents. 


22.40 


6 


1.65 


4 


.83 


m 


7.92 


m 


24.90 


6xff 





8 





12fc 


.20 


2 


13.25 


5 





3 



8.58 



79.73 
78.03 



2M 



Bills of Fare, Class J. 



161 



Monday, January. 
Breakfast. 

Fried Mush and Molasses. 
Bread. 
Coffee. 



Dinner. 

Soup (from Boiled Beef) 

with Macaroni. 

Boiled Beef Flank 

with Mustard Sauce, 

Bean Puree. 

Bread. 



Boiled Potatoes with 

Butter Gravy. 

Dried Apple Roly Poly Pudding (p. 108). 

Bread. Tea. 



Proteids 
oz. 

2 lb. Beef Flank 6.72 

lib. Beans 3.68 

]4 lb. Dried Apples, 10 

2 lbs. Potatoes 64 

2 lbs. Corn Meal 3.14 

l^lbs. Flour .. 2.88 

34 lb. Butter 

14 lb. Suet 

J4 lb. Molasses 

Yi lb. Sugar 

31bs. bread 2.88 

1 qt. Whole Milk 1.16 

% lb. Coffee. 

Tea.. 

\<i lb. Macaroni .36 

Total 21.56 

Required 19.19 

1-4 



Fats 
oz. 


Carbo- 
hydrates 
oz. 


Cost 

in 
Cents 


1.76 





16 


.32 


8.56 


5 





4.50 


6 





6.62 


2% 


1.20 


22.40 


6 


.36 


17.16 


4^ 


3.33 





6& 


3.92 




2 





2.48 


2% 




7.92 


3^ 


.24 
1.23 


24.90 
1.65 


6 T 9 ff 

7 



.02 

12.38 
12.42 



3.06 

99.25 

78.03 



m 

78 



162 



Bills of Fare, Class I. 



Tuesday, January. 

Breakfast. Dinner. 

Fried Potatoes. Browned Farina Soup with 

Bread. Toast (p. 121). 

Coffee. Stewed Mutton, with 

Yeast Dumplings. 

Supper. 

Bean Soup. 

Milk Toast. 

Tea. 

Protpids V»U Carbo- Cost 

jroteias *ats hydrates in 

oz - oz - oz. Cents 

2^ lbs. Mutton 6.80 2.40 .... 20 

1 qt. Skim Milk 1.06 .24 1.65 4 

V& lbs. Beans 5.52 .48 12.84 7^ 

\i lb. Butter 3.33 .... 6J4 

^ lb. Suet .... 7.84 .... 4 

M lb. Sugar .... .... 7.92 3^ 

3 lbs. Potatoes .96 .... 9.94 V/± 

lHlbs. Flour. 2.88 .36 17.16 4^ 

1 qt. Whole Milk 1.16 1.23 1.65 7 

3 lbs. Bread 2.88 .24 24.90 6 T 9 ff 

Mlb. Farina 42 .... 3.03 1% 

Mlb Coffee — - 3| 

Tea ---- 

Total ---- 21.68 16.12 79.09 75 

Required." 19.19 12.42 78.03 78 



Bills of Fare, Class II 163 



BILLS OF FARE, CLASS II. 



For family of six. Average price $1.26 per day, or 18 cts. 
per person. 

The bills of fare in this class will not be given in detail. 
Taking those given for Class I as a basis, it is expected that 
certain luxuries will be added and a better quality of food 
used; the quantities of Proteid, Fat and Carbohydrate will 
then not be lowered, which is the point of greatest importance. 



164 Bills of Fare, Class III. 

BILLS OF FAKE, CLASS III. 



For family of six. Average price, $1.38 per day, or 33 
cents per person. 

Saturday, May. 

Breakfast. Dinner. 

Oranges. Beef Soup with 

Egg Omelet on Egg Sponge (p. 128). 

Toast. Macaroni with Cheese (p. 90). 

Boiled Rice with Dandelion Greens. 

Milk and Sugar. Bread. 
Coffee. 



T. 



Sour Cream Soup (p. 124). 
Meat Croquettes (of soup meat) (p. 49). 
Graham Bread and Butter. 
Tea. Cake. 



Proteids 
oz. 

lib. Rice 1.28 

^6 lb. Sugar 

6 Oranges 

% lb. Macaroni 1.08 

41bs. Bread 3.84 

2 lbs. Flour 3.84 

^lb. Coffee 

2 qts. Whole Milk 2.32 

10 Eggs 1.70 

2^1bs. Meat 8.40 

% lb. Butter 

J61b. FatCheese 2.00 

Sour Cream and flavors for 

soup 

Tea 

Total 24.46 

Required 19.19 



Fats 


Carbo- 


Cost 


hydrates 


in 




oz. 


Cents 


.16 


12.24 


8 





7.92 


m 








10 





9.18 


vm 


.32 


33.22 


9k 


.48 


22.88 


6 







3| 


2.46 


3.30 


14 


1.60 


.... 


15 


2.20 


.... 


20 


9.99 





im 


2.32 


.16 


6 


19^53 


88.90 


2 
136^ 


12.42 


78.03 


138 



Bills of Fare, Class III. 



165 



Sunday, May. 



Breakfast. 

Oatmeal Mush with sugar 
and milk. 
Bread and Butter. 
Coffee. 



Dinner. 

Ham and Eggs. 

Salad of Cold Beans and 

Lettuce 

Rhubarb Pie. 

Cocoa. 

Bread. 



Supper. 

Rice Pancakes (p. 93), with 

Sugar Syrup. 

Stewed Potatoes. 

Tea. 



Proteids 
oz. 

% lb. Oatmeal 1.74 

M lb. Coffee 

1 lb. Sugar 

2 qts. Whole Milk 2.32 

% lb. Butter 

lib. Ham 3.84 

VSlb.Suet 

12 Eggs 2.04 

Cocoa 

31bs. Potatoes 96 

41bs. Bread 3.84 

M lb.Lettuce 10 

1 lb. Beans 3.68 

Rhubarb 

M lb. Rice 64 

lj^lbs. Flour . 2.88 

Tea. . 

Salad Dressing 

Total 22.04 

Required 19.19 



Fats 
oz. 


Carbo- 


Cost 


hydrates 


in 


oz. 


Cents. 


0.72 


7.80 


3£ 








3| 





15.84 


7 


2.46 


3.30 


14 


9.99 





18% 


5.84 





25 


1.96 





1 


1.92 





18 








4 





9.94 


m 


.32 


33.20 


^ 





.20 


5 


.32 


8.55 


5 






4 


.08 


6.12 


4 


.36 


17.16 


4H 


.... 


.... 


2 
5 


23.97 


102.11 


137 


12.42 


78.03 


138 



166 



Bills of Fare, Class III. 



Monday, May. 
Breakfast. Dinner. 

Oranges. Roast Mutton and Bread 

Milk Toast. Dressing (p. 106). 

Coffee. Mashed Potatoes. 

Corn Mush with Sugar 

and Milk. 
Soda Cream (p. 136). 

Supper. 

Parsnip Soup (p. 119), with Yeast Dumplings (p. 128). 

Bread and butter. 

Sponge Cake. Tea. 

Protpids Fats Carbo- Cost 

Proteids *ats hydrates in 

oz - oz - oz. Cents 

3^ lbs. Bread 3.36 .28 29.06 8 T V 

3 lbs. Mutton 8.16 2.88 .... 48 

2 qts. Whole Milk 2.32 2.46 3.30 14 

lj^lbs. Sugar .... 23.76 10J^ 

lib. Flour 1.92 .24 11.44 3 

\i lb. Butter 6.66 .... 12^ 

%Vo. Coffee -... .... 3§ 

6 Oranges — 10 

21b. Cornmeal 3.14 1.20 22.40 6 

4Eggs 68 .64 .... 6 

3 lbs. Potatoes 96 .... 9.94 W\ 

Tea — - .... 2 

SodaCreaui — 3 

Parsnips — 6 

Total 20.54 14.36 99.90 136J4 

Required 19.19 12.42 78.03 138 



Bills of Fare, Class III. 



167 



Breakfast. 

Buttered Toast. 

Coffee. 

Canned Fruit. 



Tuesday, May. 

Dinner. 

Sorrel Soup (p. 120.) 

Fried Catfish. 

Noodles (p. 90.) 

Bread. 

Swelled Rice Pudding (p. 

Supper. 

Fried Mush. 
Stewed Rhubarb. 
Fresh Rusks and Butter (p. 98). 
Tea. 



107). 



Canned Fruit 


Proteids. 
oz. 


Fats, 
oz. 

1.20 
.24 

1.86 
.48 

.48 
13.33 

.08 

3.92 

.24 

.64 

22.47 
12.42 


Carbo- 
hydrates, 
oz. 

22.40 
24.90 

2.50 

3.30 

22.88 
7.92 
6.12 

90.02 
78.03 


Cost 

• in 

Cents. 

15 

6 

8 

8 

6 
25 

3^ 

5 

4 

2 
18 

3f 

6 

2 

12*1 3 

138 


2 lbs. Corn Meal.... 


3.14 


3 lbs. Bread 


2 88 


1^ qts. Whole Milk 


1.74 


2 qts. Skim Milk 


2.12 


Rhubarb 

2 lbs. Flour 


3 84 


lib. Butter 

J^ib. Sugar 




Sorrel &c. for Soup 

M lb. Rice 


64 


Mlb. Suet 

3 lbs. Fresh Fish... 


8 00 


% lb. Coffee 




4 Eggs 


68 


Tea 




Total. 


23 04 


Required.. 


19.19 



168 



Bills of Fare, Class III, 



Saturday, September. 



Breakfast. 

Hominy Mush with 

Sugar Syrup 

Stewed Pears. 

Toasted Crackers. 

Coffee. 



Dinner. 

Plum Soup (p. 125). 

Broiled Beef Steak. 

Boiled Green Corn. 

Turnips and Potatoes (p. 

Bread. 

Apple Pie (p. 109). 

Shipper. 



116). 



Irish Stew (p. 52). 

Biscuit and Butter. 

Yeast Doughnuts (p. 99). 

Tea. 

Proteidg. Fats, 

oz. oz. 

llb.Hominy 1.58 .60 

Pears and Plums 

2 lbs. Bread.... 1.93 .16 

^lb. Crackers 50 

2 lbs. Beef Steak 6.72 1.76 

1 doz. Green Corn 

2 lbs. Potatoes , 64 

Apples 

llb.Turnips 15 

31bs. Flour 5.76 .64 

^lb. Suet. 1.96 

lib. Mutton 2.72 .96 

Mlb. Butter 9.99 

2 Eggs 34 .32 

Tea 

1 lb. Sugar 

1 qt. Whole Milk 1.16 1.23 

^lb. Coffee 

Total 20.83 17.62 

Required.... 19.19 12.42 



Carbo- 


Cost 


hydrates. 


in 


oz. 


Cents. 


11.20 


5 





5 


16.60 


4 


4.15 


5 





36 





15 


6.62 


2^ 





4 


1.12 


oA 


34.32 


9 





1 





8 





im 





4 





2 


15.84 


7 


1.65 


7 


.... 


3| 


91.50 


138 1 


78.03 


138 



Bills of Fare, Class III. 169 



Sunday, September. 

Breakfast. Dinner. 

Sour Milk Pancakes with Green Corn Soup (p. 120). 

Sugar Syrup (p. 103). Fricaseed Chicken (p. 57). 

Sausage. Bread. Potatoes and Carrots (p. 116). 

Cucumbers. with Fried Onions. 

Coffee. Bread. 

Supper. 

Fried Farina Pudding (p. 108. 
Water Toast. 
Radishes. 
Tea. 

Proteids. 
oz. 

Radishes 

lib. Sausage 2.32 

% lb. Sugar 

lj^qts. Whole Milk... 1.74 

3 lbs. Bread 2.88 

}£ doz. Green Corn 

An Old Chicken ( 3 lbs. ) 9.00 

2 lbs. Potatoes 60 

\i lb. Carrots 

Cucumbers 

1^ lb. Flour 2.88 

^lb. Farina 84 

\i lb. Butter 

lqt. Sour Milk 1.06 

Coffee 

Tea 

2 Eggs 34 



Total 21.66 

Required 19.19 

15 



Fats. 


Carbo- 
hydrates. 


Cost 
in 


oz. 


oz. 


Cents. 
3 
12 


6.00 




.... 


9.90 


m 


1.85 


2.48 


ioh 


.24 


24.90 


6 T V 


.... 





7H 


1.90 





50 





6.60 


m 


.... 


.72 


1 
2 


.36 


17.16 


.... 


6.00 


2H 


3.33 




<V4 


.24 


1.65 


4 


.... 


.... 


3f 

2 

4 


.32 





14.24 


69.41 


127f 


12.42 


78.03 


138 



170 



Bills of Fare, Glass III. 



Monday, September . 



Dinner. 



Codfish Balls. 






Roast Beef. 


Bread and Butter. 






Baked Potatoes. 


Coffee. 






Stewed Tomatoes. 


Stewed Apples. 






Lemonade. 








Bread 






Supper. 








Berry Roly Poly (p. 108). 








Cheese. 










Bread and Butter. 








Tea. 










Proteids. 


Fats. 


Carbo- 
hydrates. 


Cost 
in 




oz. 


oz. 


oz. 


Cents. 


% lb. Codfish 


3.60 






6 


4 lbs. Potatoes 


1.28 




13.24 


5 


3 lbs. Bread... 


2.88 


.24 


24.90 


6tV 


% lb. Butter 




9.99 





im 


2 qts. Whole Milk 


2.32 


2.46 


3.30 


14 


1 lb. Sugar 






15.84 


7 


23^ lbs. Beef 


8.40 


2.20 




40 


3 lbs. Tomatoes 







4.00 


5 


Lemons 










7 


1% lb. Flour 


.... 3.88 


.36 


17.16 


4*4 


^ lb. Fat Cheese 


2.00 


2.32 


.18 


7}£ 


%\\). Coffee 








3| 


Tea.. 








2 


Fruit 











10 


Total 


24.36 


17.57 


78.62 


137 


Required 


19.19 


12.42 


78.03 


138 



Bills of Fare, Class III. 171 



Tuesday, September. 

Breakfast. Dinner. 

Broiled Mackerel. Sour Cream Soup (p. 124). 

Stewed Potatoes. Boast Mutton 

Bread and Butter. with Bread Stuffing. 

Coffee. Boiled Beets. 

Bread Pudding (p. Ill, No. 2). 

Supper. 

Apple Fritters (p. 114), 

with Sugar Syrup. 

Bread and Butter. 

Tea. 



Proteids. Fats. 



Carbo- Cost 
hydrates. in 

oz. oz. oz. Cents. 

m lbs. Flour 2.88 .36 17.16 Qi 

4Eg-gs 68 .64 .... 8y 

2 qts. Whole Milk 2.32 2.46 3.30 14 

llb.Sugar .... 15.84 7 

J^lb.Suet. 1.96 .... 1 

2J^lbs. Mutton 6.80 2.40 .... 40 

21bs. Beets — - 3.00 5 

1 36 lbs. Salt Mackerel 4.56 3.00 .... 18% 

1}4 lbs. Potatoes 48 .... 4.96 l T 9 <y 

41bs. Bread 3.84 .32 33.20 9£ 

^lb. Butter 6.66 .... 12^ 

Sour Cream and Apples -. — 8 

^lb.Coffee — - ---. 3f 

Tea — . — - 2 

Total. 2L56 17!80 79.46 135^ 

Required „„„,„,. 19,19 12.42 78.03 138 



172 



Bills of Fare, Class III. 



Breakfast. 

Buckwheat Cakes and 

Sugar Syrup. 

Bread and Butter. 

Coffee. 



Saturday, January. 

Dinner. 

Roast Fresh Pork, with 

Apple Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

Indian Pudding (p. 110). 

Bread. 

Supper. 



Herring and Potato Salad. 

Lentils, with Prunes (p. 116). 

Bread and Butter. 

Tea. 



Proteids. 
oz. 

2 lbs. Buckwheat Flour 3.04 

1% lbs. Corn Meai 2.28 

lib. Butter - .... 

% lb. Sugar... 

lqt. Whole Milk..- 1.16 

Apples 

2H lbs. Fresh Pork 8.00 

3 lbs. Potatoes 96 

2 Eggs .34 

lqt. Skim Milk 1.16 

3 lbs. Bread 2.88 

^lb.Lentils 2.04 

J^ lb. Prunes 15 

% lb. Coffee 

Tea ---- 

6 Herrings 1.68 

Salad Dressing — 

Total 23.69 

Required 19.19 



Fats. 


Carbo- 


Cost 


hydrates. 


in 


oz. 


oz. 


Cents. 


.64 


23.20 


10 


.91 


16.80 


4^ 


13.33 





25 





11.88 


W\ 


1.23 


1.65 


7 

4 

37^ 


2.80 


'.'". 


.... 


9.94 


3£ 


.32 




4i 


.24 


1.65 


4 


.24 


24.90 


•A 


.16 


4.32 


5 




3.80 


5 


.... 


.... 


3| 
2 
5 
5 


.68 


.... 








20.55 


98.14 


137^ 


12.42 


78.03 


138 



Bills of Fare, Class III. 173 



Sunday, January. 
Breakfast. Dinner. 

Milk Toast. Cold Roast Pork, 

Fried Potatoes. Noodles (p. 90). 

Coffee. Stewed Cabbage. 

Bread. 
Swelled Rice Pudding (p. 107). 
Corn Coffee (p. 135). 

Supper. 

Potato Soup (p. 118). Grated Cheese. 

Bread and butter. 

Raised Cake (p. 98). Canned Fruit. 

Tea. 

Proteids 
oz. 

H lb. Fat Cheese 1.08 

4 lbs. Potatoes 1.28 

2 lbs. Flour 3.84 

4 Eggs 68 

2 qts. Whole Milk 2.32 

1 qt. Skim Milk 1.0G 

H lb. Butter 

1 lb. Sugar 

2 lbs. Fresh Pork . 6.40 

21bs. Cabbage .80 

J^lb. Rice 64 

31bs. Bread 2.88 

Corn (dry grain) 

Canned Fruit -.- 

Jglb. Coffee 

Tea 

Total 20.98 

Required 19.19 



Fats 
oz. 


Carbo- 


Cost 


hydrates. 


in 


oz. 


Cents 


.95 


.06 


3% 





13.24 


5 


.48 


22.88 


6 


.64 





sy 3 


2.46 


3.30 


14 


.24 


1.65 


4 


9.99 





ISM 





15.42 


7 


2.24 


.... 


30 





1.60 


8 


.08 


6.12 


4 


.24 


24.90 


frfr 








2 







10 








3f 


.... 


.... 


2 


17.32 


89.17 


133 tV 
138 


12.42 


78.03 



174 



Bills of Fare, Class III. 



Monday, January. 



Breakfast. 

Buckwheat Cakes. 

Sausage. 

Coffee. 

Apple Sauce. 



Dinner. 

Pea Soup (p. 118). 

Roast Beef. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Canned Tomatoes. 

Barley Gruel (p. 121). 



Supper. 



Potato Soup with Egg and Bread Balls (p. 128). 

Brown Bread and Butter. 

Canned Fruit. Tea. 



Proteids 
oz. 

2 lbs. Buckwheat Flour 3.04 

lib. Sausage 2.32 

21bs. Beef 6.72 

3 lbs. Potatoes .96 

2 lbs. Tomatoes (canned at 

home) 19 

31bs. Bread 2.88 

2 Eggs 34 

J^lb. Barley 88 

lqt. Whole Milk 1.16 

J^lb. Sugar 

1 lb. Dried Peas 3.68 

M lb. Butter 

Canned Fruit 

MVa. Coffee 

Tea „ 

Apples 

Total 22.17 

Required 19.19 



Fats 


Carbo- 


Cost 


hydrates. 


in 




oz. 


Cents 


.64 


23.20 


10 


6.00 





12 


1.76 





32 




9.94 


m 




3.50 


6 


.24 


24.90 


*ft 


.32 





4i 


.12 


5.72 


4 


1.23 


1.65 


7 





7.92 


m 


.32 


8.32 


5 


6.66 





12^ 






10 


.... 


.... 


3f 

2 
5 








17.29 


85.15 


1271 


12.42 


78.03 


138 



Bills of Fare, Class III. 



175 



Tuesday, January. 



Breakfast. 

Graham Biscuits. 
Fried Bacon. Apple Sauce. 
Coffee. 



Dinner. 

Boiled Mutton. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Winter Squash. 

Dried Apple Short Cakfc 

with Pudding Sauce. 

Corn Coffee. 



Supper. 

Mutton and Bean Broth. 

Bread and Butter. 

Cheese. Tea. 

Cookies. 



Proteids 
oz. 

}£ lb. Bacon 36 

\i lb. dried Apples 10 

lib. Beans 3.G8 

W lb. Fat Cheese 1.00 

1 lb. Sugar 

2 qts. Whole Milk 2.32 

2H lbs. Mutton 6.80 

3 lb. Potatoes .. .96 

2 lbs. Winter Squash 16 

Cookies 

21bs. Bread 1.92 

2J^lbs. Flour 4.80 

% lb. Butter 

J^lb. Coffee 

Tea 

Apples 

Total 22.10 

Required 19.19 



Fats 
oz. 



.32 
1.16 



2.46 
2.40 



.16 



3.33 



20.09 
12.42 



Carbo- 
hydrates 
oz. 

4.44 
8.56 

15.84 
3.30 

9.94 
3.20 



16.60 
27.94 



78.03 



Costs 

in 
Cent 



5 

7 
14 
30 

3% 
10 
15 

4f 

6M 
3| 



in, 

138 



TWELVE COLD DIE"E"EES. 



If a man is to eat a cold dinner for months or even 
for weeks, it is quite worth while to make that din- 
ner as good as it can be, and to pack it nicely for carry- 
ing Every one knows how it can take the edge off 
even a keen appetite to find his sandwich smeared 
with apple pie, or his cake soaked with vinegar from 
the pickles. That a box or basket of given dimen- 
sions should hold as much as possible, and keep the 
different kinds of food separate, it must be divided 
into compartments. 

Simplest — an oblong basket, — divide into two 
compartments by a piece of pasteboard cut so that 
it slips in rather tightly, then line the two compart- 
ments with nice wrapping paper put in fresh every 
day. It may be divided into four parts in the same 
way. A close fitting tin spice box is nice for holding 
cheese. A tiny " salve" box should contain salt and 
pepper mixed. Sew leather straps on the cover of the 
basket inside, for holding knife, fork and spoon. 

Put a strap around the basket that you may hang 
from it a little pail containing cold soups recom- 
mended for drinks in summer. 

Cold puddings should be wrapped in strong writ- 
ing paper, then in wrapping paper and pinned close. 

176 



Twelve Cold Dinners. 



177 



cold dinners for summer. 



1. Bread and butter. 

Salad of potatoes and cold 

baked fish. 

Cold boiled beef. 

Molasses Cookies. 

Apple Soup. 

2. Corn Bread. 

Ham Sandwiches. 

Baked sweet apples. 

Custard pie. 

Plum Soup 

3. Bread and butter. 

Cold veal. 

Hard boiled eggs. 

Pickled beets. 

Cherry Pie. 



4. Chopped beef sandwiches. 

Salad of Lima Beans. 

Ginger Snaps. 

Cottage Cheese. 

Irish Moss Lemonade. 



5. Graham bread. 

Cold roast mutton. 

Cucumbers and salt. 

Pumpkin pie. 

Soda cream. 

6. Bread and butter. 

Dried Beef. Crackers. 

Cheese. Sponge cake. 



Cold coffee. 



COLD DINGERS FOR WINTER. 
10 



7. Bread. 

Cold boiled pork. 

Cold baked beans with 

mustard and vinegar. 

Doughnuts. 

Apple pie. 

Cold coffee. 

8. Yeast biscuits and butter. 

Cold chicken. 

Pickles. 

Cold rice pudding. 

Apples. 

9. Cold soda biscuits. 

Veal and ham sandwiches. 

Saratoga potatoes. 

Mince pie. 



Biscuits and butter with 

honey. 

Cold corn beef and rye 

bread. 

Dried apple tarts. 

Cheese. 



11. Bread and butter. 

Smoked Herring. 

Pickled beans. 

Gingerbread. 

Apples. 

12. Corn bread and butter. 
Cold roast beef and white 

bread. 

Bread and apple pudding. 

Bread cake. 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Apple dump lings. 109 

pie 109 

water 136 

Apples, food value of 84 

Bacon, balls in soup 128 

broiled 54 

fried 54 

with cabbage.. 54 

Barley, analysis of 80 

to cook 86 

porridge 122 

with prunes 86 

insoup 127 

Bean flour 82 

soup 117 

Beans, cellulose in 82 

to cook 115 

digestibility of 77, 82 

proteidin 81 

with prunes 116 

Beef, analysis of, compared, 26, 27 

baked 41 

boiled 40 

broiled 42 

corned 47 

croquettes 49 

friedinfat 40 

hash 48 

heart 48 

liver 47 

pie 46 

pressed 49 

re-cooked..., 48 

stew 40 

tripe 48 

Biscuit, graham 102 

soda 102 

soda in puddings 108 

yeast 97 

179 



PAGE. 

Bills of Fare, explanation of 142 
Class I, introduction to.. 143 

ClassI 151 

Class TI ... 163 

Class III 164 

Bonny Clabber 64 

Bread, corn 97 

dressing 106 

additional facts about ... 96 

in foreign countries 16 

fritters _. 114 

graham 96 

making 94 

making, principles in- 
volved in 91 

omelet 60 

pancakes 93 

pudding 110 

re-baked 106 

rye.. 97 

steamed 99 

stale, steamed 106 

soup 121 

uses for 105 

Buckwheat, analysis of 80 

pancakes 100 

Buns, plain 98 

fruit 98 

Butter, artificial 70 

substitutes for 68 

to try out 71 

Buttermilk cheese (see Cot- 
tage cheese). 

to keep fresh 64 

pudding 108 

soup 123 

uses for 64 

Cake, raised 98 

Johnny 103 



180 



Index. 



PAGE. 

Cake, short 102 

short, strawberry 108 

Carbohydrates 6 

amountindiet 76 

containing foods 75 

digestibility of 77 

function of -. 9 

Cellulose 75 

inbeans 76 

its uses 82 

Charcoal, use of 21, 43 

Chocolate 134 

soup 123 

Cheese, cottage 64 

cooked with bread 61 

digestibility of 30 

fondarain 62 

food value of 29 

grated 61 

proteidin 5 

use abroad 30 

Chicken, f ricaseed 57 

soup 57 

Cider, bottled 136 

soup 124 

Coffee.. 133 

corn 135 

Corn (Indian), analysis of 80 

bread .97, 103 

flour 87 

gruel 135 

mush 87 

pancakes 87, 104 

pone. 88 

porridge 122 

pudding 107 

Croquettes, meat 49 

Dietary, army 66 

Bavarian 67 

standard ....3,10-13 

of poor family 12 

Dinners, Twelve Cold. 175 

Doughnuts 99 

Drinks at meals 133 

Economy, its true scope 13 

Egg dishes 59 



PAGE. 

Eggs, food value of. 29, 58 

hard boiled 50 

omelets 60 

proteidin... 5 

raw 50 

soft boiled , 50 

Egg sponge for soup 128 

Farina, pudding 108 

soup 121 

Fats in army dietary 66 

different, compared 69 

digestibility of 68 

function of 9 

importance of 67 

uses of in cooking 71 

Fish balls 57 

fresh 55 

food value of 28 

chowder 55 

salt 56 

soup 56 

Flavorings 9, 130 

Flour, fine wheat 89 

raised with egg 92 

raised with soda 100 

raised with yeast 93 

qualityof 94 

Fondamin 62 

Food Principles, definition of 4 

functions of 7 

proportion of in diet 10 

Fritters 113 

bread 114 

egg-raised 113 

soda-raised 113 

fruit 114 

Fruits, digestibility of 84 

dried 84 

fritters 114 

food value of... . 83 

soups 124 

puddings 108 

Gelatine, history of 22 

Graham biscuits 102 

bread 96 

gems 88 



Index. 



181 



PAGE. 

Graham, pancakes 104 

Grains, analysis of 80 

cookingof 85 

Grapes, sugar in. 84 

Gruels 135 

Ham, cakes 54 

croquettes 54 

boiled 53 

broiled 54 

fried 54 

sandwiches 53 

Hash, meat 48 

Heat saver 44 

Hominy, fried 87 

Mushes, fried. 87 

to make 86 

other uses for 87 

Introduction 1 

Kitchen, arrangement of 18 

utensils 19 

Lard 72 

Lentils, to cook 115 

food value of.. 81 

soup 118 

Lemonade, Irish moss 136 

Macaroni, to cook 89 

in soup 129 

with tomatoes 90 

Marrow ._ 71 

Meat balls in soup 129 

consumption of 11 

methods of cooking 32 

structure of 32 

tough, to make tender. . . 45 

Milk, analysis of 63 

canning 63 

sour, uses for 64 

Mintsauce 74 

Muffins 93 

Mutton, modes of cooking . . 51 

Noodles 90 

Noodle soup 91 

Oats, food value of 79 

analysis of 80 

Oatmeal gruel 135 

pancakes 86 



PAGE. 

Oatmeal, mush. 86 

Omelets (see Eggs). 

Oils, for frying 41 

Pancakes, soda 87, 103 

egg-raised 93 

yeast-raised .99, 100, 101 

Parsnip soup 119 

Pears, food value of 84 

Peas Split, to cook 115 

food value of. .... 118 

Pea soup 118 

Plumsoup 124 

Piecrust 92 

apple 109 

Pork and apples 55 

and beans 55 

ways of cooking 55 

food value of 27 

Potato, cooking of the 115 

crust 46 

food value of 82 

omelet 114 

soup 118 

Porridges -- 122 

Proteids 5 

function of 7 

containing foods 22 

vegetable 78 

Pudding, Berry Betty 110 

bread 110 

bread and butter Ill 

Brown Betty 110 

buttermilk 108 

custard 110 

farina 108 

Indian .107, 110 

individual HI 

minute 107 

rice -- HO 

sago HO 

sauce H2 

suet 112 

tapioca HO 

Rice, analysis of 80 

food value of — 79 

to cook 85 



182 



Index, 



PAGE. 

Rice, gruel 135 

omelet 60 

pancakes 93 

pudding ..107, 110 

Rolls...-.*- 97 

Rusks 98 

Rye flour, analysis of 80 

bread 97 

Salts.... 6 

Sauces, drawn butter 73 

meat 74 

Schwaben Spetzel 128 

Sick, cookery for the 136 

Starch, in dietary 78 

digestibility of 77 

Sodla Cream 136 

Sorrel soup 120 

Soup, additions to 126 

analysis of 24 

fish 121 

fruit 124 

meat, to make.. 33 

milk 39,122 

use of in Europe. 16 

vegetable 117 

31 



PAGE. 

Sugar, consum ption of 15 

food value of 80 

Suet pudding 112 

totryout 40 

uses of .71, 72 

Tea 134 

Thermometer, use of 43 

Tomato omelet 61 

sauce 74 

soup 119 

Tripe, to cook 48 

Veal, modes of cooking 50 

Vegetable food, digestibility 

of 77 

Vegetables, cooking of 115 

food value of 83 

withfruits 116 

mixed 116 

soups — 117 

Water 5 

Wheat 79 

analysis of 80 

flour, cooking of .89-104 

Welsh rarebit 62 



THE AMERICAN PUBLIC HEALTH 
ASSOCIATION, 

Organized in 1872 by a few eminent sanitarians, has grown 
in fourteen years to be the strongest and ablest association of 
its kind in America, if not in the world, and contains in its list 
of members, plrysicians, lawyers, clergymen, teachers, en- 
gineers, architects, and representatives of other trades and 
professions. Its influence has been felt in the legislative halls 
of the nation, as well as in every state and territory, for the 
amelioration of sickness and suffering, and the prolongation of 
human life. 

The fourteen large and elegant volumes it has published are 
iu themselves a monument to American hygiene, while their 
precepts and teachings have been felt through all ranks and 
grades of society, from the workshop to the mansion of the 
millionaire. No library is complete in its literature of sanita- 
tion without these works. 

Each member of the Association receives a copy of the 
annual volume free of expense. This work alone is worth 
more to any individual than the cost of membership. 

EXTRACT FROM CONSTITUTION, Art. III. 

The members of this Association shall be known as Active 
and Associate. The Executive Committee shall determine for 
which class a candidate shall be proposed. The Active mem- 
bers shall constitute the permanent body of the Association, 
subject to the provisions of the Constitution as to continuance 
in membership. They shall be selected with special reference 
to their acknowledged interest in or devotion to sanitary studies 
and allied sciences, and to the practical application of the 
same. The Associate members shall be elected with special 
reference to their general interest only in sanitary science, and 
shall have all tbe privileges and publications of the Associa- 
183 



184 American Public Health Association. 

tion, but shall not be entitled to vote. All members shall be 
elected as follows: 

Each candidate for admission shall first be proposed to the 
Executive Committee in writing (which may be done at any 
time), with a statement of the business or profession, and 
special qualifications, of the persons so proposed. On recom- 
mendation of a majority of the committee, and on receiving a 
vote of two thirds of the members present at a regular meeting, 
the candidate shall be declared duly elected a member of the 
Association. The annual fee of membership in either class, 
shall be five dollars. 



PUBLICATIONS OF THE AMERICAN 
PUBLIC HEALTH ASSOCIATION. 

PUBLIC HEALTH : Reports and Papers of the 
American Public Health Association. Volumes 1 to 14 
inclusive and one volume to be issued annually. These vol- 
umes contain the papers presented at the annual meetings of 
the Association, with the discussions upon each, and constitute 
large and very handsome works. Each member of the Asso- 
ciation is entitled to the annual volume. A small edition is 
also placed in the hands of the treasurer for sale. At the 
present time there are but few complete sets on hand, and 
these are being rapidly taken by libraries. 

DISINFECTION AND DISINFECTANTS: Their Ap- 
plication and Use in the Prevention and Treatment 
op Disease, and in Public and Private Sanitation, by 
the Committee on Disinfectants, appointed by the American 
Public Health Association. 

The following is the list of authors of this work: George M. 
Sternberg, M. D., Surgeon U. S. Army, and Fellow by 
Courtesy in the Johns Hopkins University; Joseph H. Ray- 
mond, M. D., Professor of Physiology and Sanitary Science* in 
Long Island College Hospital; Victor C. Vaughan, M. D., 
Ph. D., Professor of Physiological Chemistry in the Univer- 
sity of Michigan, and Member of the Michigan State Board of 
Health; Charles Smart, M. D., Surgeon U. S. Army, and 
member of the National Board of Health; George H. Rohe, 
M. D., Professor of Hygiene in the College of Physicians and 
Surgeons, Baltimore; Joseph Holt, M. D., President of the 
Louisiana State Board of Health; Samuel H. Durgin, M. D., 
health officer of Boston; and J. R. Duggan, M. D. 

The original experimental investigations made by these 
specialists are of great importance and value, and render this 
work the most complete and practical volume upon disinf ec- 
185 



186 American Public Health Association. 

tion and disinfectants yet published. A large amount of 
original work is devoted to the various micro-organisms, and 
in determining the value of many of the so-called disinfectants 
and germicides. The biological work was conducted mostly at 
the Johns Hopkins University under the supervision of Dr. 
Sternberg, and at the University of Michigan under Dr. 
Vaughan. Various apparatus used for disinfecting purposes, 
as well as the admirable quarantine system at New Orleans, 
are fully described and illustrated. The chapter on Pto- 
maines, by Dr. Vaughan, is of great value. 

The labors and investigations of these gentlemen extended 
over a period of three years, and involved no inconsiderable 
expense. 

The work consists of two hundred and sixty-five pages, with 
sixty-eight illustrations, printed upon very heavy paper made 
especially for this volume, and is elegantly bound in handsome 
English cloth. The price has been placed at the low figure of 
two dollars per volume. Sent postpaid on receipt of price. 



LOME PRIZE ESSAYS. 

These exceedingly valuable essays, written by authors of 
great ability, and selected as the best out of many received in 
competition, by committees of award who were selected by 
the American Public Health Association, the Conference of 
State Boards of Health, and the National Board of Health, and 
whose names alone guarantee the high character of the works, 
are being placed before the public at cost, through means 
that are being furnished the American Public Health Asso- 
ciation. 

No. i. Healthy Homes and Foods for the Working-Classes. 
By Prof. Victor C. Vaughan, M. D., Ann Arbor, Mich. 

Judges:— Dr. E. M. Moore, Pres. State Bd. of Health, Roch- 
ester, N. Y. ; Dr. C. W. Chancellor, Sec'y State Bd. of Health, 
Baltimore, Md.; Medical Director Albert L. Gihon, U. S. Navy, 
Washington, D. C.j Dr. J. H. Raymond, Health Commissioner, 
Brooklyn, N. Y.; Major Charles Smart, Surgeon U. S. A., 
Washington, D. C. 

SYNOPSIS OF CONTENTS. 

Location; the cellar; the walls; the floors; arrangement of 
rooms; the windows; heating and ventilation; water-supply; 
the disposal of waste; the surroundings; the care of the home; 
buying or renting a house; tenement-houses; foods and food 
stuffs; the nutritive value of foods; the economic value of 
foods. Animal foods; — general properties; methods of cook- 
ing meat; milk; butter; cheese. Vegetable foods; — cereals and 
grains; flour and meal; bread; pease and beans; potatoes; 
other vegetables; starches; sugars; fruits; nuts; vegetable oils; 
condiments; tea; coffee; chocolate. 
8vo paper, 62 pp. Price 10 cts. 

Same in English-German (alternate pages in German) .15. 
187 



188 Lomh Prize Essays. 

No. 2. The Sanitary Conditions and Necessities of School- 
Houses and School-Life. By D. F. Lincoln, M. D., 
Boston, Mass. 

Judges: — Hon. Erastus Brooks, LL. D., State Bd. of Health, 
New York; Dr. H. P. Walcott, State Bd. of Health, Lunacy, 
and Charity, Cambridge, Mass. ; Dr. Granville P. Conn, Pres. 
State Bd. of Health, Concord, N. H. : John Eaton, Commis- 
sioner of Education, Washington, D C; Col. George E. War- 
ing, Jr., C. E., Newport, R. I. 

Site: dampness, the cellar, contamination of soil and air, 
drainage, foundation walls, neighborhood, etc. Plan and ar- 
rangement of the building : architecture, doors, windows, 
recitation and class-rooms, stairways, lire-escapes, etc. Ven- 
tilation and heating: amount of fresh air and cubic space re- 
quired, introduction of fresh air, carbonic acid gas exhaled, 
dimensions of ventilating apparatus, size of flues, circulation 
of air in room, ventilating by steam power, " indirect" heat- 
ing, testing atmosphere of school-room, source of air-supply, 
water-closets, ventilating-stoves, open windows, ventilators, 
etc. Sewerage: bad air dangerous to health, waste-pipes, 
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disinfectants. Hygiene of the eye: nearsightedness, rules for 
using the eyes, location of windows, type used in school- 
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nervous system: competition for prizes, lack of exercise, dress. 
Contagious diseases in schools. Sanitary supervision. This 
work contains fifteen illustrations. 

8vo paper, 38 pages. Price, 5 cts. 

No. 3. Disinfection and Individual Prophylaxis against 
Infectious Diseases. By George M. Sternberg, M. D., 
Major and Surgeon U. S. A. 

Judges: — Dr. S. H. Durgin, Health Officer, Boston, Mass.; 
Dr. J. E. ReeveS, Sec'y State Bd. of Health, Wheeling, W. Va. ; 
Dr. Gustavas Devron, Pres. Aux. San. Assn., New Orleans, 



Lomb Prize Essays 189 

La.; Prof. Kichard McSherry, M. D., Baltimore, Md.; Prof. 
James L. Cabell, LL. D., University of Virginia, Va. 

Disinfection; groups of disinfectants. 

Group I. — 1. Fire; 2. Steam under pressure; 3. Boiling 
water; 4. Chloride of lime; 5. Liquor, soda cblorinatae; 6. 
Mercuric chloride. 

Group II. — 7. Dry beat; 8. Sulphur dioxide; 9. Carbolic 
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This essay is undoubtedly the best ever written in the 
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to be placed in the hands of every family. 

8vo paper, 40 pp. Price, 5 cts. 

Same in English-German (alternate pages in German) .10. 

No. 4. The Preventable Causes of Disease, Injury, and 
Death in American Manufactories and Workshops, 
and the Best Means and Appliances for Preventing 
and Avoiding Them. By George H. Ireland, Spring- 
field, Mass. 

Judges:— Dr. E. M. Hunt, Sec'y State Bd. of Health, Tren- 
ton, N. J. ; Dr. A. N. Bell, Editor Sanitarian, New York City; 
Major George M. Sternberg, Surgeon, U. S. A., Baltimore, 
Md.; Major John S. Billings, LL. D., U. S. A., Washington, 
D. C. ; Mr. W. P. Dunwoody, Secretary National Board of 
Health, "Washington, D. C. 

Construction of workshops; elevators; fire-escapes; sanitary 
condition; plumbing; ventilation; sunlight; heating; lighting; 
precaution against fires; dust in factories; ice supply; handling 



190 Lomh Prize Essays. 

heavy goods; machinery; saws and moulding machines; grind- 
stones; railroading; emergencies; contagious diseases; cleanli- 
ness; facilities for workmen, etc. 

8vo paper, 20 pages. Price, 5 cts. 

The four essays, in one volume of nearly two hundred large 
octavo pages, thoroughly indexed, bound in cloth, 50 cts. 

The same printed upon extra heavy paper made especially 
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$0.75. 






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